Tom Skinner

Don, and Tony, Thanks for the pictures. I was confused until I saw the whole description. So if I am correct. Don's set up is a Full Flow system, John's was a By-Pass. John can now determine which way he's going once he establishes if the Plug is in Place inside his Oil -Line inside his New Motor. And I can detemine what kind of system I have always had under the hood of my 1948 Chrysler C-38S 250.6 cu. in. Motor, by putting the hood up. I learned something today on the Forum from Don and Tony. Thats why I think this Forum is the Greatest, because guys like Don and Tony are always helpful. Thanks Don Coatney and Tony WestOZ. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

I'm so happy my hair is nappy. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Don, I rebuilt 2 carburetors in the last month and found that if the Idle Mixture Screw Tip is not Conical but worn or distorted (pointyish) or bent you will never achieve a smooth Idle. Look at some on this Site: http//old-carburetors.com/chrysler htm Otherwise I think the advise you just got on the prior thread is the best route. Tom

Dear Alan, You can find them on e bay from time to time. Average condition around $25 great condition $50-$60. Unfortunateley nothin comes cheap these days. Tom

Dear 47 Heaven, You can adjust that nut to tighten the armature, but only do it a wee bit. You could Monk up the armature - read bend it with to much adjustment then have to replace it. So be careful. I'll tell you how I stopped my leak after a New Rubber Gasket. I took Wax Paper and cut a piece a little larger than the Cowl Vent, then I caulked around the Cowl Vent Rubber liberally use clear or black caulk your choice, then I carefully laid the Wax Paper over the area then closed the vent snug tight. Let it cure a day or so then remove Wax paper and WALA no leaks. You can trim excess if need be and it is vitually water tight. Tom Skinner Huntersville NC

Dear p-24-1953, The trouble may be in the movement of the selector lever. The Transmission Fundamentals Service Reference Book Vol.2 No. 6 Copyright 1949 pages 20 and 21 tell how to check and adjust Linkage. "If the Nut on the Control Rod should loosen there may be to much travel in the Gearshift Lever" "When a Driver cannot get his transmisssion in gear, yet there is no gear clash indicating trouble inside the transmission the trouble may be in the selctor linkage"."Start the adjustment by putting the transmission in Nuetral". "Then check the adjusting nut on the front end of the selector rod". "If the Driver cannot get into reverse then the nut is to loose". "Tighten it until there is no play in the rod. Then back off a half of turn and tighten the lock nut". "Make sure you don't get the adjusting nut to tight, or you will make it impossible to get into second and high". Try the Imperial Web site under technical - look for pictures showing the procedure in the above mentioned Service Reference Book. I hope this fixes it. Tom Skinner

Tube Radio Music is Free. You can go on ebay and buy a Tube Consol Radio for the house. They sell counter top Tube Radios for about $20. They sound better, more mello and the music is free. Where are you going to find a better deal than that? Tom

Young Ed, Your right, I didn't think that all the way through. Tom

Dear Merle, I am aware of the Breather Vent, and mine is "Clear" or working properly. I also used sealer at the Yolk so I know for a Fact the Sleeve Groove is the Culprit. If anyone locates a Speedi-Sleeve please say where you got one. Thanks! I guess I'll just drip slowly until then. To get that Pinion Seal out you need a puller that will monk up my seal and I'll need a new Seal also so I'm not in a rush. Tom

Dear Bill, What is a Speedy Sleeve? I put a new Pinion Seal on my Chrysler and it still drips a dime spot here and there on the floor after a short drive. Is it a Sleeve that fits over the Pinion Shaft/Sleeve ? I noticed wear in one place from where my old Pinion Seal had rubbed a band around the Sleeve, and it is my guess that where it is driping through. Tom

Jim, I am just going by my experience here, but there are only 4 Bolts per each end of a Drive Shaft at the U-Joints, and 6 Bolts on a Transmission to Bell Housing, I almost forgot I had some Transmission Mounting Bolt (2) to the Frame. Isn't there alot less work here than removing a Front Clip? More Bolts - many more your way? I would think the Transmission Selenoids have to come off also. You may re-think this, you could bang everything up pretty good, not to mention have something slip and lose a finger or two trying to wrestle that whole thing out in one piece. I will wish you the best either way, but please be careful. If the Front Clip needs cleaning up and painting there will be plenty of room with the Motor and Trans out of there anyway. Tom

Herr Otto, Its OK to run it 15 degrees BTDC thats where I run mine. You don't have to disconnect the Vacumn advance to set the Timing on these old Flat Heads. Hook Up the Vacumn Gauge and Set it that way. Tom

Cpt. Fred, As already stated, keep an Eye out on Ebay they are about $55 S&H included. NAPA would just love to sell you one but you can do much better. They are not that heavy for Shipping purposes. Tom

Hobby Perfection at its Best. Only a True Artisan, could or would accept such a project almost unbelievable, but pictures don't lie. WOW!

Dear Michael, The Dorman 3/8" 24 x 16 x 3" Studs I got from Fasten All were too short. they need to be 3-1/2" Long. The two Long ones in the Exhaust Manifold must be that long. The other 11 for all other Threaded Studs are about 2-3/4" Long and can be bought at any Good Hardware Store. Vintage Power Wagon has a Kit with all Brass Nuts, Studs, Spacers, and Special Washers just for this. The Kit is $60. I bought a Kit from Andy Bernbaum and it was short one 3-1/2" Long Stud. I called him and asked for him to send one to me, he never did. I should have sent his Kit back but didn't. My fault for not "fixing" the problem. Do yourself a favor and go to VintagePowerWagons.com and buy yourself a Kit. Tom

Gentlemen, Mouse traps. What a novel Idea. I keep several set continously. One Christmas I got 4 little grey mice all in one day in my garage. None got in my car. You can buy a value pack of say 10 for $6. If its a messy "Kill" just dump the hole trap instead of prying the little sweeties out of there. The bloody messes make me think new mice won't approach a used trap so keep 20-30 traps on hand when the cool season comes and watch em "rollin up the score" "10-20-30 40-50 or more the Bloody Red Baron of Germany". Tom PS. Please no bleeding heart liberal comments about animal cruelty. They will Monk up your Car Man - That costs serious Money - WAKE UP.

Alexander, I had an old Timer named Melvin Jamison here in North Carolina that restored 3 - 1948 Chrysler Town and Country's that if you pull those manifolds get the faces machined before re-installing them or you'll just blow the gaskets back out otherwise. I questioned him further on that line and he said the heat warps the faces out of true by the time they need new gaskets so it is important to do this. I bought some used Manifolds and New Gaskets along with Andy B. Hardware kit to do mine but I'll get the faces machined/milled before I install now. Just passing along the knowledge of 2 Owner Mechanics of 5 total 1948 Chryslers and 75 years worth of mechanical experience combined advice. Tom Skinner Huntersville, North Carolina

Dear Claybill, If water pours into the engine as you say, then it sounds to me like you have a leaky Head Gasket. I wouldn't waste any more than 1 Oil Change to determine this without pulling the head. Try a Compression Test First. Low Readings - say 35-75 psi/Cylinder will tell the Tale. water in the Oil indicates a leaky Head Gasket. Good Readings say 80-100 psi per Cylinder will indicate a healthy Head gasket, and Compression enough to start her. An Engine needs good Compression, Spark and Fuel to start. A cheap quick check of Compression will tell the Story up front without wasting money on Oil, Etc. Head gaskets are @ $35. Tom

Great information! Thank You! I will ponder the job from underneath my car and decide my course of action. Are Bernbaums Shackle Kits and Silencers the way to go? Tom

Gents, I have a question about Rear Spring Covers. When removing the Shackles, to install new Shackle Bushings, Spring Silencers and Shocks would I first remove the Spring Covers before letting the Springs "Loose". otherwise wouldn't they extend and Bend the Covers? Also I see that I will have to remove the Rear Bumper and Brackets to remove the Shackle Nuts on the Frame to start the proceedure. Looks like a lot of work but all my Rubber Silencers and Bushings quite Dry Rotted. I hope someone knows about removing the Covers, because I don't want to bend/break them in the process. Tom

Steamer, Check out 1946, 1947, and 1948 Chrysler on ebay. I believe its on 1948 Chrysler. There are two for sale right now cheap. Tom

Dear Grey Beard, Have you tried hooking up a Vacumm Gauge and setting the Mixture Needle that way? Of course a little dirt in the Carb could cause trouble also. I have a Fuel Pump that works its bolts loose slowly - very slowly, when I tighten it back up with a 1/2" Socket and tighten the Carb Body screws all my troubles go away. These old Motors just need a Lot of TLC. Good luck running down your problem, I'm sure you'll find it. It could just be crappy gas from a dirty Gas Tank Vessel??? Tom

Stick a Socket in there I think its a 1/2" Drive in there and turn it counterclockwise it will come out. Trust me I drain my gas tank its a piece of cake. Tom

I got a sword for him - swinging.

Dear Claybill and Frankie, See we are good for something! I like to contribute by adding contacts for parts and such. It is the new guys that need us most. When we think we are to good to contribute helpful conversation, then the Forum will suffer, that is why I think so highly of Don Coatney and all of the Zen Warriors out there, they have the most experience and knowledge that is so well documented. We owe them a debt of gratitude. My hat is off to all that help others - Thank You for helping others! Tom