Tom Skinner

Frank and Alan, Thank you for all your help! I just installed a new Voltage Regulator and the Vibration moved from 14-20mph to 23-26 mph half as loud half as long - wierd. I'm sure the Kick Down HRM4101 is the wrong one now. Frank Thank You for offering me anothr HRM4102 you are a great help. I couldn't have done this repair without your help. Thanks Again! This Forum has been the best thing to happen to me in a long time. Tom

Dear Alan, My battery is a 6 Volt so as you say the Voltage regulator is probably over-charging as I know my VoltMeter is accurate its an old needle type. Set at DC and 10 Volt settings all my readings have been at 8 Volts when running and just over 6 Volts with the Engine turned off. You my friend are a genius. Voltage Regulator here I come! I'm still going to try to get a HRM4102 Kickdown though Tom

Frank, I sent an email to you about the HRM 4102 Switch, I just don't understand how after tripple checking everything why it would start making a noise after I changed out the Transmission Harness???? I got the harness from RIWire and everything wired up right to the directions first time right. I ran tests all along and can only figure its a wrong Kickdown Switch bad Voltage Regulator or Dirty Points at the Governor. I'll change out the Voltage Regulator and get back on later. Tom

Dear Frank and Alan, The plot Thickens. I had lunch then............... I tested the Kickdown at the BAT Terminal and it showed a steady 8 Volts. I Ran all Tests at the Relay and it passed all the tests. The Engine even stalled when a test light was hooked between the SOL and Ground and I Grounded the INT terminal. It now is either the Voltage Regulator or the Governor Points are dirty. I have an extra Voltage regulator shall I put it on first and see what happens? Tom

Dear Alan and Frank, Thanks I will have lunch and check for the six volts at the kickdown first. I'll get back on in a little while. Frank Thank You for your generous offer. I will get back with you on it a little later with more information. Thanks again!!!!!! Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Dear Alan, when you say undera load do you mean reveing the motor or driving it with a voltmeter and long leads on it taking the reading?

Frank, Yes it was on my car when I got it in 2007 the car had 52,245 original miles on it.

I guess my last stupid question would be where in the world would I find a Auto Lite HRM 4101 Kick Down Switch? At a Salvage yard? Tom

Dear Alan32433, and Frank M, Thank You very much for the information. I was ignorant as to what it was now I know its a kickdown switch. Frank Thank You for looking the part number up for me. Alan, it might be the Governor Points I'll go there next. and use a soft silver cleaner on a cloth to clean them. I have another Voltage regulator but after thumping around with my fingers I'm sure that noise is coming out of that switch. On another thought wouldn't the Ammeter show problems if it was the Voltage Regulator? It shows a steady slight charging as it should with no jumping needle in shifting patterns. On my last test drive I noticed downshifting was delayed - not consistent. Tom

Fellows, I forgot the preffix on that AutoLite Box it is HRM 4101 I believe it is a circuit breaker. If that is true some kind of electrical vibration is causing those points to dance loudly for a short period upon the upshift.

Dear Forum, A plea for electrical help - please - anyone - after 20 hours of playing with this. Its getting to be to much fun. I ran into a vibrating problem after I replaced my Transmission Harness. I'm working on a 1948 Chrysler Royal with Fluid Drive. First I thought I had put the Throttle Spring on wrong hence a Springy vibrating noise upon excelleration between 14-20 mph. I then replaced the Transmission Relay Switch even though it passed all electrical tests in the Service Manual. Same noise. I started to bump/thump around with my finger under the Transmission Relay Selenoid is another box this box is labeled Auto Lite 4101 It has a wire going to the ground on the Transmission Relay Seleniod Box. I assume its the circuit breaker there is where the vibrating points noise came from. I cleaned the points and re-installed - same vibrating points inside between 14-20mph. Does anyone know if this is related to the Governor Points not opening soon enough at the Transmission? The Governor passed electrical tests for upshift however I have not opened it to look inside. I am stumped. Has anyone had a problem like this before? If so please let me know how to fix it. The vibrating Points in that box only last for 5 mph mostly while its under a load not coasting down hill or level pulling. I am electrically challenged to that I admit.This is my second 1948 Chrysler and I have never had this problem before. Ammeter shows steady charging and car runs great otherwise. Shifting is smooth everything otherwise is normal. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

47Heaven, My bad, I thought maybe it was a spring vibration noise, not vibration throughout the whole car. Tom

Dear 47Heaven, Your problem is solved. Its your Throttle Spring vibrating on the Metal Spark Plug Tubes. Take your Spring Off and re-install Presto no more noise. I just did the same thing when I removed my wires and Painted everything up and re-installed my Sring backwards it made the same noise. Check that and lets hope thats all it is. Tom

Don, and Tony, Thanks for the pictures. I was confused until I saw the whole description. So if I am correct. Don's set up is a Full Flow system, John's was a By-Pass. John can now determine which way he's going once he establishes if the Plug is in Place inside his Oil -Line inside his New Motor. And I can detemine what kind of system I have always had under the hood of my 1948 Chrysler C-38S 250.6 cu. in. Motor, by putting the hood up. I learned something today on the Forum from Don and Tony. Thats why I think this Forum is the Greatest, because guys like Don and Tony are always helpful. Thanks Don Coatney and Tony WestOZ. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

I'm so happy my hair is nappy. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Don, I rebuilt 2 carburetors in the last month and found that if the Idle Mixture Screw Tip is not Conical but worn or distorted (pointyish) or bent you will never achieve a smooth Idle. Look at some on this Site: http//old-carburetors.com/chrysler htm Otherwise I think the advise you just got on the prior thread is the best route. Tom

Dear Alan, You can find them on e bay from time to time. Average condition around $25 great condition $50-$60. Unfortunateley nothin comes cheap these days. Tom

Dear 47 Heaven, You can adjust that nut to tighten the armature, but only do it a wee bit. You could Monk up the armature - read bend it with to much adjustment then have to replace it. So be careful. I'll tell you how I stopped my leak after a New Rubber Gasket. I took Wax Paper and cut a piece a little larger than the Cowl Vent, then I caulked around the Cowl Vent Rubber liberally use clear or black caulk your choice, then I carefully laid the Wax Paper over the area then closed the vent snug tight. Let it cure a day or so then remove Wax paper and WALA no leaks. You can trim excess if need be and it is vitually water tight. Tom Skinner Huntersville NC

Dear p-24-1953, The trouble may be in the movement of the selector lever. The Transmission Fundamentals Service Reference Book Vol.2 No. 6 Copyright 1949 pages 20 and 21 tell how to check and adjust Linkage. "If the Nut on the Control Rod should loosen there may be to much travel in the Gearshift Lever" "When a Driver cannot get his transmisssion in gear, yet there is no gear clash indicating trouble inside the transmission the trouble may be in the selctor linkage"."Start the adjustment by putting the transmission in Nuetral". "Then check the adjusting nut on the front end of the selector rod". "If the Driver cannot get into reverse then the nut is to loose". "Tighten it until there is no play in the rod. Then back off a half of turn and tighten the lock nut". "Make sure you don't get the adjusting nut to tight, or you will make it impossible to get into second and high". Try the Imperial Web site under technical - look for pictures showing the procedure in the above mentioned Service Reference Book. I hope this fixes it. Tom Skinner

Tube Radio Music is Free. You can go on ebay and buy a Tube Consol Radio for the house. They sell counter top Tube Radios for about $20. They sound better, more mello and the music is free. Where are you going to find a better deal than that? Tom

Young Ed, Your right, I didn't think that all the way through. Tom

Dear Merle, I am aware of the Breather Vent, and mine is "Clear" or working properly. I also used sealer at the Yolk so I know for a Fact the Sleeve Groove is the Culprit. If anyone locates a Speedi-Sleeve please say where you got one. Thanks! I guess I'll just drip slowly until then. To get that Pinion Seal out you need a puller that will monk up my seal and I'll need a new Seal also so I'm not in a rush. Tom

Dear Bill, What is a Speedy Sleeve? I put a new Pinion Seal on my Chrysler and it still drips a dime spot here and there on the floor after a short drive. Is it a Sleeve that fits over the Pinion Shaft/Sleeve ? I noticed wear in one place from where my old Pinion Seal had rubbed a band around the Sleeve, and it is my guess that where it is driping through. Tom

Jim, I am just going by my experience here, but there are only 4 Bolts per each end of a Drive Shaft at the U-Joints, and 6 Bolts on a Transmission to Bell Housing, I almost forgot I had some Transmission Mounting Bolt (2) to the Frame. Isn't there alot less work here than removing a Front Clip? More Bolts - many more your way? I would think the Transmission Selenoids have to come off also. You may re-think this, you could bang everything up pretty good, not to mention have something slip and lose a finger or two trying to wrestle that whole thing out in one piece. I will wish you the best either way, but please be careful. If the Front Clip needs cleaning up and painting there will be plenty of room with the Motor and Trans out of there anyway. Tom

Herr Otto, Its OK to run it 15 degrees BTDC thats where I run mine. You don't have to disconnect the Vacumn advance to set the Timing on these old Flat Heads. Hook Up the Vacumn Gauge and Set it that way. Tom