Tom Skinner

Timing First with a Timing Light. Last set Carb with a Vacumn Gauge. Guessing never seemed to work for me, you, however, may get lucky, but I never did tweaking it by ear, for what seemed like forever. Let the Tools do the work. There is great satisfaction in learning how to use them. Good Luck.

Good Idea John Reddie. Tom

You do not need to remove the Distributor to change the points or condenser Tom

Condenser Tests: To test the Condenser without removing it from the distributor, crank the engine until the fiber rubbing block of the points is midway between two lobes of the cam. Turn the vehicle ignition switch on and snap the contact points open and closed by hand: at the same time observe the point contacts for evidence of flash. No arcing across the points indicate a bad condenser, a slight flash indicates a normal condenser. Page 28. Tom

Is it backfiring out the Tailpipe or the Carburator? Backfiring: (1) As a general rule, backfiring into the muffler indicates too rich a fuel mixture and backfiring into the carburator, too lean a mixture. Make the nec- essary adjustments at the carburator. Automotive Trouble Shooting For WW2 Wheeled Vehicles, Volumne 1 by Robert V. Notman. Pages 9 &10. Use a Vacumm Gauge to set the mixture: 1. Warm up motor. 2. Hook up Vacumm Gauge at the Intake Manifold. 3. Set the mixture screw to obtain the highest reading in inches. 4. Turn the screw clockwise to lean, counterclockwise to enrich. This usually is between 19-21" A steady Hand indicates a healthy engine. Other things such as misfiring under a load indicate a weak secondary current in the ignition circuit, Check Plug Gap, Point Gap, Distributor Cap, and all Wire Connections. Page 9. Extremely late Ignition Timing will cause backfiring. Check Timing. Page 10. Tom Skinner

This is something I bet 99.9 percent of Americans don't know. Thanks for sharing this information I hope this gets out to the average American. We are in reality Hard Working and Competetive. Chrysler Employees have had to hump it ever since the "Board at Chrysler" sold them down the river to the Germans back in the nineties, and then milked the rest of Chrysler dry and dumped them. The German Companies did that to our Commercial Construction Companies back in the nineties also - JA Jones comes to mind, it fell to thier predatory Fat Cats sucking that Company dry and dumping it after they all retired. We have a lesson to learn here before someone sells out to GM and lets them complete Chrysler's demise. Chrysler should buck up and hold on. If Robert Nardelli is even a pinky on Lee Iacocca's right hand he will do the right thing and save Chrysler. Chrysler himself took no pay for four years during the depression, to aid in its solvency. Myth No. 7: Their union workers are lazy and overpaid Reality: Chrysler tied Toyota as the most productive automaker in North America this year, according to the Harbour Report on manufacturing, which measures the amount of work done per employee. Eight of the 10 most productive vehicle assembly plants in North America belong to Chrysler, Ford or GM. The oft-cited $70-an-hour wage and benefit figure for UAW workers inaccurately adds benefits that millions of retirees get to the pay of current workers, but divides the total only by current employees. That's like assuming you get your parents' retirement and Social Security benefits in addition to your own income. Hourly pay for assembly line workers tops out around $28; benefits add about $14. New hires at the Detroit Three get $14 an hour. There's no pension or health care when they retire, but benefits raise their total hourly compensation to $29 while they're working. UAW wages are now comparable with Toyota workers, according to a Free Press analysis.

Bob, Here in NC we have a Best Buy and you can get just about all the oldies stuff CD's, Cassettes, Etc, at a discount section. I get the 40's 50's 60's stuff around $2.99 - $4.99 a CD, stuff like Glen Miller, Tommy Dorsey, Irving Berlin, Little singing but much Big Band. There are also old folk song stuff like Billy Ed Wheeler, Red Sovine, and Johny Cash. We have a guy from NC Mountains named Mike Cross. He is good. The Fiftees are great listening to also, they have a large selection of discount 50's 60's stuff it seems the youngsters don't really listen to real music anymore, so its dirt cheap to buy now. Tom

Marty, Thanks! I thought that was the case but wanted to be sure. Tom

Gentlemen, Can I bother you with an Electrical Question: My fellow Chrysler Buddy has a 1947 Chrysler Windsor and I have a 1948 Chrysler Royal they are supposed to run a 35 Amp rated Generators. They are 6 Volt Positive Ground - 250.6 cu. Flat Heads all original. He got one that was 30 Amps and I got one thats 40 Amps. What is the ramifications of running a 30 Amp or 40 Amp instead of 35 Amp? Will the Voltage Regulator need adjusting or will it regulate itself around these small Amp differences? Tom

Allan, Maybe your new coil is bad. Try putting your old one on again and see what happens. Tom

Don is right cut out this crap! Tom

By the way I believe this Forum is for old Mopar enthusiasts not politcal crap thats circulating now. Don is right - back to old cars not fear and worry over things that don't exist. Tom

Captian Neon, Ditto, Politicians will never effect me driving my antique car. I will do it anyhow, and unless they catch me red handed many times over (because of all the namby pamby laws on our books) I shall probably live out my life doing so. I live in the country and catching me at 6:00 AM on a Saturday or Sunday morning will probably proove next to imposible. I choose to do it - all their laws be damned. It doesn't matter who is president, congressman, senator, mayor etc.. They do not effect my thinking, and I will never kow tow to a bunch of parasites such as these. There now I feel better, and if the rest of us antique car owners feel the same that would be a liberating feeling rather than feel like a handful of idiots control our lives. Tom

Does anbody know of a place to get Vacuum Advance Re-Built or Re-Diaphramed whichever is the correct terminology. I have 2 that need re-doing with a buddy that needs one. Thats for a 1947 or 1948 250.6 cu. in. 6 cylinder Chrysler Falthead C-38 on an IGS Distributor. Thanks for a lead in advance! Tom Skinner

Shawn, Call me when your ready, we can get your brakes going. My son's name is Chris. He said he would help us. Andy can be short/curt with you on the phone when ordering, just ignore him his bark is worse than his bite. He scares some of these forum guys around here. I guess some people are just a little too sensitive sometimes. Andy is just a big lug head and short with you if you don't know what your ordering. Get his Catalog first and then figure what you need - or just order. It might be smart to peek into the front drums at the wheel cylinders first and check their condition, they come off by hand without a puller. Tom

Shawn, Those new Wheel Cylinders are about $39.50 each with Andy Bernbaum Rebuilding Kits alot less @ $7 each for (6) Kits and $22 for (1) Master Cylinder Kit I reckon rebuilding at @ $71 S&H Included. I have done that before that it usually works unless there is alot of wear/scoring in the Cylinders. Yes I am exit 18 on 77 North. I am 52 so I can coach you alot on those Brakes. You will need help getting those Rear Drums off, I can help. Its a chore sometimes. Tom PS. I have a teenage son I'll bring him along. He is a Chrysler Mechanic already - we did my Clutch Job in February 2008. We may even drive my 1948 Chrysler if its early on a weekend day. I will need some heads up on when you want to do it as I am Sheetrocking a neighbors garage and Painting Bedrooms in my house now on weekends.

Shawn, Yeah! Your close. Do you have a Service Manual yet? They are on Ebay $29 or so. You probably need to rebuild the Wheel Cylinders all the way around or replace them. Repack your Bearings and change out your Dust Seals all at once. Then you will have brakes. They come in handy. Andy Berbaum (800)457-1250 MA. has it all. Ask him for his Parts Catalog Chrysler 1930-1962 I think he gets $4 for it. You are going to need a Drum - Hub Puller to get into those Rear Drums. They don't pull off by hand. I can drive over and let you use mine. It is an unusual looking one the Auto stores don't carry anymore. Is the car inside? Winter is coming, and that makes it easy to work on. Tom Huntersville NC (704) 912-3060

Rodney, I buy my Champion plugs at Carquest, OReileys, and NAPA in NC. They are the correct plug for my 1948 Chrysler. I have been using them for 35 years in all my vehicles and never had a problem with one single Champion Plug yet:) Tom

Shawn, I am restoring my 2nd 1948 Chrysler Royal Sedan, and live in Huntersville NC If your close and need a spare part or a little help now and then let me know. I know a thing or 2 about these cars. Tom Skinner Home in the evenings:)704) 912-3060

So I figure a 1948 Chrysler doesn't have anything there to fall out onto the garage floor. I can't see anything in the Master Parts Book for that area. Tom

Good Evening Gents, I want to replace my Gas Tank Filler Grommet, and Gas Tank Hose and Clamps. I have read several times that there is a filler needle/ball bearing or some such at the location of the hose between the Filler neck and Tank. I know theres a needle and seat at my Carburator. What if anything should I be looking for when I remove that hose. I don't want to drop anything into my gas tank. Also should I drain my gas tank and flush it as I go to catch any additional rotton Hose particles that might drop into the Tank as I do this. Tom Skinner

Dodgebomb, NAPA carries it, so does Tractor Supply. You have to ask NAPA to order it. Tractor Supply carries it in Gallon Jugs, @$15/Gal. Tom

Dear Gary, You can purchase these Reflectors new at Pep Boys, in the Reflector Area, or Bicycle Area for about $8 a pair. E - Bay also sells new Reflectors from time to time for $9-$25 a pair. So if you monk em up, have no fear they are available. Tom

Busy Coupe, I filled mine from empty when I bought it 2 years ago with 90wt. It leaked out, I filled it again. It held. The seal must have dried, and was wet/swollen back to size. No leaks since over a year ago. I checked it today - Walla - still full. My advise is to refill it a couple of times and observe. Tom

Tod is right. A good mechanic can accomplish a valve job in a weekend if seats are OK and parts are on hand Tom