Tom Skinner

New ones?

Whie Spyder, Fix the Heat Riser problem and you should be good to go. Another thing taking out the radiator and washing it out upside down will probably yield a cup full of gunk also. I'll bet you have then found your problem. Good Luck! Tom

Good one Don! All of Steele's Rubber has fit my 1948 Chrysler very well. That being said when I bought my Front Windshield and Rear Window Rubber at their Steele Car shows for 10% off the Sales Person (It was a She) never told me I needed the 3M Cleaner the 3M Black Sealer, or the 3M Clear Sealer to do the Install. So I had to order another $70 worth of stuff and pay another $15 S&H. OK you might say I should have known, but I say if you are buying a new leather belt, and go to pay with a worn out leather wallet, a smart salesperson would also show you some new leather wallets. In other words Steele's Sales People are on Auto-Pilot - they don't ask questions, they just fill orders, and seem to stare out into space. If I had someone working for me like that, I would find new help. Service in general sucks nowadays, but even more so when stupid is - as stupid does - doesn't really serve a customer anymore. L.O.L. Other than that No Runs No Leaks No Errors. Tom

Welcome to the p15-d24, I hope when you go bowling and get a strike. You are yelling Wilma.Yabba Dabba Dooooo L.O.L. Nice Coupe! Stay in touch. Good Luck!

You will be broke if you don't take the bull by the horns and start working on your own car. It ain't rocket science. Pay this one, pay that one. The Mopar Car is only worth so much. Look my friend in simple terms you own a "mechanics car". Either become one, or go broke paying one The Shop - you better become the Shop. Good Luck.

Steele makes everything right on their campus. Salt of the earth people. AMERICANS MAKING AMERICAN PRODUCTS. No chinese. Real American Jobs - no crap from china They cost more because the Country folk are making the rubber parts are worth more. Tom

Steele Rubber, Denver, North Carolina

I have been carrying an extra fuel pump in my 1948 Chrysler's since 1974. Flat Heads love em. I took Mary Ellen Rosk_ _ out to a Drive in Movie on Route 46 in Clifton NJ one night around March 1975, She was from a good Polish Catholic family that lived in Hasbrook Heights NJ.her Dad had told me to have her home by midnight, (He was a Machinist) and I thought he was serious so at midnight she was home. when I left her street ready to go under the George Washington Bridge and get back onto Rout 46 to go home my engine died. It was about freezing by then and a slow rain had just started. I took off my coat (because I had Satin Seat Covers) and laid under that 250.6 and changed out that fuel pump (in the pitch black) in 15 minutes. Tore off my wet shirt and put my leather jacket back on and got in and fired her right up. Man I was sure glad those old Chrysler's had killer heaters, I stopped shuddering (teeth chattering) in about 3 or 4 minutes. Always, Always, carry a spare fuel pump in your old Mopar Flat Heads. Back then I believe they were about $30, now I buy extras for about $68 on ebay. Boy Life sure was fun when we were 19 years old, I still wonder about Mary Ellen from time to time, she would never let me past 3rd base, but we never saw too much of the movie, "we were young but we were getting our share working on the night moves" If I were you I would find another mechanic $550 ain't exactly a fair price for a fuel pump change out.

You know with 68 other Ideas, I doubt you will ever really know what your ticking noise is, however, sometimes the fuel pump ticks against the camshaft as well. There is one more theory to go by. Are your Valves adjusted properly?

Clean oil????

If it blows out the vent on the top of the axle, it will trickle down to the bottom of the pumpkin also and appear on the floor beneath the pumpkin.

Yes, correct. A couple of small rivets.

Yes, of course. I should have said because the Yolk has worn down - with a potential groove in it. Then a new pinion seal will not suffice. The tiny groove is where it is leaking. He will need to install a sleeve on the yolk to return the diameter of the yolk to original condition, thus the seal will function again.

Yolk usually has a small groove in it and requires a sleeve to maintain a good seal.

A washer and a nut

There is a blow off relief valve on the top of the Axle on the driver's side. After a warm drive it could expand and leak out of there and drip down to the floor???

Rebuild a Carburator or two, you'll agree that gas headache ain't worth it.

New Tanks are about $350 (nos replica tanks) on ebay 46-48 Chrysler,DeSoto, Plymouth, Dodge. Why mess with a messy mess? Replace it. I would compare this to spending $30 on a headlight kit and spending 3 hours labor to polish the blur out of the lenses instead of spending say $50 for new headlights and replacing them in 15 minutes. It isn't worth the headaches that messing with a smelly old rotton gas tank would give you. Those Companies charge that much to re-line your tank, why not (now that they replicate them) have new?

In the old days, mechanics would run kerosene mixed with 10wt in the tranny for a short run (say 20-30 miles) to flush out the system. Then re-fill with 10wt non-detergent. I believe I read this in a Gus' Garage story a long time ago as well.

Tractor Supply has 10w oil - non detergent for the tranny, and hydraulic ISO23 for the fluid drive Coupler as well. That is if there is The Tractor Supply Store in PA??

These old flat heads would run on piss. I once dropped a small screw down the throat of my 1948 Chrysler while it was running and it just passed it out the exhaust. Gasoline was 77 -78 octane in 1948. While it is 87 now, the thing to do is find your sweet spot (timing wise) about 6 degrees advanced to accomodate the newer fuel. The Valves - if adjusted properly, by yourself - so you know they are done right shouldn't have any trouble. The Marvel Mystery Oil is good if you like it, but if you run out of gas and have been drinking White lightning pissing in your gas tank would probably get you home also. With out burning a valve or valve seat along the way L.O.L. "If drinking don't kill me, her memory will, with the blood from my body you could start your own still" - George Jones

My buddy just calls my transmission a bastard tranny, or a clunkamatic. L.O.L. It just clicks softly on the upshifts though. I have known him for 35 years and he is referring to my first 1948 Chrysler Royal, not the one I own now. Tom

Donald, Were you in the right T.D.C. and 7:00 Rotor pointing? That is to say, were you really at T.D.C.? A four stroke engine appears to be correct twice with No.#1 at T.D.C. and Rotor at @ 7:00 (Check to see if the Damper Mark is at Zero - or 2 Deg B.T.D.C. when approaching TDC) Have you moved or replace any wires? Perhaps misplaced one in the Ditributor Cap? Try again, you may find you were off. The Static Timing thing usually gets your engine started. Usually a retarded Timing Setting causes Backfiring out the Carb, a too advanced timing setting backfires out of the tail pipe. Good Luck! Tom

Mike, Yeah, Ebay is going off the Charts price-wise lately. Try D.V.A.P., (Desert Valley Auto Parts) in Arizona. Or go without a clock. Also sometimes you can ask the e-bayer if they will take an offer - instead of some cooked up amount they have posted. I have many times haggled a part down to the buy-able - affordable for me zone, and purchased it from them. Most of the time you have to stay within 15-25% of their price for them to accept an offer. (Example: Clock Lists at $100 - offer $79 w S&H - they go for it). Try to think outside the box, complement them on their listing be respectful in your approach - it works most of the time. These guys need the money as much as you need the part but they won't be taken advantage of either. Some have a Flee Market mentality. Tom

I know this sounds crazy. Wooden Clothes Pins work! The pincher kind - with the spring. L.O.L. Also when real hot - say upper 90's - floor the gas pedal to clear the carb for real hot starts.