Tom Skinner

Yes, correct. A couple of small rivets.

Yes, of course. I should have said because the Yolk has worn down - with a potential groove in it. Then a new pinion seal will not suffice. The tiny groove is where it is leaking. He will need to install a sleeve on the yolk to return the diameter of the yolk to original condition, thus the seal will function again.

Yolk usually has a small groove in it and requires a sleeve to maintain a good seal.

A washer and a nut

There is a blow off relief valve on the top of the Axle on the driver's side. After a warm drive it could expand and leak out of there and drip down to the floor???

Rebuild a Carburator or two, you'll agree that gas headache ain't worth it.

New Tanks are about $350 (nos replica tanks) on ebay 46-48 Chrysler,DeSoto, Plymouth, Dodge. Why mess with a messy mess? Replace it. I would compare this to spending $30 on a headlight kit and spending 3 hours labor to polish the blur out of the lenses instead of spending say $50 for new headlights and replacing them in 15 minutes. It isn't worth the headaches that messing with a smelly old rotton gas tank would give you. Those Companies charge that much to re-line your tank, why not (now that they replicate them) have new?

In the old days, mechanics would run kerosene mixed with 10wt in the tranny for a short run (say 20-30 miles) to flush out the system. Then re-fill with 10wt non-detergent. I believe I read this in a Gus' Garage story a long time ago as well.

Tractor Supply has 10w oil - non detergent for the tranny, and hydraulic ISO23 for the fluid drive Coupler as well. That is if there is The Tractor Supply Store in PA??

These old flat heads would run on piss. I once dropped a small screw down the throat of my 1948 Chrysler while it was running and it just passed it out the exhaust. Gasoline was 77 -78 octane in 1948. While it is 87 now, the thing to do is find your sweet spot (timing wise) about 6 degrees advanced to accomodate the newer fuel. The Valves - if adjusted properly, by yourself - so you know they are done right shouldn't have any trouble. The Marvel Mystery Oil is good if you like it, but if you run out of gas and have been drinking White lightning pissing in your gas tank would probably get you home also. With out burning a valve or valve seat along the way L.O.L. "If drinking don't kill me, her memory will, with the blood from my body you could start your own still" - George Jones

My buddy just calls my transmission a bastard tranny, or a clunkamatic. L.O.L. It just clicks softly on the upshifts though. I have known him for 35 years and he is referring to my first 1948 Chrysler Royal, not the one I own now. Tom

Donald, Were you in the right T.D.C. and 7:00 Rotor pointing? That is to say, were you really at T.D.C.? A four stroke engine appears to be correct twice with No.#1 at T.D.C. and Rotor at @ 7:00 (Check to see if the Damper Mark is at Zero - or 2 Deg B.T.D.C. when approaching TDC) Have you moved or replace any wires? Perhaps misplaced one in the Ditributor Cap? Try again, you may find you were off. The Static Timing thing usually gets your engine started. Usually a retarded Timing Setting causes Backfiring out the Carb, a too advanced timing setting backfires out of the tail pipe. Good Luck! Tom

Mike, Yeah, Ebay is going off the Charts price-wise lately. Try D.V.A.P., (Desert Valley Auto Parts) in Arizona. Or go without a clock. Also sometimes you can ask the e-bayer if they will take an offer - instead of some cooked up amount they have posted. I have many times haggled a part down to the buy-able - affordable for me zone, and purchased it from them. Most of the time you have to stay within 15-25% of their price for them to accept an offer. (Example: Clock Lists at $100 - offer $79 w S&H - they go for it). Try to think outside the box, complement them on their listing be respectful in your approach - it works most of the time. These guys need the money as much as you need the part but they won't be taken advantage of either. Some have a Flee Market mentality. Tom

I know this sounds crazy. Wooden Clothes Pins work! The pincher kind - with the spring. L.O.L. Also when real hot - say upper 90's - floor the gas pedal to clear the carb for real hot starts.

Amen, Don is Right! My fondest memories are re-building Chrysler Flathead's back as far as 1974. Got Manual GO FOR IT! IT IS AN EXPERIENCE TO LIVE FOR! Go slow use good Tools (measuring, etc). You would probably do it for a Third of that quoted cost. Good Luck! Tom

Dodgeb4ya, Beautiful job you have going there! Tom

Gents, My question also is as Lloyd's above. Obviously PB Blaster, days before to remove it, then more PB to loosen it away. When putting back on maybe Teflon Tape on the Threads or Anti Seize compound on the Threads? I think if it is going to break - sometimes it is going to break - in other words - maybe it was just ready to go.

I know our Forum is primarily for repairs, however, Classic Car Magazine has two great article's on this Imperial now, that is why I was sharing it. Sometimes, a little inspiration helps a hobby also.

Here it is after they got it running out of an old garage on Long Island https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=10&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CEwQtwIwCWoVChMI66LtrfHVxgIVyls-Ch3ajwPI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DCH-LE398Zi0&ei=uYSiVaviLcq3-QHan47ADA&usg=AFQjCNEzw81xZA0dr30BmXgelCFh088trw&sig2=VlY-ZDurBtB8IhpS2fiCLA

Here is the Link for the 1937 Imperial Walter Chrysler had built for Della in 1937. If this doesn't work just google Mrs. Chrysler's Chrysler. Or You Tube it. Cutomized Imperial with lots of fancy extras. Interesting!

Napa on line ships to your address

I used new, but kept the old and cleaned them up. Maybe I'll change them out again some day.

NAPA @ $30

Transmission Selenoid Switch Fuse Good? Connections Clean and Tight? Wires to and from Selenoid Switch to, Transmission Governor, Interuptor Switch, etc. Good Transmission Fluid Full and Clean? (Pressure in Transmission must reach about 40/PSI for shifting to occur) Engine Idle Low? (Around 450-500/RPM) Service Manual Trouble Shoot Guide will uncover the problem. Follow the Directions down the List one by one and Test each Item until you prevail. Sometimes Governor Points are Dirty, slow Shifting as well. Good Luck! Tom

popped, not pooped, or peeped L.O.L.