Alshere59

Here is the web site. http://www.oldtimeparts.com/index.htm

Depending on your your comfort zone this worked on my radio to bring it back to life. Well that and one tube. http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=127412 http://www.skywaves.ar88.net/commrx/Maintenance/Waking%20Up.doc.pdf

http://www.scambook.com/report/view/127034/Gary-Hamby-Complaint-127034-for-$0.00 Seems to be a few engineers off shore. Different name same email.

My Mopar Model 803 had the same problem. It was a bad tube. Research each tube and find the one that is for the amplifier. In my case it was this one 6C4 Power Amplifier. It cost about 4 dollars US. So it is worth a try.

http://www.radiosforoldcars.com/vibrators.htm Try this site

I have a P20 and get around 20 gallons US with an overdrive on the highway 16 around town. That seems like pretty low mileage, The UK gallon is a bit more than a US. 1 gal(UK) = 1.20094 gal(US Liq) What gear ratio are you running? I would think your sunvisor isn't helping much either but it looks really nice on your New Yorker.

Sounds like a great trip but a little more information may be needed as there are a lot of things that come into play and you want to look at the bigger picture. All of these can play a role. Carbon, too high of compression for the octane fuel being used, too low of octane fuel for the compression, bad fuel/water in fuel, engine running too hot, inlet air into engine too hot, timing too advanced, air/fuel ratio too lean, lugging the engine around (driving up hills in 5th gear), spark plug heat range too hot for the compression. So what is your gear ratio on your rear end? Overdrive? Maybe it was just to steep of a hill. Some mountains along that route from Iowa IIRC. What does your plugs look like? Lean by chance or to hot of a range. Lots of guides to help reading spark plugs on the internet if needed. What was your engine temps? Running a 180 degree thermostat? You mentioned an engine rebuild, did you shave the head? Raise the compression. These older engines were built for a very low octane gas back then. I wouldn't think stock timing would cause your problems. Moose a member of this forum has a distributer machine if you think that may be needed. Also here is a long thread on timing and and old flatheads. http://olskoolrodz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47895 Anyway not trying to add to your to do list but just suggesting there are a lot of things to consider in addition to some of the suggestions already posted.. Hope it helps. Al

Excellent work. This should get moved over to the tech archives. Maybe with a scan of your bracket in pdf format.

Interesting thread. FWIW I would think that starting with the farthest wheel would have the brake return springs forcing the old fluid (and any air) midpoint into the line as soon as the bleeder was opened. Like Rusty and others a pressure bleeder is the way to go if possible. It is not only faster but I think it cuts down on agitating (for lack of a better word) the fluid and any air. Thinking back, I bled my fronts first as my lines are connected at the master cylinder with that line at the top of the plug to get rid of air in my master cylinder.

As stated the hot side can not be connected to ground. The electrical path has to flow as shown in this pic. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Car_ignition_system.svg If you have it right you should be getting spark at the plugs. Are you? A number of ways to check this the simplest is with a screw driver in you spark plug boot and holding the shaft of the screw driver next to the block and watching. Or you can buy a cheap tester that goes in line like this if you are like me and have difficulty seeing it without getting shocked while using the screw driver. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20610-Inline-Spark-Tester/dp/B0002STSC6 If you have spark and since you mentioned the engine was rebuilt, have you verified number one cylinder is at top dead center on the compression stroke with your rotor pointing at the number 1 spark plug wire? If it wasn't indexed or was off by a tooth or so when it was rebuilt it may not be where the manual shows it. To check. Take the plug out of number one cylinder and put your thumb over the hole. Turn the engine over until you feel the compression of the engine. I try to turn it manually with wrench on the crankshaft nut or by pulling the on the fan once i start to feel the compression. This gives you better control while lining up your timing marks to TDC without going past the marks. NOTE: Remove all of the plugs to make it easier to turn if pulling on the fan and that also ensures has zero chance of firing. Then once the timing marks are lined up look at the distributer with the cap removed. Is the rotor pointing at number 1 plug? It should be at the 7 O'Clock position but it may not if the oil pump wasn't indexed. (Research indexing the oil pump for how to change it.) It will work at any position as long as you line up the rotor with the wire you have going to the number 1 plug so your choice just remember when reading the manuals for our cars that it is different. At any rate move your spark plug wires around or turn your distributer until the rotor is pointing directly at the wire leading to number one plug. Check your firing order then put it back together. Verify firing order again and see if it starts.

Thanks I will give it a shot.

Thanks you are correct on the impedance. So just add a tap off of the case speaker with a fader? The other wire I assume would be the ground.

I would say yes. If it is hooked up backward it reads in reverse so you should be good. Look at step 4. http://www.egauges.com/Cla_Inst.asp?CP=Amp.htm

So any members of your car club on this forum??? You could just tell them it's marking its territory.

So I have my Mopar 803 radio working. Looking at the photofact schematic it shows a part listed for speaker two and the rear package shelf has an opening for a 6x9. It doesn't show how two connect it? I assume it is parallel with speaker one. It only has a single wire so the other is ground??? Is it that simple? Al

Darren Your Dizzy is not 180 out. They have two adjustments so the other pic is probably on another spark plug tower on the cap. If it is ackward just move each wire in turn to the next tower. keeping the firing order right. Mine as it is now. You will need to do your timing again after doing this. Al

There are probably more, I just meant I did not know what they are.

I believe you will find the disk drum combo is shown in this web site. Look at number 11. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-brake-parts/grand-cherokee-zj/index.htm It is in fact a parking brake drum and disc for driving. I have the jeep rear end in mine so I had some idea on what to search for. (It also has the same lug pattern) If there is another application that acts in concert with the disc I am not aware of it. Al

Well sounds like a project that will take a lot of work. If you want I can take all those problems off your hands...