Alshere59

Born in 1959 the youngest of 7 and my parents were born in the early 20's. My Dad was on a Destroyer during WWII in the Pacific theater. I even have an Uncle that is still alive that worked a landing craft during the Normandy invasion. 3 trips to the Beach on D day. I only bring this up because as I read the posts I have to wonder if coming through the depression and WWII instilled a spirit and values that we may never know. I think I will drive the old Plymouth over to Illinois and visit. A slower time where people beat natural selection and adversity with common sense and hard work instead of depending warning labels and lawyers. Yea I like to think I could do that.

You can do it with it in the car. Remember it has a spring so back it out easy as the parts at the other end of the spring need to stay together. The gasket may need to be replaced as well. You may want to think about a 2 pound residual valve for the line going to the front.

Did you get your generator sorted out? If not you can stay over for the Jamboree I read about while looking for the local paper. I was trying to see if they had your adventure listed. Join us for the 55th Muskrat Jamboree in Inuvik, Northwest Territories on March 30 – April 2, 2012 http://inuvik.ca/special-events/muskrat-jamboree/

Great reading. I drove the Alaska highway 4 years ago heading to Portland, Maine and was wondering how are you doing finding gas stations etc open. As I remember allot of them would close for winter and open in the spring along most of that route. It was trip with a lot of great scenery but we did have to plan our stops carefully. We bought a book called the Milepost that told you where and when gas stations were available that made our planning a lot easier and was considered a must have for the military in Anchorage that made the drive. I would think you have better information living there and will be as as successful as this guy was. One of my favorite pictures from that trip. Good luck on your adventure and I am looking forward to reading more. http://milepost.com/

I get the kid every time. Well three trips. May have to try it again.

What salvage yard are you heading to if you don't mind sharing? If your headed down to Dayton, Starks is the only one that comes to mind and they like their parts alot and are priced accordingly. I was kinda hoping there may be another one somewhere close that didn't have as much sentimental value.

Hey Dan welcome to the forum. I like your work. http://www.hemmings.com/hcc/stories/2009/08/01/hmn_feature10.html http://www.autoexpressionist.com/ I guess this is my way of saying the search feature on the forum is your friend. With that you get these links and my answer. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=29779&highlight=narrow+pulley Now for your question. The two piece pulley are hit and miss it seems. I am assuming you mean a Harmonic balancer with a pulley versus just the pulley. I have two P20 motors both are narrow pulleys only one has a harmonic balancer attached and it can not be removed separately that I remember. You can try posting in the parts wanted section of the forum. I can send just the narrow pulley if you want just PM me. The link says you may be able to do it but I do not know that. Al

Here is some info to help with your vacuum gauge readings. http://moodle.student.cnwl.ac.uk/moodledata_shared/cdx%20etextbook/dswmedia/toolsEquip/hpt/measuring/vacgauge.html http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/vac/uum.htm Or you can use babelfish to translate to German http://babelfish.yahoo.com/translate_url?doit=done&tt=url&intl=1&fr=bf-home&trurl=http%3A%2F%2Fmoodle.student.cnwl.ac.uk%2Fmoodledata_shared%2Fcdx%2520etextbook%2Fdswmedia%2FtoolsEquip%2Fhpt%2Fmeasuring%2Fvacgauge.html&lp=en_de&btnTrUrl=Translate

I would think so just connect to the battery terminal not the Field.

The reflectors are Bosch and they were bought on epay. Other company's make them so they are easy to find. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bosch-H4-Headlights-Upgrade-your-Sealed-Beams-PAIR-/120856046586?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1c2394ebfa If you want they even make them with turn signals mounted in them. You can get Halogen bulbs in 12 or 6 volt that plug into the existing wiring harness so that is easy. You will need to add relays as the halogens draw more amps and your switch will get pretty hot. Here is a link, its for an OT car but still valid for ours. Just scroll to the bottom for an excellent schematic. http://www.mgexperience.net/article/mgb/headlight_relays_revb.pdf Greg The beam pattern on the original H4 is nice in that it covers a bit more of the ground. You can see it to some extent in the pic. The grass is visable in the others just not as much. They were 25 foot from the fence or what the alignment distance is when i took the pics.

Tim the H4's are DOT certified.

The headlight beams after replacing the European lens with the bulls eye lens. The last is the Bullseye lens on the Bosche European reflector. I like the way the beam comes out with the bullseye lens it has a large area with a clean cut on the top. The sealed beam is bright but narrow. So overall very happy with the change All 6 volts but easy to change to 12. Al

From what I have read in another thread it only gets oil when the cam spins and the hole lines up. So more of a quick spuirt every rotation.

My two cents which is all it is worth. After looking at all of your posts as I was looking for information as to your location. The easiest route and cheapest. Swap out the speed goodies IE: Head dual carb's and split exhaust and lose the fluid drive. A bird in the hand so to speak in regards to your current engine. I would keep the fluid drive other than the concerns about the dual pot mc and also the shifting you mentioned in another thread. Both of which I can offer no advice on. George Asche would have good input and he is in Pennsylvania. (LOCATION). Drive shaft may be an issue for length. Looking at your other posts I would give him a call regardless of location though. He can answer your shifting issue and the proper lube for the overdrive, swapping the input shaft etc etc. Anyway sounds like you are doing your research so make the best choice on where that leads you. I was just think a 230 running well would run better with the speed parts you mentioned. Although without checking the stroke do you really know it is a 218 and how it runs and so on. So a definite maybe from me. Then again what is two cents worth in todays economy. Al

Well I have to agree with Young Ed and Aero. I have looked at two of these and both appear to be a reverse flare but other than that unmolested. So some restriction but not pinched etc with pliers. My pic looks the same as Aero's. Al

Just thought I would post some pics of my bullseye headlights being changed to new reflectors with a mount for a Halogen bulb fits 6 or 12 volt. I bought some Bosh headlights and broke the lenses out of them. Then you just clean the silicon off. Still need the bulbs and relays as they are not here yet. I did end up cracking one prying the metal from around the edge. So the next one and a replacement went into a mild acid solution and did the reverse of the Rust Removal using Electrolysis. So my headlight was connected to the positive lead on my 6 volt battery. Also I used some muriatic acid I had left over from the pool that I diluted with water. So 2 thirds water 1 third acid. Everything done outside. Total time to eat away the lip holding the glass was about 5 hours. I had a baking soda bath waiting for the headlight after it came out of the bath. Then used the rest to neutralize the acid. So anyway that where I am currently If you have never heard of the rust removal a link is below. I just reversed the connections so that it ate away my headlight. The electricity goes mostly line of site so I had a big washer right in front of the center of the lense. http://antique-engines.dickerson-design.com/electrol.asp

Well this one works for me. With the insane prices some of these parts are going for I never bid early anymore. It just adds to the price. http://www.jbidwatcher.com/

If nothing else there is this one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/140577353906?_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649&item=140577353906&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&vxp=mtr

I am not the expert but I did find this. Gives the proper amount of stretch to get the proper amount of torque. Page 37 in the 5th paragraph http://video.arp-bolts.com/catalog/ARPCatalog.pdf So how does it help with rusting solid?

I have always thought it was for stretch and torque. Never heard of it helping with rust.

To a speedy recovery. You cant keep a good man down. So know that you and your wife are in my thoughts.

Well here is a table to go with it. http://maine.craigslist.org/clt/2742905907.html

I have seen a few like that. All have been a Tach and hour meter like these. http://www.stewartwarner.com/Catalog/tach338m.html http://www.downwindmarine.com/Tachometer-Hour-Meter-Stewart-Warner-82622-12V-p-76089.html I wouldn't think you could make an odometer work in a car driven by the tach . When you shifted it would generate errors as to miles as it has no way to adjust for the tranny gears. Al

It looks like that is the what you have. From the web. Gear Ratio and Sure-Grip Identification: Through 1965, the factory ratio was stamped on the identification boss, followed by an 'S' if it had a Sure Grip. After 1965, a tag was affixed under one of the carrier mounting nuts to identify the ratio. If it had a Sure Grip, an additional Sure Grip lube tag was sometimes added. Later year versions sometimes had the filler plug painted orange. http://www.dippy.org/forum2/index.php?topic=84.0