Alshere59

BobT I am not sure if it is a stock item. I am beginning to think it is not. Turning it won't get me there I don't think. Maybe a box running to a freh air intake kit.

Thanks I thought I had read everything on his site but I guess not. Dezeldoc Do you have a pic by chance? I would like to see the linkage as well.

Thanks for the info. I can go up at least.

I have a 50 Plymouth and am using 2 BB carbs with a 4 inch diameter air cleaner. Looking at it after I rebuilt the spare carb the heater may be in the way. Anyone have this running? The Fenton is 7 1/2 inches center to center. Not sure what the Offies etc are? Anyway thoughts? I think I will have 1/8th inch clearance using the air cleaner shown after the install. Its the smallest I found that fit the carb. Al

Actually no I didnt see it was the truck side. Had a few try's before it took. The Fenton is standard heating. So exhaust gas heating unless a split exhaust. Now how to move it over.

I have a 50 Plymouth and am using 2 BB carbs with a 4 inch diameter air cleaner. Looking at it after I rebuilt the spare carb the heater may be in the way. Anyone have this running? The Fenton is 7 1/2 inches center to center. Not sure what the Offies etc are? Anyway thoughts? I think I will have 1/8th inch clearance using the air cleaner shown after the install. Its the smallest I found that fit the carb. Al Moved to the car side

I would say a good guess. Try putting a return spring on it. Cables do alright pulling but not as great pushing. My two cents

It looks riveted. Why not drill them out and get a long bolt (head cut off) or piece of all thread and a propane torch. Heat it up and pound it flat on one end then reattach. You get to play Blacksmith old school style.

Thanks Daddyo. I looked at that as well. I was hoping it was low.

Thanks Greg g The vaccum gauge sounds like the way to go. Haven't used one in years as most of my recent cars are newesh. Either way your time is apreciated. I will revisit the compression tester also but that sounds like a burned exhaust. Not a total nube but not the sharpest crayon either. The OD still has me puzzled a bit. From reading it looks like the R7 kicks in at 25 miles an hour. Is that only in third? I guess that question will be answered fairly soon. Waiting on clutch pressure plate etc as I only want to do it once. The 230 was so I could keep driving the original engine while rebuilding the other. So I will keep looking. Thanks again. Al

First car 1950 Plymouth Special deluxe 218 three in the tree. First I'm buying a rebuilt R7 overdrive. What is the biggest difference between that and an R10. Both seem to do the same function. Reliability/flexability/combination?? Second is engine related. My 218 has about 45-50 psi on the oil pressure guage for the first few minutes. Then drops to 20 psi it will build back up on long slow runs. This is a recent change it used to stay at 45-50 psi. Oil pump? Engine rebuild? Symptoms: I have noticed blue smoke when useing the engine braking. The compression test shows fine with 98 +- 2 psi on all but one cylinder 5 shows a drop of 15 psi. Also has an very occasional backfire through carb during warm up. So burnt exhaust valve? Anyway If anyone can shed any light please let me know. I am looking for a 230 to rebuild but was hoping my current engine would last. Not rich by any means. May do a valve job on existing and look for the 230. Im in Ohio if any one knows of one available. Thanks in advance for any advice or opinions. Al

Download the catalog and type in your distributor as thats what your matching. And as said already look for the code for positive ground.

I have one for the cost of shipping and a cup of coffee. Give me a call at 618-616-2390