Alshere59

Sounds like you have already been there but just in case. http://mopar.pairserver.com/p15d24ph_forum/index.php?/files/file/29-over-drive-solenoid-information/

Are you running a tach? Sounds odd but in second if you run up to 35 mph then let off the gas do you see a decreased rpm? I let my brother drive mine and he didn't feel it engage. Wild guess but it is all I can think of. If you have a tach dwell meter hook that up and see if the RPM drops. This what is shown in the link in the resource area for running the Bosch relay . BAT #10 gauge Black Wire Connects to Pin#87 on relay SOL #10 gauge Red Wire Connects to Pin#30 on relay IGN #16 gauge Red/Yellow Wire Connects to Pin#86 on relay THSW #16 gauge Green Wire Connects to Pin#85 on relay

Bob I have been following this since you started this thread. Never commented as it hit a bit to close to home early on but I want you to know you and your Cooper threads have been a highlight while reading the forum. None of the nonense we see at times just someone who enjoys life and his car and yes cooper. My brother went through the same but it wasn't caught early, I am sincerly glad yours was and you kicked its butt. Keep the faith and your lust for life rolling on. You have been an inspiration in your own unique way. Thank you.

Thanks Robert I will add that to the list. Definitely cheaper that the other and would only need the fuel fill reworked. I see it measures out at Dimensions : 25.25 x 18.25 x 10.88 in.15 gallons I also found this as a possible tank. 1949-51 Ford Passenger Polyethylene Fuel Tank 24-1/2" x 22-1/2" x 9-1/2" 17 gallons It would need an angled fill connection to work but is allot more expensive than the other two choices. It is almost an exact match for size the filler is an easy fix with an angled fill and an angled rubber connector hose. Just more money but is probably the best it IMHO. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1949-51-Ford-Passenger-Polyethylene-Fuel-Tank-/170677047843?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27bd251223&vxp=mtr#ht_625wt_934 I still haven't gave up completely on the original which I did find out some interesting problems with. I decided to clean it up after work get the thick asphalt/rubber coating off etc.. I was really surprised at what the previous owner had done on his repair. The split at the seam wasn't the metal he had encased the entire tank in fiberglass and then applied his undercoating to both the top and bottom of the tank. Anyway the pictures tell the story as to what I found. The hole on the seam i likely did getting the fiberglass off. Never underestimate the previous owners work. Anyway just putting all the options out there for any who follows with the same problem. The fiberglass shell I found. It was stuck fairly tight just split at the seam as shown above. Found these under rust it had sealer attached so you couldn't see it at first. The one at the seam I probably put there trying to get the fiberglass loose. Also notice the lead patch. There are two others on the tank but seem to be holding. I still need to clean the rust off the rest of the tank. It smells of gas pretty strong with the fiberglass removed. Letting it air before I go further. Anyway that is where i am. Al .

Just looking at what is out there for options on a replacement gas tank while all of the shops are closed. The closest I have found is for a 55 56 Chevy. The picture shows what I would have to do with the existing bracket. Anyone use any other tanks for a 50 Plymouth? I put the old one back in place today and the exhaust may be a problem but would just need to be moved a bit. Other than that re plumb the fuel line and extend the upper brackets. Here is link to the tank I am looking at but plan on taking my old one someplace to see if it can be repaired first. http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=132/category_id=113/home_id=59/mode=prod/prd132.htm Mine measures Overall Size: 26"W x 22"L x 9 3/4"H The 55 Chevy tank in the link has these measurements. Overall Size: 24-1/2"W x 25"L x 8"H My tank for comparison.

So I dropped my tank today as it has a leak at the seam. It came out easy enough and after getting it out I can see someone has used some type of liner inside. I guess that failed over time. My question is how to fix it. It seems solid other than the seam looks like it coming apart. There was just a few specks of rust inside. My concern is using another sealer over the existing and the seam itself. Not sure how it was put together from the factory. So any thoughts?

I would be interested in how much carbon build up you have if you decide to go for it. I have heard of old timers taking the head off just to clean the carbon.

You will need to make sure the polarity is the same also. They are normally marked.

This may help. See below as I think Jim may be on the right track.. IF it was using a switch on the throttle linkage it would be momentary contact. Relays as I understand them are latching or on as long as they are energized which this one would be. I think blue skies added a latching relay on his as his column Mount switch was momentary contact as he wanted to disable the overdrive at will not just passing or on a hill. Which is what Jim was saying. Although I am not sure the added relay would be needed if a column Mount switch was a standard on and off rated appropriately. I thought I remembered a thread where someone hid a modern relay in an old housing but I cannot find it. That would be cheaper.

Thanks for the info. Looking at your measurements it looks like it would attach to the lowest ear on the tranny that bolts to the bell housing. Thanks again

Reading down the list it looks like all are following the manual just in different ways. Wikipedia does caution against using anything with EP additives due to the yellow metal getting corroded from the additives. "EP additives which contain phosphorous/sulfurous compounds are corrosive to yellow metals such as the copper and/or brass used in bushings and synchronizers; the GL1 class of gear oils does not contain any EP additives and thus finds use in applications which contain parts made of yellow metals." http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear_oil I am going with Georges recommendation currently but I think it is 20-50 roughly 5000 miles to date It should be interesting to see what others are using. BW OD Manual Al.

That is the bracket. So where did they attach it and do you have a spare from your first R7? If you do and care to sell it send me a PM.

Joe this version has an exploded diagram for everything on our 50 Plymouth cars. I paid about 30 bucks. As far as you have yours apart may be a good investment. Send me a pm if you need any others.

This is from my 1950 passenger car parts list. Its a reprint and not real good quality but hopefully it helps. Al

I have one in my car and love it. I have not had it apart so I can not help there but I would go with your option 2 as well. Just draining it look for shavings etc but other than that refill with GL-1 and try it. You may want to look at the shifter arms on the tranny once you get your old one out as I swapped one or both so that my linkage lined up. Been awhile and going from memory but I do remember changing at least one of them. Not sure you need this but here is the wiring diagram I got from George Asche. Do you have the relay as I didn't see it pictured? Also use 10 gauge wire between the relay and solenoid. I would like a picture showing the stock engage/disengage cable bracket if possible. Mine works but I may redo the bracket depending on what you have as mine is a bit stiff due to the angle.

Thanks Todd my books do not go back that far. So moparswedes part number fits P1 and a P8, so 1936 to 38 which would have had the full water jackets. Checking for a head gasket at Bernbaums shows a part number of L-131 fitting a 1935 (201) to the 1948 Plymouth which had a 218 engine. So it should fit a later engine. I would think that the compression ratio would be low but that is a guess. It would look sweet polished and sitting on the engine though. From here I got the below for specs: http://olskoolrodz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18165 US made small bores: 3.125X4.375 201cid Plymouth 35-41 3.250X4.375 217cid DodgePlymouth 41-54 3.250x4.625 230cid DodgePlymouth 54-59

Well I probably over thought this but I was curious. Looks like the head gaskest for this and an external bypass head, say 218 are the same up to 1949. So if it was used on a 230 would the compression be higher? This assumes it is a red head. Which sounds right anyway. Al

This may help look halfway down. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oilite

This web site shows the Red head for a 6 cylinder in 1933 but it is 189 cubic inch. What year does the part number you listed show? Also anyone know if a 189 cubic inch fits a 218/230 if that is what we are looking at? Very cool regardless. I like it. http://www.allpar.com/mopar/flat.html

How about posting a picture? Or two.

Try this on the laptop it works well and if you scroll to the bottom on the left is a link to the free version. Hope it helps. http://www.malwarebytes.org/lp/malware_lp/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=malware%20bytes%20%7c%20e&utm_campaign=Search%3A%20Brand%20-%20US&utm_content=sitelink2&gclid=CPGPt9nF77UCFcZFMgodUBsAdg Al

That is to wild. Tell you what if someones buys it I will try it. Oh I would need two I guess. Other than that I leave it to a more adventerous soul. Not the pringles can either.

60 to 70 miles? I haven't pulled over that often since my wife was 8 months pregnant.