Alshere59

So you going to restore the wood grain it?? Just to keep it original..

Just a thought. If the wheels are true and have no run out in them check the balance. If all that is good look at your pinion bearing and rear end lube level. Mine had a vibration I couldn't find either. That is until I took it for a test drive then put it on ramps. The pinion seal yoke for the rear end was warm very. It never made a peep not one noise. I did have a leak but it didn't seem bad just something that needed to be done. I guess it had leaked for a bit before I got the car. This assumes you don't feel the vibration through the steering wheel which is a whole different ball game.

Heat range is basically just how hot the center electrode is which you probably found in your research. Since they do have a optimal temperature it is a good idea to look at to keep it from fouling if to cold etc. To see if it is correct for your engine look at this link (while for racing) as it gives some good information on what to look for. I normally like to do some highway driving maybe 5 miles and then read them. Just the way I was shown and really don't have the why on that. As a general rule of thumb yes a hotter plug for slow speeds etc but on our flatheads I am not sure this is really needed if your showing a band roughly in the center of your ground strap you should be good. Factory recommendation should get you where you need to be on heat range assuming a stock engine. Higher compression dual carbs require a closer look. IMHO Hope it helps. http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost/internet_articles/Spark%20Plug%20Reading.htm

I would think either a R7 or R10 would bolt in. I have a R7 1940 vintage OD bolted to a 1955 230 vintage motor. I kept the bell housing from my original 1950 Plymouth 218 motor to make it work. Also had to lengthen the clutch rod 3/4 of an inch. Basically you may have to mix and match it a bit, but it should bolt in.

Do you have a schematic for the tach by chance?

From what I know they all run a fairly high RPM. I see you joined in 2007 so is this a new development? Have you driven it a lot or just get it running. It may be a slipping clutch. If you just got it running and the engine seems to be running higher RPM than you like you have a few options. You can change out the rear end for a better gear ratio or add an overdrive tranny or T5. All of this information is on the forum which you probably already know.

I like this line of thought. Are you aware how much this will take in work and cost? You can do a hot engine update for less costs and equal cool points. Also keep resale value for what it is anyway.

Your linkage still needs adjustment as you know its not there yet. If you followed the manual they tell you to adjust the gear selector rod. Are you sure you have the right one? It should be coming forward from the tranny. The one parallel to the column is for setting the shifter angle. So back to the manual. It says to take all of the slack out meaning no play in the rod to tranny levers. Then back it off 1/2 a turn tighten lock nut. That is the best I can give with what I can make of the description. It sounds like you are losening it. The basic idea is that 1st and reverse is tied together as is 2nd and 3rd for adjustment purposes. So normally you have 2/3rd or 1st/ reverse. You want the happy medium. It will get there just takes patience. A helper would be a big benefit. Just adjust a bit have them shift. Work one direction until your sure it is worse. Then go the other way. My guess is tighter on your adjustment. The clutch if you have it releasing 1 inch from the top should be good. You don't say if it is running but if it is and you have the one inch play again you should be good.

Its upside down. Easy fix though.

Hmm wonder how well this one compares? http://www.datsport.com/hydraulic-brake-booster-master-cylinder78.html

This can be done on the cars as well. I bought one out of a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee for $100. It has rear disc brakes and 3.54 axle ratio. Here is mine being prepped to put in my 50 Plymouth.

Guilty looking back. Thanks. Hope the OP gets what he needs.

Wish they were all that clean. Mine needs a lot of work to get to that stage. Very nice..

Ditto

It had a couple of redeeming qualities...

Well there is a dipstick in the video. I believe its right handed Tim. Al

Well I did one in jest but this one is a favorite. I'm sharing it because this forum helped make it happen. It is a pic of my oldest brother. You see he got me started on old cars. He had a 56 Olds among others but the one I remember the most never ran, a 1938 Dodge truck which sit in the driveway for years but I loved that old thing. Because of your help he got to ride in my old Plymouth. You see shortly after I bought it the engine went then the tranny started acting up. However after posting here and with your help I got it running to make the 330 mile trip. It had to be dependable as breakdown was not an option. He died of cancer on his birthday in February 2011. This was his last ride other than an ambulance. Thank you..

Whats wrong with Friendly New Guy?

Depends. Do you have stock rims? If so I think they are riveted. So they may leak air from there. If they have the rivets I would say just clean around them and paint with something that would seal. Then no tubes. Valve stems may need to be a bolt on variety as the tube type normally have larger holes even oval. No show stoppers just things to consider. Also have them checked for warping etc. After that many years it never hurts. Ask me how I know.

:eek:I would be worried more if he asked about rocker arms.

Lifters? Not sure an L6 would have what you call lifters. My manual calls them in order the "valve mechanism = Valves, Valve seats or inserts, valve guides, valve springs, tappets and tappet guides". So what happens if he can't find either solid or hydraulic? The tappets are solid if that will work for him/her.

Hmm if there was a way for a fifty fifty as to who is right with there diagnoses this could be a good chance to raise money. Half going to his car repair the other half to the Forum. Place your bets anyone... Almost like horse racing you just bet on your favorite comment if you dont like a 50 50 suggestions.

Hmm wouldn't the optics bring a whole new meaning to fouling out your plug/laser. Laser optics need to be clean.

Bri I think you will fit right in here welcome to the forum. Sounds like you have a lot of experience to share. Looking forward to reading your future posts.