Alshere59

I like the Turbo setup, makes me wonder how well it would work on a flathead.

It would be 3 degrees negative "down" on the trans then 3 degrees positive "up" on the pinion to get your parallel lines in your example. I think you have it but just to make sure.

If you cant get in with a grinder use a dremel. A bit more control and gets in tighter spaces.

Nice 51 truck as well. Any other cars/trucks you have in the stable? Definitely a nice collection of vehicles in your family from what I have seen.

Something else you may want to look at is your valves. Have you set them hot yet or what was your cold setting? Al

So is the car finished?

Fred True the engine temps rising at shut off etc are completely normal. That is kind of my point. If the normal temperature rises and his symptoms showing up coincide then it would seem like it would be worth a look. Many run 180 thermostats (myself included) if it is running a bit hot, then like you said things start to happen at 200. Especially if you have a ethanol blend of gas in the tank as it will be more susceptible to heat problems. Al

Well I don't see it mentioned but have you checked to see what your temps are? Temperature gages are not very reliable IMHO. Seems to be related to under hood temperatures from what I am reading. Wonder what they are. Radiator blocked etc.. Mine always goes up allot after I shut it off and some on the highway as well. Its cheap and easy to look at.

Just something I found on the bay if anyones interested. http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Tootsie-Toy-Blue-1950-Plymouth-4-Door-Sedan-/400207295035

This picture shows the lobe right between the 1st and 2nd cylinder for general information.

This site talks to the rear fenders a little bit. No Dodge information but does speak to some differences in the Plymouth fenders if that helps. Looks to be in the trim location. http://www.allpar.com/history/plymouth/plymouths-1949-1952.html

Sounds like a throw out bearing. How long has it been in the car?

I tend to have the same reservations as Oldmopar. Hearing this and looking for a replacement pitman arm at their request would make me nervous. Large bangs are not normally related to adjustments in the linkage. Adjustments only keep it from going into a gear as a rule. Steering arms are pretty stout how do they bend? I would have them get the tranny going first, before they work on anything else. Checking for metal shavings before it runs again would be my first step. Someone with better tranny experience may have better suggestion's but it doesn't sound like a adjustment problem IMHO. Also don't they check to make sure everything works or at least won't damage anything or run the risk of an accident before the customer takes it out.

Oil pan? Mike maybe a picture would help?

No the power does not have to be constant. It only uses power when the points close. You may want to try some contact cleaner from radio shack. Non lubricated. The use some light sewing machine oil to lubricate. A light touch with a point file if it is needed. Anyway thats as far as I can get you. Hope it helps. I would clean both clocks before swapping parts you never know. Also if you take the painted parts off a jewelry store may clean them in an ultrasound and lube for a good price. Never hurts to ask.

I had the same problem with the pump not clearing the frame. If you remove two bolts on the pump you can barely pull it and put it back in. Worked on My 50 Plymouth. I had a second pump that I used to prime the oil paasages initially then put in the new one. Just took the gear off the old one and drove the pump through the distributor. Just ran it long enough to show pressure. Yes it was prelubed. Its the way I was shown to do it in the past on OT vehicles.

Joe You have it right the spring is a resistor wire so as the contact movers across it it dims. The connector is just that, a connector. Al

Joe that is coming along really nice. I do have a question on the radiator cap. Is that a pressure release on it? I didn't think yours would be set up as a pressurized system.

If memory serves someone mentioned these switches get pretty hot depending on its function so would dielectric grease melt. If I'm off track someone chime in. Maybe you could use a spray contact cleaner and accomplish the same thing without taking it apart. Update: Well to answer my own question it shouldn't melt as that would require 392 F. The link below gives that and also talks to it forming a possible barrier. http://www.ipdusa.com/products/6706/dielectric-grease

Hmm its been hot in Saint Louie lately. What does your temp gauge do after running the engine a bit at speed then idle? I would be looking at the fuel lines etc. for routing and heat issues related to that. Any recent changes or repairs?

That pump will work fine on your engine. It is designed to work with both internal and external bypass applications. JUst use the supplied plug to block off the lower port.

I wonder if they would have made it there faster if people didn't run over them? The first mass produced vehicle was 1906 with the model T, maybe its just a coincidence.

I think you will find the best option is what will work on your car for its height. I had to change mine out after I replaced the front leaf springs due to the change in the amount of travel I needed. All of the shocks listed give about the same amount of travel except the Chevy truck. As Don listed in the other thread you have these travel ranges. Gabriel Guardian 81676 - 11.12 collapsed, 17.73 extended Here is what I was able to find on the Monroe 555004 GasMagnum Technical dimensions: Compressed length- 11.250. Extended length- 17.875. Travel - 6.625 inches. Adding in a 1978 1/2 ton rear shock we get this. Extended Length: 23.26 in. Collapsed Length: 14.23 in. Stroke: 9.03 in or the front for the Cheby Extended Length: 15.00 in. Collapsed Length: 9.95 in. Stroke: 5.03 in. You get more travel length but the compressed length may be a bit long. So as said, you have to mount them and see what fits based on your expected travel in your suspension. I liked the results and think you will as well take care..

It won't work on newer cars because there is no place to plug in the computer....

I think your original thought about the pinion bearing needs looked at. Drive it for a bit at highway speed then back it up some ramps. If the pinions hot you have a problem. check the fluid level while your down there as well. Just suggesting it as that what mine turned out to be. Your pinion angle should be good from what you have said you have done. What would change it? By the way my vibration got a lot better just by adding the lube.