Alshere59

You might try this page. http://www.guardianautoglass.com/

LB is not the weight it stands for Long Block and that is the price.

Looking around I found they have 230 motors relatively cheap. Shipping Would add to the price but after rebuilding and engine myself the price doesn't look that bad. Considering machine shop service parts etc. http://www.precisionengine.com/rebuilt-engines/chrysler/index.html

I had this come up at work a couple of months back so I have that reference. Since it is in 49 CFR the states have to meet these as a minimum. Enforcement is another story. § 393.60Glazing in specified openings. (a) Glazing material. Glazing material used in windshields, windows, and doors on a motor vehicle manufactured on or after December 25, 1968, shall at a minimum meet the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) No. 205 in effect on the date of manufacture of the motor vehicle. The glazing material shall be marked in accordance with FMVSS No. 205 (49 CFR 571.205, S6). ( Windshields required. Each bus, truck and truck-tractor shall be equipped with a windshield. Each windshield or portion of a multi-piece windshield shall be mounted using the full periphery of the glazing material. © Windshield condition. With the exception of the conditions listed in paragraphs ©(1), ©(2), and ©(3) of this section, each windshield shall be free of discoloration or damage in the area extending upward from the height of the top of the steering wheel (excluding a 51 mm (2 inch) border at the top of the windshield) and extending from a 25 mm (1 inch) border at each side of the windshield or windshield panel. Exceptions: (1) Coloring or tinting which meets the requirements of paragraph (d) of this section; (2) Any crack that is not intersected by any other cracks; (3) Any damaged area which can be covered by a disc 19 mm (3/4 inch) in diameter if not closer than 76 mm (3 inches) to any other similarly damaged area. (d) Coloring or tinting of windshields and windows. Coloring or tinting of windshields and the windows to the immediate right and left of the driver is allowed, provided the parallel luminous transmittance through the colored or tinted glazing is not less than 70 percent of the light at normal incidence in those portions of the windshield or windows which are marked as having a parallel luminous transmittance of not less than 70 percent. The transmittance restriction does not apply to other windows on the commercial motor vehicle. (e) Prohibition on obstructions to the driver's field of view—(1) Devices mounted at the top of the windshield. Antennas, transponders, and similar devices must not be mounted more than 152 mm (6 inches) below the upper edge of the windshield. These devices must be located outside the area swept by the windshield wipers, and outside the driver's sight lines to the road and highway signs and signals. (2) Decals and stickers mounted on the windshield. Commercial Vehicle Safety Alliance (CVSA) inspection decals, and stickers and/or decals required under Federal or State laws may be placed at the bottom or sides of the windshield provided such decals or stickers do not extend more than 115 mm (41/2 inches) from the bottom of the windshield and are located outside the area swept by the windshield wipers, and outside the driver's sight lines to the road and highway signs or signals. Again enforcement varies widely and this is the minimum that the states are required to have. Only paragraph (a) has a grandfather clause for our older vehicles.. Full text can be accessed from here. Why you would want to welll... http://ecfr.gpoaccess.gov/cgi/t/text/text-idx?c=ecfr&sid=a282c3bb29862e61aef5537d73ce8992&rgn=div6&view=text&node=49:5.1.1.2.36.4&idno=49

No code that I have ever found. A lock smith may be able to get one made. I have two NOS locks with keys I can part with one pretty cheap. Let me know. You can pull the lock by pressing in the retaining pin with a needle. Look for a small hole just on the edge of the handle by the top of the lock. Post a pick of what it looks like next to a ruler when you get it out. If it fits I will let you know that is if your interested. Al

I wouldn't think an aerial view would gain you much if you wanted to steal something specific. A street view may be an issue but I think a lot of us keep them in the garage anyway. Besides I put my location close but not at my exact house. Which is good enough IMHO. I don't think this map is that well known anyway and I do not think the members of the forum would steal in any case. I just found it odd that they caught mine in the driveway.

Why not just get an inexpensive magnetic gauge and measure the spindle? Granted it would need to set at roughly the ride height with the drums removed and on jack stands. If you have disc brakes it is very easy, you can just place the gauge on the rotor. I have disc on the front and it worked for me when I did my front end rebuild. It just went up for a quick check by the alignment shop and I went on my way. This article gives the why I think neg camber is the way to go. http://www.familycar.com/Alignment.htm

Seems to have caught mine in the driveway.

PM Sent

Fester I put a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee with disc brakes on my 50 Plymouth more door. If memory serves it was 5/8ths of an inch wider on each side. Leaving plenty of wheel clearance with my stock rims as shown in the pic. I would have thought your Coronet would be the same wheelbase. You are measuring from the outer most edge where the wheel bolts on right? I had to get my drive shaft lengthened but I had converted to a modern ujoint prior to the rear end swap. That required a flange to be bolted on the old pinion and since it wasn't needed for the new rear end my drive shaft was a bit short. So I am not sure if you would.

I wonder if there is any value in using the opposite of what you took out. I would think that rope would have a different wear point/pattern as neoprene. Just how much of a change on the crank sealing surface each has I don't know but wouldn't there be differences. As stated you can not put a speedy sleeve on it and a new crank or any repairs beyound dressing it up is expensive. Besides I like to think my engine sweats after a work out more than leaks.

Hope this helps. 2. With the T-handle engaged, the OD will kick in automatically at 26-28 mph through centrifugal flyweights. Q: Must the driver throttle-off briefly to trigger this event? Yes that is the way it works. 4. The car will roll when parked in any gear but reverse. Q: Is this only when parked with the T-handle engaged, or all the time? Only when the handle is in the engaged position. When in OD at, say, 40 mph and the car coasts down to below 26-28 mph, does the OD automatically shift into direct? And if so, does the throttle have to be off for this to occur? It will disengage as you drop below 28 (YMMV at the exact speed) when you take your foot off the gas to slow down. If it were to drop below 28 on a hill for instance it would not until the gas was released. Is the throttle kick-down switch carburetor-specific? My D25 has a Stromberg BXV-3. The "switch" is the same as I understand it, the bracket would need to fit your carb. By the same I mean the switch only needs to be a momentary contact rated for the correct amperage. Basically it just makes contact when you floor the gas pedal, or as mentioned above can be ran on the inside of the car for versatility. Al

Hello Well I haven't owned an R 10, I do have an R7 though. So all I can talk about is my experience. Currently running it with a 3.5 jeep rear end. Ohio is fairly flat and I have no problem getting around with a 230 rebuild. When I go to Missouri (Lots of hills around) I just disengage it run it like a normal 3 speed. On the highway it can disengage with the switch for passing or hills. So for me it works. It engages at roughly 28 mph just let off the gas a second. It does take getting used to when parked as it will roll in any gear other than reverse. Hope it helps. Al

My first car back in 1974 was a a 1965 Truiph Spitfire MKII. Painted British racing green with a bolt on hard top and wire wheels. Also like many that have posted I wish I still had it.

Interesting web site. I like the free download area for some of the service manuals etc. http://vintagemoparts.com/category.php?id_category=10 Thanks

Make sure you post the build I may do the same if it works out well. Al

You may want to contact Moose one of the forum members. He can set you up with a manifold that fits your needs. Here is a link to his web page. http://www.manifoldsbymoose.com/manifoldsbymoose/D-P_Combos.html

Yep that was done. Actually the shop does a lot of racing enigines. Some I have seen are Indy light series, various engines for other cars (Fords mainly) and even some tractors, my mopar flathead was actually their first mopar L6. They have my shop maual and a lot of experience so life should be good.

Well stopped in at the shop doing the conversion. A couple of pictures on that. As mentioned before the plug to seal th passage between the new connections is threaded so it can be reversed if desired. The bearings are federal mogul for the crank and clevite for the rods as are the new ones. Dodgeb4u Anyway hope to have the engine back next week and finish putting it together and back in. The shop that is doing the work are big on Fords but they wanted the site, maybe they will convert to Mopar. George you listening?

Let me look through the receipts for the bearings. The shop has been building engines since the 50's same father and son team. They are highly thought of. Any source for bearings anyone recommends? Or who to stay away from, PM's if you are reluctant to post.

Kevin I hope your right and that is what caused the loss of pressure because then I shouldn't have any gremlins out there. The cam and tappets look very good. I will putting my magnets back in as well. Very small but very strong and every bit helps. The thrust face looks good to my eye and the shops. I just don't get why its only when the oil gets hot. I am leaning for it to be in the pump honestly but it looked good also. Dodge The bearing and cranked were all miked both before the rebuild and and after the problems started. They were and are on the low side on the 10 grind. They do show a lot of damage that is the truth. The filings I am at a loss. The shop has found nothing and neither have I, no worn parts, tappets, cam, thrust face, timing chain, sprockets etc. Still looking but frankly I am at a loss. I just need to get it worked out. My wife has been very supportive as she knows I have wanted an old car for years but seems to be losing some of her enthusiasim.. Al

Joe The pump is going to be replaced. Not sure how you would check them operating out of the car, it looked good however. Is there a way. Young Ed The cam bearings looked good but will be replaced just for cheap insurance. All line/passages cleaned etc. Still haven't really determined why the oil pressure goes down with any certainty at least not for me. Found problems but not enough for the pressure to drop at full temperature only. Just trying to cover all of my bases. Thanks for the ideas keep them coming. Like why the rod bearings on 5 and 6 wore on the top of the bearing and not the bottom? The rods will be reworked or replaced but? Don I didn't see any temperature indications on the bearing shells but will look again. Have never ran low on oil but as stated it did go pretty low on pressure and it did make it to the brass on two of the rods. Full flow will be taping into the oil outlet on the side of the block putting in a plug then taping in again past the plug. A bit risky I know but if it works I should have cleaner oil in the long run. Doesn't filter as fine as the original but that one doesn't filter it all the time. I have seen it done in other threads. Basically it is the same process used by Richie Hodge in his post. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=17899 I think the line size will be slightly larger than 3/8's however. I will put up pics and fitting sizes when the machine work is done. Also the plug between the two oil lines that will be tapped in are threaded as well so completely reversible.

Haven't posted in a while but here is an update. Put in a new spring in the oil pressure valve. Also 20 40 oil No change oil pressure still drops on highway speeds. Basically 18ish then even lower at idle roughly a bit above 10 until it sits and gets completely cold again. ON a cold start later on the pressure is in the 40's then starts the same routine oil pressure drops. I don't see it in my normal driving as I just do quick trips 10 or 15 miles or so. Non highway Anyway I attached some pictures of the bearings. Most show dirt scoring except for the rod bearings on 5 and 6 they wear on one side on the top half only. Anyway current plan is conversion to full flow filter. New bearings and oil pump. Crank will be turned to the high side on a 20 grind. A though cleaning of course. The engine builder has been good about working the issue the crank was miked and showed all of the journals on high side of 10 under. Bearings show the scoring from dirt and the pump looks good. Basically other than the 5 and 6 rods showing the wear in the top half of the shells no reason for the pressure to drop. Granted the bearing scoring is not good but should it acount for the oil pressure dropping. Still needs fixed I know. Any thoughts? Also found some valve guides that were out of tolerance by more than a bit. Those are all going to be replaced. I have attached some pictures as well.

Just a quick note as I have never seen this site mentioned. A few engine parts buried in the military stuff. http://www.midwestmilitary.net/dodgewc13.html