Alshere59

Wouldn't a closed PCV system keep your hood clean. Just get a sealed Oil fill cap and plumb it to your air cleaner. The vapors should condense in your air filter. http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/239.cfm VPW has options as well. http://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/pdf/parts/01engine.pdf The catch can you showed doesn't seem like it would work after the engine was shut off and there was no vacuum. Take care Al

Wouldn't it be better to just wait and get another carb? A leak could give new meaning to firing the engine up.

Nice shadow box Tim. What Branch USAF? I see a heavy on a stand so thats my guess. Al

Good looking Boy you should be proud. Need any gift suggestions for Christmas? LOL http://www.ebay.com/itm/Racing-Champions-5-Decades-Petty-42-1950-Plymouth-/250919685696?pt=Diecast_Vehicles&hash=item3a6bfa8e40 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dinky-Plymouth-Estate-Car-1950-Tan-/140627620305?pt=Diecast_Vehicles&hash=item20be0f31d1 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Franklin-Mint-Precision-Model1957-Plymouth-Fury-1-43-Scale-Diecast-Car-/280762793439?pt=Diecast_Vehicles&hash=item415ec43ddf Have to get them started out on the right foot.

I had the same reservations. Manufacturers have mnimum standards they want for proper wear etc. I went a bit narrower and have had no problems. Anyway here is a chart for you to look at but shows very little information on 16 inch wheels.. http://customwheelsmarket.com/rimwheelwidth1.html http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=194

I wonder if it is the current generation of kids growing up?

Interesting vehicle. Never heard of him before Étienne Lenoir. Thanks for the info I like Trivia. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%89tienne_Lenoir I couldn't find anything on the first internal combustion powered car for Ohio but I love the firsts in Ohio IAW this web sight. •The world’s first automobile accident occurred in Ohio City, Ohio in 1891 •The world’s first speeding ticket was issued in Dayton, Ohio in 1904. Don When were you in Ohio? http://defdriving.wordpress.com/2011/03/17/automotive-firsts/

Heres the link. http://www.wnep.com/wnep-snyder-unique-streetrod-stolen-near-selinsgrove-20111024,0,6339821.story

Like a lot of us I visit both. I actually like the truck forum more as it seems to avoid the drama thats seen on the car side at times. So my thoughts are to keep them separate. Al

I made my own. I think it was a new cupcake baking dish. Made of a high temp silicon. It works well and the right thickness. Al

Tim it is still there just updated for 2011. Here is the link. http://www.monroe.com/assets/downloads/english/08_MountingLengthSheet.pdf

Why not go with amber? Not the stock color for our year though.

John looking at a few more sites it looks like they are good. Glad you kept at it. Now to order a pair for me.

I think the best is start with the basics. I couldn't tell from your post but looking back I see you had gas tank problems. Are they solved? Did you flush the line clean with any filter you may have also? Carb clean? If you now have fuel during start up is there spark. Pull your plugs are they fouled? In your other thread you said they were sooty. Fresh and or clean plugs and clean fuel may get you where you want to be. If not Check the firing order you said you didn't mess with the plug wires "much" but how much is much? If you haven't changed anything else and your gas problem is solved "which I am not sure about" then plugs should equal running. Also The piston is not visable when you pull the plugs as they are over the valves. There is a small plug over number 6 that will let you check if the piston is at the top. If you pull that and insert a rod watching so it doesnt bind fall in etc. you can check to see when that piston gets to the top but it only works for number 6. Sorry after reading it sounds a bit abrupt. My intent is/was only to help. Al

Here is you answer to polarity. Sorry but they like it one way only. As they are wired with the ground as a seperate wire I would think they could be modified for positive ground. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LED_circuit

Interesting to see that grouping 40 years from now. Somehow I thing the older ones are more likely to be around.

Try here for a spell check. http://www.iespell.com/download.php

Thank you. I was hoping.

So you mentioned a bit more duration, is there any difference in lift?

Is that a freeze (Welsh) plug or?? Looks a lot different from anything I have seen.

Was the 45-50 reading at road speed and the 25 at idle? 45 50 was at the start of the trip on the highway dropped to 25 at highway speeds no tach so rpm is?? you might have an oil pump failing.....takes steel on steel to make fine filings like that.... The fine filings I have to agree is not a bearing issue, however could it have caused my shiny metal flakes. snip "cleanness is next to Godliness." I had someone do the rebuild that has a very good reputation. Called him and he wants to see the bearings as stated. The mains was what I was curious on do any show more wear on these engines on average? The rods I will work my way down 1-6 to see any damage. Will be pulling bearings and oil pump. Either way I think the engine is coming apart for cleaning and new bearings. Was hoping for some ideas on the filings as the rebuilder has a good reputation.

Well the title says it all. Some background first. I went for a drive and noticed the oil pressure dropping on the highway. I was doing about 60 mph for 15 minutes or so I have an OD with 3.54 gears. Pressure started out at 45 to 50 and dropped to about 25 with the temperature staying normal I never have had an issue with it overheating. I got it home and pulled the filter and sucked the oil out. Small flakes of bearing in the bottom of the filter housing. Also I have two strong magnets set on the intake of the oil filter housing and have very fine metal filings stuck on those. I attached a picture of the metal filing on the magnet. Anyway the engine has about 6K on a rebuild and the oil was changed at 500, 1000 and 2000 and every 3000 since. Straight 30 weight castrol and new filter each time. Now for my questions. The shop that did the rebuild wants me to bring in a main and connecting rod bearing is there any that are more likely to fail than another? Any ideas why the metal filings as they are extremely fine? I put the in initially as I was concerned with left over dust from cylinder honing etc and just left them in.

Dan So you installed the disc brake conversion and then had problems? I didn't see it mentioned but after a bit of reading that is what it sounds like. If it is was that your first drive? Since it is rubbing on the bottom I wouldn't think a loose bearing would do the rubbing. Seems that if they were loose it would have a negative camber and not positive when loaded. Although it shouldn't move at the spindle anyway. I would verify all of the parts you installed are the ones needed per your kit instructions. Especially the bearings and rotor. If they are the right parts did you seat the inner race all the way in? I would think it would be something else but you never know. It is odd that your both rubbing and that the castle nut could not be used. Does the kit mention that would happen as I think they would know in advance? You may want to look at the length of the bolts with the kit, but I only say that as I see two lock washers on leading bolt on the bottom for both sides and am wondering if they were to long at first. Anyway just my two cents. Al

Yep Fridge and to the left is a true "ice box" as in put ice in it is my guess.

Napa carries them its a universal for both internal and external bypass. Mine was new and not rebuilt with no grease fitting. $71 and the part number is TFW 42554 and it is a special order as Rodney discovered.