Mark D

And it’s in your backyard mr. g

Edgy is only grinding custom cams now.

Pics please!! the rest of us wanna see what this looks like too.

We can still buy these off the shelf at auto parts stores for decent prices. Can’t recall exactly what I paid for a single, but it wasn’t anywhere near the $50 people are gouging in ebay.

I was lucky to find a local old skool installer that been in the biz for 40 years. Most of the guys I went to wouldn’t touch any car made before 1960. This guy also let me work along side him which I wanted so I knew how it was put together, and also for personal experience. The guy I used is at the end of his career, has severe arthritis and put about 6 hours max per week into my top replacement. I won’t put his name here, but if you’re interested to speak with him, drop me a PM.

Been some time since I provided an update. After many trials and tribulations, the convertible came home last night. Spent the day yesterday with the trimmer in his shop covering up the staples, trimming fabric, installing stainless trim and snaps, and cleaning her up. She hadn’t been started for 13 weeks, and I was pleased she jumped quickly to life and other than the tires with flat spots from sitting, which thumped a for a little bit), she drove well on he way home. Lots of stares and thumbs up kept me grinning. Next up, the interior replacement. Stay tuned.

Duals for Plymouths - Speed Mechanics 1954 View File Part two of the article I last uploaded. Submitter Mark D Submitted 11/30/2017 Category Reference Information

Gonna need some photos to say exactly what you have. Photo attached shows my 47 convertible. Note they were painted body color for this body style, all others were wood grained.

"Plymouth Soup-up" from 1954 Speed Magazine View File Bought this magazine after hearing about hearing about this article online. Very interesting read, which illustrates HP the gains from basic part swaps. Enjoy! Submitter Mark D Submitted 11/28/2017 Category Reference Information

P15’s shared all sheet metal 1946 thru the first week of March 1949. Bodies changed totally when they retooled and started the p19’s. There is no common sheet metal with the p19’s.

Stop thinking out loud, go out and buy something with an automatic trans and add it to the collection.

I touched the report post button on a thread accidentally and it didn’t give me the option to back out. Hope this doesn’t negatively affect that persons standing. What’s the deal here, is that how it works?

Not much casting for a helicoil to bite into.

Something you might try is to use a machine screw of a smaller diameter and a longer length with a nut and lock washer below. This worked for me on a carb that had one stripped out tap.

One of the wise sages here told me to pull the inspection plug on my engine, over the #6 cylinder and check the measurements of the cylinder at its low position. The resultant dimension will tell you if it’s a 230. And since I can’t remember which is which at the moment, I’ll leave that to the sages to specify below.

My car has all original fasteners in place. I’d be happy to photograph them next week for you.

Wrapping the springs allowed for grease to stay between the leaves, thereby making the ride quieter with less squeaking. Probably also helped immensely at the submarine races...

My wife says I’m fully warped... but it’s a good excuse sometimes.

There does not seem to be much room to get your hand into there nor any combination of wrenches/sockets. With the welded dash in the convertible, I really don't see how to get in there. Anyone else installed/removed these in the past?

Ps I got plenty of jute left over, can deliver it on 11/4.

Seat bench removed for mine, however frame remained in car. Pics below. I took the time to replace the jute backer to the rubber when I pulled it from the car. Note that the steeringcolumn collar at the fire wall need to be backed off, and the gas, and brake clutch rubber pedals also.

Any recommendations as to where I can have couple of these rubber parts made? They are DPCD part no DT 850650, and fit under the folding B pillar to seal it against the body of the car. Of the two I have one is in great shape, the other not so much.

More progress to report, and the top installation is wrapping up today. Took these pictures last week. Here the rear panel is tacked in place and the top pads are shown below. New Top pads needed to be made as the ones from Hirsch did not fit correctly in width and length. The pads prevent the Hartz cloth from wearing prematurely. I was able to assist with the next step which was to lay the top over the car and start to stretch and tack it in place. The following day it was brought out in the sun to warm. The guys then removed the temporary staples and started to stretch and re-tack it into its final position. Over the weekend the windlace was put onto cover all of the staple lines and the snaps were installed in the top to mirror the locations that were factory installed on the body. New rubber window seals from Steele arrived and were covered with the appropriate self adhesive black fabric also supplied by Steele. I should have the car back in my possession in the next day or so.