Mark D

Too late for that my friend, applied some million year old dinosaur soup to them last weekend, this did revive the leather, but I believe the fault lies in the rubber beneath which no longer has the ability to push outward. I was thinking that if I am to disassemble the plates, that a single rubber neoprene or like casting may be an improvement. Alternative would be to find a rubber O band that has the required diameter and thickness. Picture attached shows how the leather is pinched in place between the plates with the rubber behind it. Maybe I will just try adding a thick rubber band behind the leather.

I'm wondering if neoprene would be a good candidate for substitution of the leather seals in the top cylinders? I read recently of a guy in Oregon that rebuilds vacuum wiper motors with this material as a substitution but I don't have any contact info. I just sent a note to info@Hydro-E-Lectric.com to ask them for their opinion on rebuild, waiting now on their response. I did try applying oil to the seals, and get a very slow retract with the system, but there is no closing ability at all. Note that I replaced all steel and rubber lines 1:1. Appreciate collective thoughts on this. Mark D

I believe the "muffler" is actually a vacuum check valve. Blowing through each end produced this discovery for me. - Mark D

This thread is a few months old, but I am currently in the process of servicing the vacuum power top system. If needed I would be happy to email photographs. - Mark

Fantastic, good picture too, smidge looks great. - M&T

Best thing I added to my Sedan, and one of the most challenging rebuilds I've ever taken on. After I bought the R10, I stripped it, replaced every bearing and worn part, rebuilt it and installed it. I'm likely to look for another for my convertible.

18" cable from the Positive post to the head stud nearest the thermostat housing. 18" cable from the negative post to the starter solenoid terminal, then 18" from he solenoid to the terminal on the starter. All cables heavy gauge.

Mines lasted 70 years without. I'd be afraid of particles sluffing off and clogging other parts and passageways. Leave it like the engineers planned it.

I just bought this one for my convertible.

Not only you... I gave up after working on my brakes for four days. Moved it over to a guy that has more patience than me at the moment. However I was at his side as we spent 2.5 hours on the front end. Passenger side was only tweaking that got the drum to turn. Drivers side required me to flip the shoes, the. We had to slightly sand the toe on each side to get it to turn. Rear ended will be done while I am on a business trip to Chicago this week.

Found some minor rot in the rockers, two drivers side body to frame mounts are beyond repair, I suspect that the undercoating is hiding more. This weekend as I put her up in the air it became evident as I watched the door seam grow from 1/8" to 3/8" at the top of the door. I will only ever likely do one frame off. This is the car to do it to.

My latest wallet drain... spare no expense. She will be a driver for the next few years, then when we relocate to our place in NC she will become her a frame off resto.

Can't recall exactly where I read it, but I'm pretty sure the woodgrain is referred to as "Sapele", and the The name of the brown insert it was "Cordovan" Brown.

I've had this same unit in my sedan for three years. One day it mysteriously fried and Matt helped with a replacement at no cost. The unit worked real well on my old 802. Recently had an old-timer rebuild another 802 for me and I replaced the one in my sedan (which I sold to Bob Toft), now the Redi-rad I find it that the signal isn't as strong as it used to be so I guess I need to hear more about your tuning on the 802! Redi-rad is nice unit at a decent price and I love that the old tunes on my Pandora 50's channel sound so sweet on the 70 year old equipment.

Holy cow! Well let's ralleye the cars and get together! Welcome back.

Absolutely a priority for me.

Haven't checked the mounts yet, assume they cant be that bad as they didn't get much road time. They were changed out with the new engine 27k miles ago. Pry bar my firewall??? eeek....

I think we all know what this is, and I know it was a factory provided device. The one installed on the reman engine in the convertible is frozen with what I assume is rust on the interior. I've doused it with PB blaster on the back side, as well as lubricated the cable. The knob on the dash is a 50%. Not sure if there is water going past at the moment due to the fact that I have not run the engine for any length of time. I'd like to remove it to bench service and swap for another that I have in my stash, but this is so close to the firewall, I don't see how it would rotate out of the head without damage. Really don't want to remove the head, but if that's what it takes... thoughts?

I tested the signals yesterday and the dash indicators do work. The light indicator on the end of the selector work only intermittently. Front parking lamps are not blinking but rear lights are working fine. I will pull the lenses later this week to see if the car was wired to include front dual filaments or not. Under the dash, someone has replaced the tin style flasher unit with something more modern, a square plastic deal. Removed it and plugged in an NOS unit I had in the garage and it did not work at all, so I will need to grab another vintage style unit. Noticed also last night that none of my dash lights are working. Dash switch toggled to no effect either. Switch mounted fuse was in place and was not blown. More sleuthing to do for another upcoming weeknight.

Thanks Dave - Hope you are well. How's everything down in Chocowinity? We went down to the plantation in March and had a glorious 10 days. I'll be own again in December with Ruby the four door sedan to put her into storage in one of the garages.

Spent nearly the entire weekend working on the car, new brake cylinders on all four corners. Right rear gave me some heartache, kept blowing by the piston gasket, so I pulled another from my stock and that did the trick. Also emptied the gas tank and started cleaning it in place by recycling 5 gallons of gas through the sending unit port and out the bottom drain into a pan. Have since decided the tank needs to come down and be cleaned out. Too much crap in there for my liking. The crap that came out was just gross, stuck to the bottom of the pan I was using to collect it and hardened to a varnish in the sunshine (what little we had on Saturday.) Valves are still sticking... Went to start her today after I got her sneakers back on and all I her was a starter whirring and a lots of back fire through the carb. So I played whack a mole again on #2 and #4 and got them freed up again and she started with some gas dumped in the carb. Friday night was a late night in the garage, stayed up there until 12a, went home and hit the sack only to be woken at 3:30 by my wife telling me that my grandson had been born! Daughter and baby boy Jace are doing terrific. I am in head over heals in love with the little guy, and can't wait to take him for a ride in the convertible.

Bob the turn signal indicator looks original to the car, but I am unsure as to whether or not it was factory installed. One of our fellow English comrades remarked it appeared factory in a foto that I had posted on Facebook. Still unsure, but here are the fotos.

Nice ride! Welcome.

Another article I found on Dr McCue. Turns out he and his wife and his car spent many days roaming around Marlboro Massachusetts, oddly enough, the town where I was born. http://www.willishenry.com/Shaker McC 1/tyler.htm the article mentions a son, my next target of research. Dropped by Bernbaums today and picked up some new wheel cylinders for all four corners. Got one on tonight, the rest tomorrow.

Just ordered a bottle - will report back.