Mark D

Two words : “beer fridge”

A good and thorough service of the drivetrain and engine bay should result in happily achieving 55mph (and in my humble opinion: fast enough) speeds for your beautiful black Betty. What a nice car!

Typically two bolts at the bottom of the backrest are threaded into the body floor pan. Remove bolts and lift the back rest off of the clips which are welded into the body.

Helping out a friend in Finland whose got a p15 that he imported this past summer. He’s trying to find a rear axle that has a gear set for better highway speeds. Gave him photos out of one of the p15 parts catalogs I have for the ratios that were offered from p14-p24. He’s found an a guy nearby that has an axle but it has numbers that don’t correspond to what I sent him. Supposedly this axle came out of a 1950 dodge convertible but we don’t know if it original to the car. Also in a past conversation with One of you gurus there was mention that there was a way to tell what gear set was installed in the pinion from markings on the case? Still working on my first coffee of the morning, So I may still be a little under caffeinated. Appreciate guidance here.

Looks be about the same age as my grandson Jace. 14 months old, he loves looking at the pictures of the P 15‘s that are hung in my office. Seen here sitting on what day what will be his car.

Been a while since I updated this thread. Made another milestone this past weekend and installed my new leather interior. Leather came from a Garrett Leather in NY, and at $9/sf it was certainly and investment. Took five hides to cover everything and there were still some areas that I chose to cover in Vinyl such as the rear seat side bolsters and rear of the front seat. New door cards and kick panels were sourced from a company called remautoinc.com. They were advertised as made to OE measurements, but the door cards were too short and the kick panels needed to be cut down to fit. Would do those again from scratch if I was not rushed to get this part of her refresh done. Next up new black wall tires, shocks x4, new rear spring bushings, and front sway bar bushings to tighten her roll in corners. Custom made carpet will be completed next week. After that a new parade boot and Tonneau.

I knew this would be something that is a uniquely American product. So I included the wiki photo.

Another use for NEATS foot oil. The valves inside the wiper motor are leather. I’ve restored two motors with this product.

I thought at first you might be referring to one of these, but it seems you’ve got the answer. This is a trico vacuum booster. Used to supplement and correct for poor vacuum conditions. I’ve got this recently in one of the p15’s I bought and have started the install in my p15 conv to see if it will assist the top operation. Ps nice speaking with you this morning!

I’m afraid there is no source selling these Tom. They must be sewn up by a local upholsterer due to the low demand. As for suppliers for your top, Hirsch Auto Tops should be your only call. I’ve gone through the sourcing exercises for my car recently and they are 100% above all the rest. If you need help ordering I can help. -Mark

Love to know the answer to this myself. I’ve had 2-3 new ones do the same.

Just slap this on the bumper and drive... ”did you see those Plymouth’s take off??!!!”

Both my p15’s have the same brake spring set up as yours greg. But the convertible top springs are coiled from a heavier wire.

Bob, i had my trimmer sew up replacements for the springs on my convertible last fall when the new top went on. I suspect also this was an a simple solution to eliminate road vibration and harmonics. This top was not meant to be hand operated, and I don’t believe the designers had hand operation in mind as the considered all the parts of the system involved. This top gold design was very ingenious. The simple physics of the fold are really ingenious. Aided by the springs, the vacuum assemblies begin the pull until they reach a fulcrum point where the spring tension is removed and the vacuum cylinders snug the top down. A little overlooked, one thing that is important to call attention to is the actuator “switch”. Not only does the switch open one side of the vacuum circuit for action, but it also relieves pressure on the other side of the cylinder. I am still amazed to watch that 71 year old tech do its job so well.

Me! Flights and hotels booked. See you in motor city!

Looks like a standard “Deluxe” interior.

I clicked the xxx.tif and it revealed a carb photo that has the choke cable connected on the drivers side of the carb. Typically it’s the other side. I suspect this is a later model carb that would have been set up with a sisson automatic armature. Correct model carb for a p15 would be D6G2.

i bought two on eBay, happy to sell you my spare at the cost I paid plus postage. Send me an email mark@rdusaclassics.com and we can coordinate.

And then this happened. All points bulletin out for this top hinge pivot. Guessing the threaded post was cracked as when I reinstalled the nut it took no effort with a small wrench to spin it off. Posted on the Facebook POC page, and had one kind gent respond that he could make me one, but if someone has a stash, I’m in the market for buying one as I need to get this back in place. By the way I found a form of butyl silicone tape at Home Depot. Used to make quick repairs to water pipes it seals in the wet. Somewhat of a modern friction tape, I used the small roll to put on 4 layers. It conformed to the edge of the glass easily and the tape was easy to work with. A deadblow hammer made reseating the glass fairly quick.

Good advice. Thanks. Now where do I get butyl tape?

The fuse is the old glass tube style, and as Tim stated would be on the power lead. Original style would be steel jacketed, about 5/16” in diameter and 1-1/2” long.

For future reference, this is an exact fit. And I will also note that the left and right part numbers turn out to be the exact same part. I ordered both to see what the difference would be. Spot welds on these are not great, hoping they hold on for my life time. Today I will drill out the old top flange, clean the frame and install the new post. Wondering if my rivet gun will work for this.

Bought the closest match from eBay. Labeled for dodge truck but looks darn close or at least modifiable. Thanks Dave, hadn’t seen these on ebay before.

Late thirties LaSalle.

So I grabbed a small crew driver and pried at the edge, noticed it moved to my surprise... the butyl tape is old and was very brittle so I immersed it in hot tap water and left it for 30 minutes. Two more attempts with the screw driver and some muscle and it came out fairly easily. Cleaned up the trim with some Brillo and soap, then cleaned the old butyl tape from the glass. The slanted porting of the glass is relieved to allow for the top hinge post to seat inside the chrome frame. You’ll notice that the butyl tape did not prevent the water from getting into the frame over the years and it has attacked he spot weld which gave way at some point in the past.I’m gonna call around to see if a local machine shop can machine up a single piece replacement for me.