Mark D

Hey Mike, welcome aboard. Let's see a picture of the car! I sold a couple plymouths in Luxembourg last year. Love to see if it's one of them. cheers, mark

Awesome - just beautiful.

Hey Bob - I called them and they don't have parts anymore.

P15 convertibles also have a spring assist. It is mounted horizontally behind the cylinder and attached to a lever on the B pillar top bow. Mine are present and in good shape. Nice car by the way!

From what I know, vacuum powered tops were only mopar, and only offered late 30's to early 49. The facebook group intention was to collect P15 owners, to try and figure out how many p15's were left, we may open it to the sister marques. Hoping to hear back that they can make up the cups, before I make too many promises there's a few more calls and research that I have to do for the vendor in order for them to be certain they can make the molds for these.

Greg - Thanks to you for this lead. I made a call and talked to them this morning. The cups I require are indeed special order, but they are willing to make new. Since we are in contact with a dozen p15 convertible owners now via the facebook page Robin and I are admin-ing, I will see if there is interest in having a few more sets made for these guys. Next step is for me to pull the cylinders from the car and take some pretty detailed photos of specific parts of the interior, they will then try to match spec at the factory.

YESIREEBOB! (or Greg...) #711 probably the closest fit, but the edges are not thickened or flared. Cheap enough to order and give it a go. Got an email from the guys downunder moments ago. Will see how these do before I go knock on their door.

Thanks for the response. My cylinders and chrome shafts were also in great shape. Tolerances between the shaft and bronze (i stand corrected, and it was what I meant to type) bushings is fantastic, with zero end play fully extended. Like your car my car was stored with the top down for most of its life, but the dry storage was not kind to the leathers. Ive been in contact with a company in Florida (http://www.hydroe.com) used to make replacement parts for these systems, however in my last conversation with them the old timer that had the skills passed on and they no longer offer the service. The do 100% hydraulic now and make systems for 50's through modern cars. Much of the stuff they sell is OEM direct replacement for 50's cars. They quoted me $700 for a complete hydraulic system which I have given thought to. Before I commit, i am waiting for a return call from a company in Australia the makes replacement rubber cups for pumps. The cups are $45AUS each, and since I will be in Australia for business next month I am going to stop by and see what I can get from them. I'd really like to keep the original system in the car, but I also want to have a functioning top for the car, and since most of this gear isn't seen, I am willing to acquiesce on an item like this.

Got a few questions for you; 1.) why did you decide to go with new shafts. Wouldn't it be easy to press out and insert new brass bushings? 2.) did you find a replacement for the leather seals and if so what was the material and where did you source them? 3.) does the top go up and down satisfactorily now? your work looks excellent. mark d

Got a call from Bill Hirsch today. Can't say enough about how much it means to me that the principal of a company takes the time to place a call to his customers. How it happened was that my trimmer opened up the cartons that the top was shipped in and found that the padding for the roof and the wire-on trim were sent in the wrong color. My trimmer called Hirsch and let them know, whereupon Bill got the note and called me to apologize. Bill promised all incorrect parts would be replaced asap without cost. I did my homework before I made the purchase from Bill Hirsch. Many people told me he runs a good company and delivers good products. Today I learned that first hand his customer service is also great.

I dont mind you asking at all. I think sharing gives power to the consumer in these instances. Keep in mind that shop rates can vary by region and overhead requirements. My guy has a fairly simple shop with low overhead, and only one apprentice in training (which was pretty cool to hear in these days). Aside from materials the top install will cost roughly $1,000-1,200USD. Note I am in the northeast US and labor rates tend to be higher here. Cheers - Mark D

Hi Ward, great car you've got there. Lots of work for sure! My car is currently in the trimmers hands and he's started to remove and replace the top for me. I've posted a couple pictures on the P15 convertible Facebook page that Robin Wethersbee and myself started a few months ago. When the trimmer is completely finished removing the top, I will go in and mask and repaint all of the top bows. After the paint dries the trimmer will install the new top that I purchased from Bill Hirsch in New Jersey. I've ordered extra fabric from him when I ordered the top, and I'm going to have the trimmer make up two extra parade boots. Last week I learned I have a cousin that works at the Haartz fabric production factory here in Massachusetts. He's going to supply me with 15 yards more black on tan fabric, so I will be set for life! I'll probably use that fabric to make up a new Tonneau. This week I ordered the bow drill tape and the foam extrusions which form the weather seals around the front door windows. I'll work on installing those closer towards of the new top install process. The well liner that the top folds into Will receive a new skirt made from a dark maroon vinyl, which is more waterproof than the original painted fabric. I've taken the top cylinders apart, which was not a very difficult task. I've examined and cleaned the interiors of both cylinders, removed cleaned and reassembled both draw plates. I've attempted to revive the leather seals which are sandwiched between the draw plates to no good result. I tried the neets foot oil and I also tried good old 3in1. The results were less than satisfactory, the top will fold down, albeit very slowly. However the top will not go up, and only moves a fraction of an inch with the valve engaged. My convertible does not have the double acting fuel/vacuum pump. Vacuum is drawn straight off the manifold and is plumbed straight to vacuum check valve, some here on the forum refer to this valve as a "muffler" from its resemblance the same. It leaves the vacuum check valve proceeds through the firewall and is teed off to the wiper motor on one side and on the other side to the top actuator switch. From the switch it is plumbed behind the kick panel on the passenger side to the floor, where it passes underneath the sill plate via 5/16 inch steel fuel line, where after it converts back to rubber line which goes as individual circuits to the top and bottom of the cylinders. When the car returns from the rumor shop, I will complete some engine detailing that I had planned. In mid-November the car will return to the trimmer shop and will receive a new leather interior. My intention is to have the seats front and back reupholstered in the ox blood tuck and roll pattern. The door panels and kick plates which are currently covered in the original painted fabric Will likely be replaced with leather as well as the original fabric is no longer available. The photo attached shows what is believed to be the second top installed on the car. My trimmer indicates that the tack strips show A second series of holes which indicates that this is at least the second top that has been on the car. Notice how much the Black on tan fabric has faded. Also noticed the text strip around the upper body edge. The original cork tack will be removed and replaced with a hard PVC tack. this week I will open up the Grainger catalog, and start sourcing replacement screws for all of the hard connections in the top mechanism. I see that you're located in New York, if you're not too far away would be great to connect with you in person someday soon. Cheers, Mark

What paint did you use to spray the bows?

@fede i got these in the mail on Friday. They'll be off to our garage in the NL tomorrow. I'll have my mechanic send photos when they are installed. forst observations, good quality. Looks like they will do the job well.

As it happens my convertible was dropped to the trimmer shop on Friday. He will be removing and installing a new haartz top for me. Part of the deal is that he allows me time to repaint the bows while the top is off. I will be able to make photos for you likely mid week.

The law states that if a rock hits the outer glass lens, the inner bulb must stay illuminated.

Our shop is prepping a P15 in the Netherlands at the moment for delivery to a customer in Luxembourg. The MOT will not accept sealed beam headlamps so we just bought a pair of these to install.

no problem Tom, happy to help. By the way I'm the same mark that Bob Drown referred you to on Facebook in case you hadn't already figured that out. Cheers!

Good news is that these parts are easy to find here. You'be got plenty of options, eBay is always a first check for me, and then there are two great vendors here in Massachusetts. Oldmoparts.com and Robertsmotorparts.com there is a company here in mass that will rebuild your fuel pump, but I'd just order a replacement as they are not expensive and will get you up and running quicker. The complete breaker plate is also with points will be found at oldmoparts, but you will need to call them as I don't believe they have them listed on their website. the condenser and points will need to be bought separate from the plate. Remember to check the small red wire in the photo for damage as these are known to fray over time and give headaches. need help collecting parts drop me a call as I am 30 minutes from both vendors. mark d

You've tried the Plymouth Doctors website?

Heat is your best friend in this situation. Heat the part you are trying to remove.

No the engine appears to have been factory silver in color.

This tag is mounted to the (assumed) rebuilt engine in my convertible. The tag is mounted on the block over the original serial number location which has been machined off the block. I've read here that lots of places rebuilt engines, (even sears had them I believe) and as you can see from the image its hard to see what may have been written on the tag. I have checked the stroke and confirmed it is set up as a 230. Stampings may indicate it was bored over slightly, thus the 235? From what I can tell this car spent its entire life in Massachusetts. Wondering if anyone else has seen this tag shape and may have a better image of what else was printed on it.

Great question! I gave up with the new style and sourced an NOS which was much easier to install.

Ebay has them all the time. 1940-1950 Mopar Air And Oil Filter Water Slide Decals | eBay http://r.ebay.com/kqWsg4