Mark D
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Everything posted by Mark D
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From my experience in the north east, serial number is synonymous with “VIN”. I’ve only come across one yet that was registered with the motor number and that car was a 1940 p10.
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The original rubbers were stapled to the steel in your photos.
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The metal strips do indeed support a rubber fin that is meant to close the gap between the radiator and the hood. This purpose is to deflect the air coming via the grille thru the radiator and not up and over.
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Interesting to learn this, I had assumed all the Motorola radios worked the same thru the 40’s.
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Pull the silver caps off the buttons and dial in your station with the small dial under that cap. Then replace the silver cap.
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I'm not 100% sure what Chrysler called it but this paint was a near 100% match for the steering wheel that I repaired and repainted. The wheel matched the column. I also just searched the paint color name on this forum and its been used a few time by others here. https://repaintsupply.com/sem-15023-cordovan-brown-color-coat-vinyl-paint-p996.html?utm_source=google-shopping&utm_medium=organic&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsOHIkJ2n4AIVR1SGCh3VBAlZEAQYASABEgIlJvD_BwE
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Thanks for the info guys. While I appreciate the value of the scans for portability, I think I will chase one of these vintage Carter Manuals. Will go good on the shelf with the rest of my collection of vintage Mopar service and reference manuals.
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I'm looking for a resource that I suspect existed at one time, maybe still does? Specifically some sort of publication that describes the differences between the B+B Carter Carbs from the 30's -50's. Any one have any links to reference materials? Names of books I can search? Example: Would be nice to see something that gave basics for what the difference is between and D6G2 and D6H1. thanks in advance, Mark D
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Shane is a good friend of mine. I've seen the car you bought up close a year or so ago, when it was with the prior owner also a friend I'd made out that way. All good people and I am sure you will have this car up and running in no time. Love to hear what your plans are for it and what progress you've made. Mark D
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I believe it is Cordovan brown.
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Yes, it’s called a tack strip and a modern equivalent is available. Just bought for my convertible top last year from a mail order. Search convertible roof tack strips.
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Right-o bore and stroke are indeed different. But I’m curious as to any reference materials that might be out there explaining the differences in the 201, 218, and 230 blocks.
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Last fall I bought a 1940 P10 business coupe. The owner claimed the car had the engine replaced sometime in the past and that the former engine was in the trunk. When I got the car home I removed said engine from the trunk and took these accompanying photos. These past sat few days I’ve been thinking about beginning my first engine rebuild and thought this block might make a good candidate. A couple questions for you guys in advance: - is this a P10 engine? The third character appears to be a letter I... - if this is a P10 201 engine can it be rebuilt as a 230? Thanks - Mark
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Came across a bunch of photos posted on the Hudson Terraplane Facebook page the other day of a fella that built custom fit skirts for his car. The images tell a great story of how he made the skirts with his English wheel, bead roller, and expander/shrinker, and spot welder. He made a couple for his buddy's as well, but noted that they take so much time to produce there was no profit in it. Hope you enjoy the photos as much as I did.
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My bet, the original post would have had more pics if he wasn’t trespassing to get them. Base your call on what you see, I base mine on the one that’s in my garage.
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The ass end of the convertible was made from business coupe sheet metal. The doors in the image are correct for the car. Tell us more, a couple of us convertible owners have started a registry on Facebook for these cars. Interested to have the current/future owner participate there, no matter the intention for renovation or not.
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That’s real.
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It’s likely down for service. But i’d Just call Chris Paquin (the owner) or email. serviceabap@oldmoparts.com
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Standard Plymouth issued wheel chock.
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Bought a new gadget I hopefully won't have to use.
Mark D replied to BobT-47P15's topic in P15-D24 Forum
For six volt jumping, I’d suggest avoiding hooking this directly to the battery terminals. Although the leads on your device appear to be too short, the safer method to bypass sensitive aging electrics would be to place key in the run position, positive clamp to positive battery post, then use the negative clamp to touch the top post on the the starter until the car starts. -
Chris Paquin (the new owner of Bernbaums) also sells the same tank.
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ive bought several new old style tanks from Vintage American Parts (Michael Warshaw) in NY. He advertises on eBay also. The tanks are good quality, well made, and pretty faithful to the original design. Updating this response with picture I had taken at the time I replaced the tank. They show side by side comparison and a (upside down) shot of the gas pick-up and drain internal to the new tank.
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Spoke to his son Shane tonight on the phone. Shane carried the load of his failing parents for many years also. Not easy for any of them at the moment. One thing for sure, Bob sure sets a good example as to how to approach the late days of life, lessons that will stick with me when I get there. Good to know that the wayback machine, Bob, and Cooper his gps will always be cruising the eternal byways together.
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The 4th Annual P-15 Picnic in the UK (pictures)
Mark D replied to Robin (UK)'s topic in P15-D24 Forum
Such an honor to take the wheel, (and brave of Robin for doing so!). Truth be told, no problems driving lefty on the left, plenty of experience from two years tenancy in Ireland in the 90’s, and I’ve spent a lot of time in Sydney Australia in the past 18 months for work. Would be nice to see some trucks in a future picnic! I think Tom Poulter will be the first to bring one when he’s finished his own.
