Mark D

We had a great weekend with our English Plymouth brothers and sisters! From the fantastic period appropriate hotel, to the lovely little pub down the road, to the marvelous historic tours provided. And the warm greeting received by all we met along the way, and I can’t forget to mention how welcome the three gents that arranged it all made each of us feel. The weekend was fantastic and over all to quickly. Delighted to have met everyone in person and to have made a few more friends over the weekend. I’m absolutely sure we will return in years to come. Take a look at the pic attached and I’m sure you see the smile on my face as Robin gave me the wheel for a few miles of smiles.

Picked up this sweet D24 a month ago. Prepped her for shipping to our garage in Rotterdam Netherlands this morning. She’ll make someone in the EU real happy. But before that I had to make the opportunity to get a P15-D24 shot happen. Next week Greg G and and I, together with our wives are off to the P15 picnic, so I just had to get some drive time in.

Tim - I thought I had read there was some coolant circulating in to the head around the head bolts. I recall when I replaced my head gasket 7 years ago that the studs had wet rusty coolant all over the relief. Apologies but I must be mistaken as to the coolant passages. Thanks again for the lesson, but quite frankly the format of your last two sentences is quite off-putting.

Can you please explain how the factory head differs?

I’m looking at your pic and the first question I have is what kind of head bolts did you use? They don’t appear at first glance to be arp, as they are polished. The correct bolts are relieved on the sides to allow for water flow around the bolts. Got pics of the bolts?

Whose the rebuilder? I’m in Mass would be handy to know for the future.

The ones that come with the offenhauser intakes are junk, don’t bother. I built mine from RC joints, flat stock, and basic list supplied for andual Holley setup. Will find the link and foawrd it to you via PM.

hey all - Got a guy calling on me to help him rebuild/service his P10 speedo. The rotating face of the gauge has come apart with age and likely heat. I assume this is old celluloid film it was printed on. Wondering if anyone has rebuilt this with success, or if anyone might have a serviceable unit for sale that I could salvage for parts? Advice appreciated. Mark D .

I've used pop rivets in place of the factory wire staples.

Thought the remote throttle cable did that for you.

Kleenex dispenser. They are fetching $50-75 each in ebay at the moment.

Is there a web site for this event? Likely to know more. Thanks.

One caution automotive fabrics and cloth from the local bolt shop are not necessarily of the same caliber. Managing 2.5 millions square feet of corporate home office I have had the opportunity to learn all about fabrics and wear testing. “Butt rubs” as they call it is the measure of quality. Make sure you go for fabrics that are intended for upholstery.

Yes - they have a horrible reputation also. But this is the closest I’ve found. In the end I decided to stay all leather. But I might add some accents in the future on the door panels and that willl keep the cost down. Sadly I don’t know of any alternatives.

Two words : “beer fridge”

A good and thorough service of the drivetrain and engine bay should result in happily achieving 55mph (and in my humble opinion: fast enough) speeds for your beautiful black Betty. What a nice car!

Typically two bolts at the bottom of the backrest are threaded into the body floor pan. Remove bolts and lift the back rest off of the clips which are welded into the body.

Helping out a friend in Finland whose got a p15 that he imported this past summer. He’s trying to find a rear axle that has a gear set for better highway speeds. Gave him photos out of one of the p15 parts catalogs I have for the ratios that were offered from p14-p24. He’s found an a guy nearby that has an axle but it has numbers that don’t correspond to what I sent him. Supposedly this axle came out of a 1950 dodge convertible but we don’t know if it original to the car. Also in a past conversation with One of you gurus there was mention that there was a way to tell what gear set was installed in the pinion from markings on the case? Still working on my first coffee of the morning, So I may still be a little under caffeinated. Appreciate guidance here.

Looks be about the same age as my grandson Jace. 14 months old, he loves looking at the pictures of the P 15‘s that are hung in my office. Seen here sitting on what day what will be his car.

Been a while since I updated this thread. Made another milestone this past weekend and installed my new leather interior. Leather came from a Garrett Leather in NY, and at $9/sf it was certainly and investment. Took five hides to cover everything and there were still some areas that I chose to cover in Vinyl such as the rear seat side bolsters and rear of the front seat. New door cards and kick panels were sourced from a company called remautoinc.com. They were advertised as made to OE measurements, but the door cards were too short and the kick panels needed to be cut down to fit. Would do those again from scratch if I was not rushed to get this part of her refresh done. Next up new black wall tires, shocks x4, new rear spring bushings, and front sway bar bushings to tighten her roll in corners. Custom made carpet will be completed next week. After that a new parade boot and Tonneau.

I knew this would be something that is a uniquely American product. So I included the wiki photo.

Another use for NEATS foot oil. The valves inside the wiper motor are leather. I’ve restored two motors with this product.

I thought at first you might be referring to one of these, but it seems you’ve got the answer. This is a trico vacuum booster. Used to supplement and correct for poor vacuum conditions. I’ve got this recently in one of the p15’s I bought and have started the install in my p15 conv to see if it will assist the top operation. Ps nice speaking with you this morning!