1941Rick

What rims are you running? When I swapped mine over to radials we had to find valve stems to fit the oval hole in the rim....appearantly tube rims have a different hole from non tube......just something to be aware of......

I had heating problems as well.....160 thermostat and the car was running 190 plus. Went the electric fan route. On a toggle switch. would run it when pulling a hill.....still over heated. The fan was a so called "reversable fan". In other words efficient when pulling but very inefficient when pushing. I was going to have the rad flushed, but years of working on heavy machinery I was reluctant to do this because you do not get the inside of the cores all that clean. The block was boiled out at overhaul 2 years ago. I removed the electric fan and tossed it and put in a new aluminum rad and now it runs in the 160-170 range. Pertonix---there has been disscussion about problem with this system before...might find something in the archives. Good luck

Round trip from Campbell River to West Yellowstone with 14 other cars last summer....2200 miles. In the future going down the west coast of Washington and Oregon to Bend Oregon. 25 cars this time. Round trip will bring in another 2500 miles....with lots of room left on the odometer yet.

Very nice trophy......like they say "the first one is special"

Why not buy an electric one. Will measure actual hours used...the ones that use engine revolutions to calculate hours count 100,000 revolutions to equal 1 hour. If you are working buy the hour you would want an electric one.

Looks like it is time to get into the master cylinder. Not holding back pressure in the system. Was thinking of installing a dual system. What experiences are out there and what recomendations for a master cylinder? I am sure there will be some fab work involved but I am up to the task.

My starter has been on steroids (12v) for 3 years....was rebuilt prior to going 12 volt. Don...you may be right about the cluck because you are using a solinoid? Mine is a kick start, not an issue

If you go all the way on it I would use the 6 volt starter on 12 volts......quicker easier starting......

Welcome to old world ignition systems......find a shop that still has an engine analyzer. they will find out where the miss comes from on the scope.

Nice pictures.....a few years ago I made a 2 month trip to the east coast (truck and camper) and Vermont was one of my favs. It was an old route and cannot remember the number. Lots of old covered bridges and cool towns. Would love to make the trip in the old 41.

My 41 had the same problem. Found that the wrong oil pan was installed, causing the tie rod to contact the oil pan. Could not turn as sharp to the left. Don't know how yours is configured but worth a look.

Nice bit of info Don......will this work on a 41?

It dont mater

Its all about lag....no lag with superchargers as compared to a turbo.......top fuel engines defy the laws of physics anyway.

Running without a thermostat will exasperate the heating problem. The thermostat opens and closes to control the temp. While the thermo is closed the radiator is cooling the water that is not moving. Usually around 10 degrees. When the themo opens coolant flows into the rad and the cooler collant flows to the engine. Now with that being said if you run without a thermo the coolant does not stay in the rad long enough to cool down. The engine temp then increases and will continue to increase. Remember these cooling systems are non pressure.. I run a 160 with no problems, even when the temps are in the 100's.

It should come with the new filter.......fiber or copper will work

They are part of the "Factory Air" option.....

Be happy as long as you can.............

Save your money and convert to electronic......converting to a slant six system is easy and cheap.....and so much more dependable....

Somebody think it was oiled?.....there is a plug that can be removed to get some grease in there at service time.

Took my 41 on a road trip last summer. 2000miles. There was 14 cars and the old girl was one of the few that did not have a problem. Only spare part I took was a fan belt. This year we are going down the west coast of Washington and Oregon, over to the big show in Bent then up the Okanogan vally back home. 2500 plus miles....The only worry I have is the other cars......Like a Timex watch these cars keep on tickin.

Stick around Andy, this would be a lesser place without you.......Like has been said in proir post, " there are not many STOCK cars here anyway".

You are right it is a hobby. There is no such thing as fun that does not cost money. Boy am I having fun...

If not shaving the head is not in the books, have it checked for true ness. .010 shave would not affect anything but the head gasket. I did the shave, twin carbs, and headers and with out dyno testing I do not think it made a lot of difference. For me it was the cool factor. But thats just me.

It is not hard to spend a bucket of cash on a car to get a cool cruiser. Then you find out you can get a few cents on the dollar for them. If they were chev of ford they would bring bigger bucks. I keep all receipts just for insurance purposes. Have to be able to prove its worth at least 25G.