1941Rick
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Everything posted by 1941Rick
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I used the same radiator....had to cut the 90 off the top...looks better.....0 pressure cap 160 thermo stat and never gets over 170.....stock fan....cant beat the price for sure. Been in for 2 years no issues.
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Not sure how the M6 works......I have a R10 OD 6 volt and it is operating on 12 volts with no issues at all......Down shifting was set up the same, cutting out ignition momentarily. I have done away with that and have a downshift button on the gear shift knob.
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Would it not be easier to just convert to 12 volt......
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I was thinking more like an older 3.9 or even a 3.7. 3.6 is far to new.
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Exactly...that is why I am thinking V6......For all those extras you mentioned I might as well just drive my every day car......Optima.....
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If I go this way I will not put in "all" the creature comforts......want to keep the stock look but when the hood goes up the Wow Factor takes over. I get that with the flatty right now. You see lots of V8's but very few V6's. Have found the parts to build a Hyper Slant Six, but they are too long. Not going to chop a firewall.......
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Disc brakes in this winter...... Suspension is up to the job......
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My biggest concern is the electronics.......Shop and fabbing no problem... I would prefer to not put in a clip.....
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Anyone use a Dakota 3.9 or 3.7 V6? Run into ant difficulties? My L6 is sick and am thinking of a V6.
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The only time you need a heat riser is if you drive in cold conditions....Mine is gone due to headers and never had a problem right down to freezing. Block it off. dont leave the hole there as you will have fuel problems......
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I wont comment on aircraft engines but I run 20/50 Pennzoil in my flatty with no trouble what so ever. idles 35psi hot and cruises 45-50psi Put oil in gas you get smoke.....
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Sounds like you have to remove the residual vale from the master cylinder... Question.....why not a dual master cylinder?
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Dick41, as for the fuel gauge, I wired in a small dash light bulb. Slows down the swing of the guage. Needle moves very fast when left full 12 volts. Accuracy is as good as the original 6 volt. Only place I used a voltage reducer was for the 6v heater motor.
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Chevron RPM 90 is GL1 as well
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One of the linkages has an adjustment, this selects reverse and first..... As you pull the lever on the column towards you you move this rod. Common problem being out of adjustment. Adjust the linkage so there is no play. you may need to adjust one way or another to get it to shift into reverse easily....
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1940 Plymouth Trunk Handle removal/replacement
1941Rick replied to Andydodge's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Good timing Andy. I had the same issue with my 41......I went to a hardware store and found a plastic pipe fitting that would slide over the shaft of the handle. Then ground away the outer plastic until I had a very thin bushing. Nice and snug now. Good luck -
If you have the right dual master Cylinder there should be no residual valve for the disc side. I put a dual master in this spring and put an inline 2 lb residual on the front and a 10 lb on the shoes out back. Make sure your brake lines are correctly connected to the MC. The small resivour is for the front.
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My question would be.....is the plate for the heat riser still intact?
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Was the oval hole to accommodate the inner tube stem?
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I had the same requirement a few years ago. Could not find the right stems. I ended up using round one until I could get ovals one....they are still in there with no issues.
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LOL....could not find a good picture of my 218 .040 overbore, .040 shaved head, twin carbs and Redman Headers.......so I put in a photo of an I wish engine
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Welcome.....nice ride.......The flat head is my choice....but its your car..
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Been running mine on 12 volts for 4 years ....no issues......I used a Bosch 30 amp relay.....available everywhere.....
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Scott......You will not improve the filtering by putting on a "spin-on filter". The system is "Bypass". The oil is bypassed from the oil gallery to the filter then returned to the sump. Don't confuse this with a full flow system where all the oil goes thru the filter then on to the bearings. The old bypass does a good job of filtering and I have found it not a hassle to change. I change oil once a year regardless of mileage. My car is a daily driver in the summer.
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If you want to run 65mph up hill with a/c on, you have the wrong engine.....bump it up 100 cu in. 318. I have 218 , 3 spd O/D, 3.9 gears. Strong 218 as well......steep hills I go out of O/D and run up at 55mph. Remember the higher the ratio the more power it will require to move the car. Thats why they came out with 4.0 and 3.9 gears. As for hurting the engine...I would worry about the clutch first.
