MattWalker

Wow, this spurred a lot of discussion. I think I used the wrong word, "soft". The pedal is always firm but gets very very low. So low once it touched the floor. Then I adjust the minor adjusters and the pedal is high again. The odd part it gets quite low over the course of only 100 miles or so. I have the Aramco 1750 tool which I used when the shoes were new. Every part on the brake system is new. Cylinders, drums, shoes, springs, master cylinder, bearings, seals, hoses, lines.... The master is a 1 inch dual chamber which I initially thought was the issue but it seems to work well now. It really seems like the minor adjusters are slipping but have not heard of that happening from anybody else. Maybe the shoes are still arching? Probably been about 600 miles on the shoes and drums.

The p15 has a new gas tank, fuel pump, pcv. system and is running better than ever. Even added a redirad to listen to relicradio. Been driving it everywhere with no problems. Drove it out to stone mountain, had a great time until I noticed the brakes were getting way soft, almost to the floor. I did a minor adjustment(did a major one on fresh shoes and drums about 600 miles ago with Aamco tool) and after that, pedal was firm and high. Drove it another 100 or so, started getting lower again. So two questions: 1. How often do you guys do minor adjustments? 2. Any chance those minor adjusters are slipping?

Definately fuel issue, took top of carb off, bowl dry, added gas, car fired right up and then died about a minute later. So either clogged line or fuel pump . Took fuel line off and cranked engine, got some spurts but no steady stream...rebuild pump first?

Also this is probably a dumb question but how do you check for spark, actually remove a plug and crank the engine?

So I have not had much time to work on it and my battery keeps dying from cranking it which doesn't help. I think it might be a fuel issue because I noticed if I pull the throttle knob wide open, like 3 inches out, the engine will start and rev up but I have to push it in because the rpm are so high and then it dies. my fuel pump has a glass bowl on it which is full though... don't know if that rules that out or not. Also I tried pouring gas in the carb throat and noticed most of it runs out the side and down onto the manifold,, is that normal? isn't it supposed to go into the intake? At least it hasn't been towed. I'm gonna go try again in the morning and try the stuff suggested here. I may need a new battery, those duralasts from AutoZone are terrible, I have gone through a few in just a few years. Maybe I should spend the money and get a glass battery. Thanks for all the help.

So I've been driving the p15 around town, everything has been doing fine. I went and took it for an oil change. Drove it back to the office on a nice 30 mile drive, but on the way back home... the engine started acting funny, wouldn't accelerate, car started jerking, and then died. This was on I-75N going about 60 during rush hour, wasn't very fun. Anyway, I got the car towed home, put some gas in it from the garage to see if it was just out of gas(gauge works sometimes) and it fired right up... So thinking that was the only issue, I took it out for another spin to the gas station, drove just fine, put some more gas in it. Headed home and on the way home, the engine died all at once with no warning. And there it has sat for 3 days, luckily not towed away yet. I got it to run once for about 5 minutes and I let the battery charge up and then bam, died again. Then another time for about 1 minute. But most attempts to start it, the engine revs a couple times like it might start and then dies. It seems to get it to fire at all I have to pump the accelerator like 10 times before pushing the ignition. So I am a little baffled. I don't think it is the fuel pump because when I pump the throttle repeatedly, fuel is getting squirted in just fine. I thought maybe the battery was the issue so I charged it up and still couldn't get it to go. Coil, swapped it, no change. Could it be the gas from the garage was bad? I only put about a gallon in but I put about 7 in from the gas station. Could it be the points? Condensor? Plugs? Any help appreciated.

thanks for the replies. I couldn't find the national parts cap but I did find the stant cap. I ordered the same one in chrome which is 11070 and it fits perfectly. http://www.amazon.com/Stant-11070-Oil-Filler-Cap/dp/B000C846S2/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1407208077&sr=1-1&keywords=stant+11070

Finally managed to work on the Plymouth and got one side of the pcv system installed, the crank case to manifold side. Works well but engine is running a little hotter... too lean due to more air? Does anybody know a part number to a breather cap that fits the p15 that has a pcv hose port on it? guess I could make one but with a 6 month old, I'm lucky to get 5 minutes a week for this car. took me 5 months just to install the first part!!

I took the carb off while working on installing the pcv, should I rebuild it while it is off? it is fine as far as I know... Also I noticed that before I took it off, the bolts holding it to the manifold were loose, like a full turn or so, is that odd? must have let air in that gap big time. I guess I never shook it before cuz when I did it was obviously loose. I suppose the air intake support arm held it steady somewhat as well.

Started taking stuff apart...I noticed the air intake support arm bolt goes right in through the wall of the housing. I stuck a wire in, fed right through.... has anybody run a pipe fitting into that hole for the line running to the breather pipe?

After a long conversation with the guys at Vintage Power Wagons, who are very nice and helpful and put up with my thousands of questions, I ordered two parts, the pcv valve and the crank case fitting. They told me after looking at my manifold that their stock PCV system would not work but I could attempt to plumb it myself. The other choice was to have another hole machined in my manifold which sounded like a bit much. At least I need to only worry about the pieces in between. I am not the most able at this stuff but I am going to give it a try. I hope I have it done it time for spring. Next Savannah trip will hopefully be fume free in the cabin. The two parts plus shipping from IA to GA was 51 bucks..., not sure what the plumbing in between will cost. But given that a new road draft tube was 40, didn't seem so bad. Thanks for all the help guys.

I got that can off, this is all that was there. Looks like the cap and the filter element, no tube...

I agree that is definitely the can for the draft tube. Where can I get all the parts for the PCV, is vintage power wagons the best bet?

Yep, you are 100% right. I didn't realize it was a can and separate tube. so can I simply add another tube? how the heck did that come off? maybe that's y I get so much smoke in the cabin?

Here are some pics, it was hard to photograph the plug but I think that is the hole where the road draft tube went. Also in the other pic you can see the one port for the wiper but its the only port I see.