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1941Rick

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Everything posted by 1941Rick

  1. 1941Rick
    Bleed the brakes....can be a bitch to bleed some times....had the same issue with the brake pedal and fixed it by bleeding the brakes.....goint to disc on front and dual master cylinder. Got lots of front brakes parts if anyone looking.
  2. 1941Rick
    I have been using Pennzoil Syncromesh oil, no problems.......
  3. 1941Rick
    Sherms Plating in Sacramento.....pricey but well worth it....... http://shermsplating.com/
  4. 1941Rick
    Robert....are you familiar with the guy in Flatla?
  5. 1941Rick
    I quit going to swap meets looking for old mopar stuff. Just go for the social aspect of it...... You drive one of those other cars and you can find lots of stuff. Nice to be different.
  6. 1941Rick
    I am going to follow this thread. Something to funny here. is the spacer supposed to make up the difference between the bearing and the spindle sizes? I just converted mine and used the original hub and bearings. Different supplier.
  7. 1941Rick
    dont forget the pilot bearing....can cause the same thing
  8. 1941Rick
    Don't overlook the pilot bearing. If it is dragging it will turn the input shaft no matter how you adjust the clutch.
  9. 1941Rick
    The puller should work for you. Put the nut and washer back on so there drum does not injure you. You say 200 ft lb impact....that is a toy. You need something in the range of 500 or more. Crank it up as tight as possible and hit the forcing screw a leathal blow. If it does not come off a very hot torch on the hub should work. While under pressure from the puller.
  10. 1941Rick
    Change the oil, put in fresh gas and start it up....it will tell you the next move......shes ugly on the outside, but could be jewel on the inside.....
  11. 1941Rick
    6 volt starter in good condition will take 12 volts as long as the engine is a sound runner
  12. 1941Rick
    Pan gaskets are readily available. Got mine from Lordco. NAPA should have them as well. Any sludge in the oil pan has turned to concrete by now after all that time. Replace what oil is in there and try to start it up. What can you harm. If it runs good, pull the pan and clean it up and run a non detergent oil. You have an old engine that is full of sludge and leave it where it is. If does not run good the solution is obvious.
  13. 1941Rick
    I have a feeling silly bidders will come out for this one.
  14. 1941Rick
    I used an aluminum rad from Performance Cooling. Never overheats even in 100 plus heat. Make sure you tell them it is for a 1948 Ply. Also give them the measurements of the old one. Otherwise you will end up with a rad 1/2 the size. Boiling a rad should clean it externally. Its internally that is the problem
  15. 1941Rick
    Just because you boiled the rad does not mean it is clean inside. It sounds like you still have a problem with the rad. Look to see if there is any way hot air pulled by the fan can recirculate to the front. If the air loops around nothing you do will help other than remove the hood. I
  16. 1941Rick
    I hope you realize the brake drum has a different offset....
  17. 1941Rick
    What I did was use 2 Bosch relays. Power normally closed on the first one and normally open on the second. When I want out of OD at any speed I simply push the button on the shift knob and this opens the first relay cutting power to the second ( which powers the od sol ) and just take my foot off the gas and walla out of OD. This way I am in control of the function at any speed, not just wide open throttle. Comes in handy around town and going down hill.
  18. 1941Rick
    There are as many opinions as there are cars with or with out. I converted mine to the slant six dizzy to cure the bucking and farting that was going on with the points set up. This only happened under hard acceleration. Never had a moments trouble after the conversion. As for the OD, I have a manual kickdown switch on the gearshift knob.
  19. 1941Rick

    A Test

    1941Rick replied to Don Coatney's topic in P15-D24 Forum

    Burning bunker fuel???? Is the build up sticky? Looks like tar. What kind of oil was used?
  20. 1941Rick
    I hope I am reading this wrong......The shield is an oil seal. Why would you want to seal the oil from entering the bearing? I have rebuilt mine and there is NO shield on either side. When the retainer is correctly installed there is a return hole for the oil to get back to the trany. I have never had a drop of oil enter the clutch housing. If you are hung up on the sheild, install it so the bearing is exposed to the oil in the case. MHO
  21. 1941Rick
    Just had a fuel pump problem during a recent trip to Bend Ore. Was really hot and the engine sputtered and then quit. First thing that came to mind was a vapor lock. No fuel in the carbs. Turned out that the fairly new pump was not pumping fuel due to the pivot pin of the pump lever had moved out and the level fell off. Luckily I was able to put it back together and it then ran fine. Starting fluid is a very dangerous product to use on any engine. Popular to use on diesel engines. Overuse can take out the rings and damage the cylinder walls. In my shops I would not allow its use. If it wont run on its required fuel, fix the problem, do not create more.
  22. 1941Rick
    Sounds like a fantastic trip......just go where your nose points.....
  23. 1941Rick
    Any members at the show in Bend Oregon?
  24. 1941Rick
    Are you talking about those sunglasses that go over eye glasses?
  25. 1941Rick
    Best part is he was given the car by the previous owner........
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