1941Rick

Rotation should not require lots of torq until you instal the rear seal. If you are using the rope type seal it will get tight. The crank should rotate freely by it self and get progressively harder as you instal pistons, and the rear seal.

quick and easy way to get it out is to run a tap into the valve then insert a bolt and like pulling teeth it is out... Cant remember the tap size but worked for me.

Has your timing chain streched to the point it has gone out or time so far it will not start? There is a plug on # 6 cylinder beside the spark plug. Remove it and slide a steel rod into the hole and turn the engine by HAND. Once you have established TDC, check your tdc mark on the pulley. If there is no sign of the mark rotate the engine one more time and check again. You can also remove the dist cap and rock the engine back and forth while watching the rotor. There should be no lag in the rotation of the rotor. If there is, its because of a timing chain problem. Or find a mechanic to help you out.. there are so many things that could trip you up if you are not familiar with engines.

218 cu in, twin BB carbs, Reds headers and overdrive gives me 22 mpg imperial. do not drive over 60 mph. If you are running stock setup with low gears at highway speeds you will not get good mileage.

Switched mine over a couple of years ago. As for the starter, take it out and have it rebuilt. ie..new brushes and turn the communtator and all will be fine. These guys start so easy the starter hardly has a chance to get spinning. Even my 6v heater is running 12v.

Was a trick we used in high hour diesel engines. Got rid of the carbon prior to a rebuild.

Rodney....what temp range is your thermostat?

Was a cure for gm's running on....with the engine at a high idle slowly pour a bottle of water down the car. The water will break the carbon loose and blow it out the tail pipe. Now for stubborn carbon you do the same thing except use small grain rice. Just like sandblasting but not as agressive. Worst that can happen is the rice gets packed into the carbon. But in that case the head has to come off anyway.

A 327 sbc and a 4 speed make this car that much more special.....

In my humble opinion the 66 is the best ever looking Acadian that was ever built. don't know how much of the 64 you will be able to use. Ever give thought to a 700-R4 trans. Makes for a very affordable highway driver.

One thing not to lose sight of is it is a Power Wagon. Unless you are prepared to throw lots of money at is you will always have poorer fuel economy. One of the fellas that cruises with us has taken his PW and put it on a newer dodge chassis with a 5.9 Cummins. Now you are talking torq and he gets better then 22 MPG. US. There are many options for you. Will give it to you for trying to keep the Flatty. Makes heads turn when ever the hood is open. As for fitting a reground 25" crank in a 23" engine. Will that work even tho there is a 2" difference in the blocks?

Love it when a plan comes together

Good find.....

If the engine was not up to the operating range of the thermostat when you say you could see the water circulating you have just answered your question........thermostat is stuck partially open...

I would say a rebuilders tag as well.....Model 217A...hmmm maybe a 217?

My Biz coupe has access from the interior to the trunk via a door behind the passenger seat. Behind the drivers seat is the spare tire accessed from inside the passenger compartment. Some cars had shelves behind the driver and the spare was in the trunk.

The key is to have a round brake band and adjust the band so it is of equal gap around the drum. Then adjust the cable last. Remember it is a park brake and if it is adjusted properly it will hold just fine.

Yes you need the cable...the kickdown switch operation can be removed if you follow some of the other post on how to put in a dash switch or a switch in the gear shift knob. I have the push button on the gear shift knob to control kickdown. I would like to find a solenoid to replace the cable. Have not looked hard tho...

I would say that if it is a high miler this is normal wear. The top shell has an oil groove. I have also heard where guys buy 2 sets of bearings and put 2 uppers to get better oiling. Poor maintenence will also cause the crank to wear like that.

All the best in your journey....yes enjoy the old mopars as they were intended..

The controller for the slant 6 is the only part you will see as different. The distributor is the same size as original. No room issues at all. I have a GM 6 dist and went with the slant 6 for the reasons you did not go with the slant six.....different strokes for different folks. Thats the beauty of keeping these old cars going. Everyone has their own ideas. you can always find something here you wished you had thought of. At the end of the day they burn gas and are cool to drive around.

Distributor........$5.00 ECU orange box..$55.00 Wiring harness....Free (donated by a friend) Also have heard Pertronix is not as reliable....

Still Mopar.....had the pieces collected over the last while. did not like the price of the Pertronix. If I was to do another and had all the parts sitting there I could do it in an hour or so....was not hard at all.

Just finished the install of a slant 6 electronic distributor and ECU.... Happy Happy Happy..... Very simple install and the results are very noticable. No more sputtering upon hard acceleration, radio noise gone and a spark that looks like a plasma arc....Looking forward to the week-end and a short road trip to give it the big test......Then Yellowstone Park

You will have to change up to 12 volts.....voltage is important for the ECU according to the instructions i have.. http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/elecignconv.pdf