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ghowie12

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  • My Project Cars
    1948 Plymouth Special Deluxe 4 dr
    1967 Imperial Crown Convertible
    1965 Plymouth Fury III convertible
    1929 Chrysler 75 Rumble Seat Opera coupe

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  • Location
    Northern Wisconsin
  • Interests
    varied
  1. Yes, I think it is only missing the windshield visor. IT even has rock guards for the rear shocks which I am told is quite rare. Some are probably owner added in the era. IT has an underhood light, fog lights, a manual operating backup light and an electric vacuum pump for the wipers. It also has a flip down sunglass for the rear view mirror and the lighted compass you can see.
  2. I am 67 and was brought up with Plymouths and Dodges. My first car I got in 1965 and it was a 1935 Plymouth 4 dr sedan with 40,000 miles on it. Paid $165 for it. Drove it all through high school. Towed a water ski boat with it in the summers and it was always reliable. Anyhow, when it was getting to be time to retire I looked for some nice Mopars and have ended up with a 1929 Chrysler 75 Opera Coupe, my 1948 Special Deluxe Plymouth with now 10900 original miles, a 1965 Fury III convertible and a 1967 Imperial convertible. A couple years ago on this forum people asked for some pics. One attached below and will post a couple in the next two notes if the files are small enough. All the others are too big. I'll have to take some pics with smaller files unless someone can tell me a way to upload individual pics larger than 3mb.
  3. Mr. Miller, I have one more question for you. In the process of looking for a couple spare wheels I have been told by Moore's in South Dakota that the gaps or spoke dimensions between the outer wheel and the center riveted in disk on the '48 Plymouth with the 15" wheel is different than the otherwise identical 15" 1949 new style Plymouth wheel. I see no mention of this in the judging standards you so graciously sent. Do you know if I am correct in presuming this detail is either unknown or unjudged? Any information you or other forum members have would have on this would be most appreciated. All the best,
  4. I would like to offer some alternative views on this subject. The oil bath works as described above but its effectiveness depends upon air velocity. At idle it does virtually nothing because the air velocity is too low to fling the dirt out. Second oil viscosity is important, the oil must be thick enough to not be easily sucked out by the velocity of air going by. It is not uncommon to find that at WOT/RPMs in 2nd gear to suck the oil out of the oil bath aircleaner. Third maintaining the exact oil level is extremely important in maintaining its effectiveness. If the oil level drops the cross sectional area for air flow increases so the air velocity goes down and the effectiveness of the air cleaner goes down. The only two good things about an oil bath air cleaner are 1-they are user serviced and cost virtually nothing to do so and 2-As they fill with dirt they do not restrict the airflow and richen the fuel air mixture by somewhat choking the engine IMHO opinion several changes over time have improved the life of engines, 1-more paved roads and less dusty gravel roads, 2-THe paper air cleaner element that is effective at all engine speeds, 3-Improved metallurgy in the engine 4-more powerful engines,more transmission gears and higher overall gearing resulting in fewer revolutions per mile and 5-Improved oil technology.
  5. Don't have any electronic pics that I can find and it is up on a lift in a crowded garage at the moment but will post some in a month or two.
  6. Well, I decided to go with Stainless sleeves at brakeplace since they would do the sleeveing only and bras folks insisted on doing the complete rebuild and I already had all the rebuild parts. They seemed knowledgeable when I talked to them and their 6 minute video of their machine shop looked good. I'll let you know how it all worked out in a decade or so. Thanks for the responses.
  7. Gents, I have searched forum and could not find any comments on what to lubricate the driveshaft with. My boots are like new and everything feels tight and am debating taking the boots off to look inside but wondering what is the recommended lubricant. Are these meant to be oil filled or are they greased. IF greased a wheel bearing type grease or a multipurpose or?? If this discussion already exists please direct me to it. All the best,
  8. Gents, I am looking for well justified opinions and long term experience with sleeved master and/or wheel cylinders ---IS BRASS OR STAINLESS best and what are the advantages and disadvantages of each. I diligently searched and did not find this discussed. I am finally getting to work on My 1948 P-15 and it just needs brakes and wheel/axle seals and it should be ready to go. My wheel cylinders look good but the master cylinder has a large rough spot in it from 4 to 8 O'clock. It doesn't look like pitting it looks like an original faulty casting. The car only has 10,800 miles on it. It looks like there isn't much cost difference between the options and I just want the brakes to be reliable and trouble free. I am replacing all hoses and rebuilding all cylinders and think I will switch to DOT 5 fluid. I drove a '35 Plymouth as my only car for 5 years so am well familiar with the brake system and my experience is they can be reliable with sufficient stopping power if everything is up to snuff. Many thanks and all the best,
  9. Thank you Mr. JCMiller. The attachment was very useful to me for a wide variety of items. I sincerely appreciate it.
  10. Amsoil makes a specific oil for older cars. In addition to the zinc issue it has extra anti-corrosion additives particularly useful for vehicles driven infrequently. IT is Z-ROD 10W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil Modern Technology For Classic Cars AMSOIL Z-ROD™ Synthetic Motor Oil is specially engineered for classic and high-performance vehicles. A high-zinc formulation to prevent wear on flat-tappet camshafts and other critical engine components, along with a proprietary blend of rust and corrosion inhibitors for added protection during long-term storage. A detailed description and all the marketing bumf can be seen at http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/z-rod-10w-30-synthetic-motor-oil/?code=ZRTQT-EA
  11. I did. IT was posted for sale in the Chrysler owners club magazine. THe car was originally from North Dakota. HAven't driven it much yet just going through all the small stuff needed to make it a reliable driver for the summer. Not much to do except brakes, adjust the tappets so it runs as quiet as an old flathead should, change fluids, replace pinion seal, check out points and plugs and replace if necessary. The clock and radio still work fine. It was nearly identical to the one my Dad bought new after he got out of the service.
  12. YEs I looked at Eastwood and one shot and everything else I could find on the internet. UNfortunately I do not have a usable sample of the original pinstripes to look at. BAsed upon the comments from A.L.F. I guess it is safe to assume that as long as it is a goldish kind of sparkly look it will be all right. IS that correct ALF?
  13. Folks, I am trying to find a correct color equivalent, paint number or similar for the required GOLD BRONZE color pinstriping called out for the wheels on a car with a kenwood green body color. I have searched here as best I can as well as on google and looking at various pin striping paint suppliers. I see numerous imitation gold color paints but wonder if there is any further knowledge amongst members. I have an all original 1948 4 dr Special Deluxe Plymouth with 10,800 original miles but unfortunately someone spray painted the wheels black. Its a shame, but I need to get them repainted and want to be as authentic as possible Many thanks,
  14. Does anyone have a specific brand and color number for this color to be used for the pinstripes on many wheels?
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