deathbound

+1 for me.....I think this thread applies to just about everybody who doesn't have a 230/OD & doesn't want to go the long block/V8 route.

You know what happens when you use that word. Non-registered people can scan/search the classifieds. Was any personal info in your ad, ie:phone#, etc. that would give him a way to contact you without being a member here?

Use heat shrink tubing for more support at the terminal ends.....I think they make adhesive lined tubing also.

Where is he located? Maybe there is a member nearby willing to help scope it out.

I know the pics are 10 years old, but that sure looks like Capt.Freds car.

That he (townwagon) is a member on here that sells the tool.

Yep, mentioned in post# 93.

It's been mentioned on here to match the cap/rotor to distributor....use the id tag info from the dizzy.

What the condition of the little jumper wire inside the distributor? Been a culprit for many. Just a thought.

Born & raised in So. Cal. & will probably die here too......not from drowning though. We conserve what we can (harder with 2 kids...teen/pre-teen), but if we do go over, I'll gladly pay. Just like gas, more expensive here than just about anywhere in the U.S., again, I'll gladly pay. I doubt California will dry up & blow away....it'll just take a while to come out of this drought. I'm less than 10 minutes from the beach & 1-1/2 hours from the mountains.....it's a no brainer. Oh yeah, on a side note, we're actually getting a little of that wet stuff right now!

Ditto what 46Ply said!

I think this member:http://p15-d24.com/user/236-townwagon/was selling switch nut removal tools. As far as the knobs, not sure about the '39, but the knobs on my '38 have a small hole & you depress the "spring steel", which allows me to slide the knob off the shaft.

The shock mounts are already the right color, but the shocks will stick out like a sore thumb.

Here are a couple on ebay....1 original style & 1 steel braided, less than $20 shipped, no affiliation with the seller: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-36-1937-1938-1939-1940-1941-PLYMOUTH-DODGE-CHRY-DESOTO-OIL-LINE/161699270763?rmvSB=true http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-36-1937-1938-1939-1940-1941-PLYMOUTH-DODGE-CHRY-DESOTO-BRAIDED-OIL-LINE-/161699270869?rmvSB=true

I saw that same sunset about 3 hours later. Great pics.

Search on youtube, lots of "how to's".

Exactly what mine is....looks like a small canister (with screen & mesh) with a cover plate the bolt goes through to hold it on the engine. It has a clamp for the tube. My car is a '38, the other type (tube only, no canister/filter) mentioned in this thread are said to be for later cars. Seems they went backwards in design????

Looking good!

Yes.

Your ebay link looks different than mine, which is from a 1938 201 ci motor. here are a few more pics, 3rd shown without tube, 2nd looking up without tube (screen/mesh shown), 1st orientation of tube:

Doesn't a PCV route fumes to the intake?

Road draft tube.

I think the stock springs are 1-3/4" wide, blocks are available in that width. I was able to modify the 2" wide aluminum blocks I had to fit my stock U-bolts with Posies lowered springs (which I also removed 2 leafs from). Watch eye to eye dimension & locating pin dimension on any springs you consider. Here are a few threads: http://p15-d24.com/topic/36989-lowering-the-rear-of-my-48-biz-coupe-and-have-questions/?hl=%2Bnew+%2Bways+%2Blower+%2Bthe+%2Brear#entry382572 http://p15-d24.com/topic/35853-lowering-the-rear-50-coupe/?hl=%2Bnew+%2Bways+%2Blower+%2Bthe+%2Brear#entry366465 http://p15-d24.com/topic/33585-new-ways-to-lower-the-rear-end/?hl=%2Bnew+%2Bways+%2Blower+%2Bthe+%2Brear

Why type an extra "h" in the link & say to remove it?

No, something like this: The short end threads into the hub, the long end has a recess for an allen wrench to tighten it into the hub. Don't know if LH thread is available, since both sides on my car are RH. Got them at the HP swap meet at Vets Stadium here in Long Beach.....Lug Nut King, I think. Check with Lug Nut King in Fontana, may have LH studs.