deathbound

Also, cap, rotor, etc should be specific to your model distributor (see tag on side) when ordering replacement parts.

Suggested wrong firing order because of the non-starting issue after everything was replaced.

I had a feeling this question was coming when you said you were going to check the rear brakes.....heavy duty drum puller. Check Tech tab at the top, go to brakes, or search function. *EDIT:Tech link under "Resources", "Tech", then "Brakes" @top of the page.

Wrong firing order/wires misplaced?

Welcome to the forum....very nice '37! I have a '38 P6 Coupe, which is nearly identical to yours, but not as nice. I'm running stock 16" wheels, Champion Super Deluxe bias ply wide white walls with tubes. My car was missing the same pin on the starter mechanism also, I used a 5/16" bolt with nylock nut (tight on the nut, but still loose in the hole) because it was what I had at the time. Not a big deal, but under your "project cars", shows "1939". *EDIT:running 6.00-16 tires, which I believe is the stock size.

Not sure. Is removal needed to replace the seal? Let me know where you find one that fits. I ordered one from Steele & it was wrong, even though it was listed for a '38 Plymouth. I called them to let them know, they took it back & refunded my money (and STILL haven't changed it in their ebay store/listing). Sorry to get OT Seaside Pete.

I had 3" blocks with the stock 75+ year old sagging springs with 6.50/16 bias ply tires & liked how low it was, but didn't like the scrub line issue. Currently have Posies (read not cheap) Super Slider 3" lowered springs with 2 leafs removed, 1" blocks, & now running 6.00/16 bias ply tires.....no scrub line issues (using stock U-bolts). Going with 15" wheels, you will gain 1/2" & with 16" wheels, you will gain 1" in height. Depending what sidewall height you have with your current 14" tires & what tire you decide to go with will either add or subtract in height. I think I referenced this thread in your lowering thread: http://p15-d24.com/topic/33585-new-ways-to-lower-the-rear-end/?hl=%2Bnew+%2Bways+%2Blower

Sorry, but I have NO experience with the Fluid Drive.

For the steering box, use API/GL-4 SAE 85W90 gear oil.

My '38 is two-tone....not by choice, the way I got it. Being a P6 Deluxe, stock would've been 1 color. Also, it is the opposite of a two-tone car, as mine is a black body with maroon fenders. Looks like the original color was a light to medium green (Garfield Green or Avon Green). Found this on paint colors by manufacturer/year (1939 Plymouth for the O.P.....exports may have been different): http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?model=Plymouth&con=o&year=1939&rows=50

I'm envious of his car.

Torque the ones in question to the recommended torque....if they torque up, I would think they are good.

From the Allpar site, 1938 Plymouth: Modern observers may be surprised that the lower-priced Roadking series came standard with two-toning. That is because all Roadking fenders were painted black no matter what body color was chosen. (Of course, if black was chosen as the body color, the whole car was black.) Roadking buyers had to pay an extra five dollars to get the fenders painted to match the body. All Deluxe models were painted with a single color. 1939 Plymouth (year of O.P.'s car): Bodies were available in solid colors only, although the fenders and sheetmetal parts could be ordered in a second color if so desired. Prior to 1939, the Roadking models had all received a two-tone treatment with the fenders being painted black (solid colors were optional), but now the Roadking and Deluxe were painted alike. There may be other years & makes....Dodge, Chrysler, DeSoto, but I only checked the 2 included, since I have a '38 & the O.P.'s car is a '39 Plymouth.

I thought I read somewhere base/lower end models in the 30's had black fenders & color (other than black) body....or maybe it was the opposite????

atlbluz....this is NOT how to remove your cowl vent on your P6. I also have a P6 & the slots/screws are not as shown in the pic.

Use your favorite search engine & search images:"1939 Plymouth Sedan"......lots of paint ideas.

Looks good. More on the scoop.

If you start(ed) a build thread on the HAMB, post the link, I'd like to follow along there also.

Check out this thread:http://p15-d24.com/topic/34976-flathead-powered-t-bucket/

Fred, here's a link to my steering box rebuild: http://p15-d24.com/topic/26625-new-front-disc-brakes-front-end-rebuild-steering-rebuild-for-the-38-plymouth/ (Never mind the front end rebuid-since mine is a tube axle & the front disc brake part-which I know you won't like....not traditional, but it's not an open wheel car & I wanted a little more safety with the kiddos in the car.)

I believe some '39 Plymouth's had floor shift also.

I don't own, nor am I familiar with the Fluid Drive, but why not drain & refill?

My front end rebuild a few years ago also included a steering rebuild. Huge improvement. On a side note, bummer your 230/OD thread got locked.....and your car looks great!

No, but it will fit my '38 Plymouth, so send it to me.....sorry, couldn't resist. If it doesn't fit though........

If you can cut back some of the wire loom to expose clean, non-faded wire, the following link for a wire code chart may be helpful in determining wire gauge. I believe most of the new cloth covered wire is vinyl covered copper with the braided cloth covering. I know it's more expensive, but sure looks nice when it's exposed. Nice looking car......& F-HOA's. http://oldmopar.com/oldmopar/wirecodes.html