deathbound

Welcome to the forum. Pretty sure a build card from Chrysler Historical Society (?) will give you the paint code, among other useful info. Can't say from experience, just what others on here have said. You can check to see if your engine# is original to your car by looking for the same# stamped on the frame.....for '49, I think somewhere on the outside left (drivers) side frame rail near the rear axle kick up.....someone more familiar with a '49 should chime in exactly where (my '38 has it just behind the axle kick up)....and will take some detective work looking for it if the frame hasn't been cleaned up. Also, the search feature is very helpful, just type in "paint code", "build card", or something specific and you should get results. Make sure you are on the main forum page and NOT in a specific thread. Check this out for build card info:http://www.ply33.com/Misc/buildcard

Tops for me, but probably not even if it was free.....not a fan of more doors, so MY opinion is biased. I can understand the sentimental value part, but only if you're going to enjoy it after you get it in running/stopping condition, within your budget. Good luck & welcome to the forum.

Used a brass water distribution tube in mine.....it's a no brainer.

Very nice, especially like the cloth braided wiring. Don't take this the wrong way, but I remove the plastic insulators(?) on the connectors before crimping & use heat shrink.....otherwise, looks beautiful. Your son will be proud to drive a car like this.

Not sure what your budget is, but changing rear ends will get you modern brakes, better ratio (possibly), & no more tapered axle to deal with to remove the rear hubs.....all with minor mods.

Also, a NOTE: "If the lens tends to stick in the body, hold the tool in one hand and give the upper portion of the body a sharp rap with the other hand. this will loosen the lens and permit its removal. replace the bulb, then enter the lens at the bottom, lining up the locator with the locating notch in the body. Slide the lens toward the bottom of the body until the top of the lens clears the body opening. Press inward at the top of the lens, hold the lens in place & tighten the lens retainer screw. Aim the headlight beam." ***EDIT***:Yes, cork gasket required. Not sure who might stock it....may have to make new ones out of cork?

Per page 153 in my 1936-1942 Plymouth Service Manual...."Loosen the screw at the bottom of the headlight body (which you have done). Using the lens removal tool C-439, press inward at the bottom of the lens, causing it to come out at the top of the body & withdraw it upward & out of the body." I have done this without the lens removal tool.....carefully.

That's good it's running again, there's always another day.......besides, your car is too good looking to not be out and about.

Uhhhh, YEAH!

He is the middle man/seller/point of sale contact & customer service falls on him 100%. Please report any updates.

I was lucky, a couple years back when I had my water pump rebuilt, I was going to "try" to remove the WDT. Fortunately, a previous owner had (poorly) fabricated one out of copper pipe. It came out without any issues. One thing I did, was spend the extra money & bought/installed a brass WDT. Good luck & pics of "the remains", once they're out.

If the Plymouth Doctor was only the middleman, maybe the problem lies with his supplier/fabricator.....Kemp's Rod & Restoration. Anyone can be a middleman......you're only as reliable as your supplier (generally speaking). I don't know for a fact Kemp's is the supplier, just going from the above post. Here's their website:http://www.exploringthenorth.com/kemp/rods.html

Luck & more cuss words......usually a bunch in a row.

This was from post #1: What I have done so far: Bled the brakes. No air bubbles in there, just the nasty old fluid. Got the fluid nice and clean and clear. No air. Bled the passenger rear then drivers rear, then the front bottom passenger, then top, then the drivers bottom and top.

I think the Astros or Supremes look good on 50's/early 60's cars. Artillery wheels, better on 30's/early 40's cars/trucks....painted same color as the vehicle. Chrome artillery wheels......no. Just my opinion & in the end, it's your car. Good luck....wheels can make or break the look. **EDIT** (spelling)

Sounds as good as it looks!!!!!

L.A. Roadster Show?????

Curious, if you re-torque while the aluminum head is still warm & the head contracts slightly as it cools, is the torque not accurate anymore? I was under the impression to re-torque the aluminum head after it has cooled (and contracted), so the torque is more accurate.

In my '36-'42 Plymouth service manual...."A final tightening should be made on engines with cast iron heads when the engine has been run sufficiently long to bring all parts to operating temperature. For engines with aluminum heads, check tension after the engine has been run and cooled and while it is still cool. Using a torque wrench, tighten cap screws to 65-70 foot pounds; nuts to 55-60 foot pounds." I know the OP has a '47 230 ci engine, for which the above info may be different, due to different compression ratios (*****EDIT:torque specs vary by fastener size, so maybe the above specs are good????*****). There was no mention about different torque specs for cast iron heads vs aluminum heads....only cap screws (bolts) vs nuts (studs). I have an Edgy aluminum head with ARP studs, & yes, they have hardened washers.

Preferably NOS/NORS Made in USA parts....usually on ebay and a few other vendors. Confirm either, but, in my opinion, AVOID the overseas made parts. I personally would rather pay more up front for known NOS/NORS (or rebuilt original parts) and be done with it. Good luck.

Any pics? I have the same car and mine is either deteriorated or non-existant. One more thing on the to-do list.

Have you checked here:http://www.aajbrakes.com/rproductinfo.html I think some members on here have used their conversion kits, not sure about just the master.

Check out this recent thread:http://p15-d24.com/topic/38392-ugh-insurance-companies-which-one/?hl=insurance *EDIT:oh yeah, how about a pic or 2 of the Coupe.....love the '41's.

Looking good.....hope you checked the torque on those hose clamps!

I've read on here quite a few times NOT to hit the center of the puller, as it can do damage to the axle/bearings.