deathbound

This is Don's thread:http://p15-d24.com/topic/20422-krap/?hl=krap

Work smarter, not harder.

Super Sliders.

Any pics of what it looks like with them mounted?

Nice Outriders plaque.....been to a few of the picnics.....good times. Good to see it closer to being roadworthy.

Stock master re-sleeved in s.s., 1" bore, check valve removed with common over the counter insides, 2# residual valve up front, 10# for the back drums, Rusty Hope disc kit, works fine.

What are you doing for a parking brake, since removing the stock trans/parking brake set-up?

MY comment was sarcasm.....nevermind.

That was good, never heard that one before. *EDIT*SARCASM!

Ditto....I've had my '62 Pan for 20 years and if it doesn't leak, I worry. As far as the OP's problem, there are only a few places a diff can leak, eliminate them 1 at a time.

The following link explains in detail, the "tracers", solid, & "snakeskin" pattern for Mopar wire code identification. http://oldmopar.com/oldmopar/wirecodes.html

It does sound external...any loose fan blades, nuts, bolts, brackets.

George Asche, nicest guy you'll ever talk to.....(814)354-2621

I think Don is still looking for it, should be up by tomorrow morning.

If you posted the photo, check your computer picture files around that date. I bet Don has it somewhere.

This thread may help: http://p15-d24.com/topic/38967-posting-pics-of-my-car/?hl=%2Bpost+%2Bpicture#entry410114 **EDIT**link is for posting pics only.

Can't help with your questions, but that is a very nice car. Welcome to the forum.

I had a similar issue with Steele. Ordered 1 from their ebay store, came with the correct part# for my car on the bag (same as their on-line store for my specific year), completely wrong profile-more like the 1 Bob posted in the original post. I contacted them & they refunded the purchase price....maybe because I went through ebay??? Anyway, I explained the issue & they said they would have their research dept look into it. The part they continue to advertise (2-3 years later) for '36-'38 Chrysler/Plymouth/Dodge /DeSoto is for the later years with a "V" profile along the windshield edge. For my '38 Plymouth, it has a straight profile along the windshield edge. Here's a link to the part I purchased: http://www.ebay.com/itm/390487293339?item=390487293339&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr

Is this for '47 only? Just have to ask, didn't want this thread to go in the same direction as your non-pressurized radiator cap thread. All kidding aside, I'm guessing it's probably universal across MOST, if not all the Mopar flathead 6 line.

A quick Google search turned up these guys in O.C.....not an endorsement, just a link: http://www.drivelinesinc.com/ Another helpful link: http://www.iedls.com/Driveshafts/Measuring-Driveshafts.asp

I've read some also drill out the rivets for the lower spring pocket and relocate to the underside of the A-arm with grade 8 bolts.....but forgot how much drop you get. Maybe someone who's done this will chime in with their experience.

The original post says the linings are 5/32". If your brake catalog says they should be 3/16", then the thickness shouldn't be a problem, since his are 1/32" thinner.

Try George Asche also.

Check out the following thread, which is unrelated to the dual exhaust question, but has 2 posts with pics of dual exhaust with an "X" member. Post #55 of the original posters car of that thread & post #102 of my '38. Hope these help. http://p15-d24.com/topic/33585-new-ways-to-lower-the-rear-end/

Here are a couple links that may be helpful: http://www.desoto.org/ http://www.oldride.com/clubs/346868644.html