DJ194950

Have you cleaned the points-very critical. Leave the tightening nut as tight as possible and still able to move the screw slightly. Tighten adjusting nut, try operation. If it works before tightening but not after, loosen nut back screw op as little as possible,tighten nut and try again. It can really test your patience! With dual trumpet horns I got one to work and then the other working and the first quit! Finally ran larger dia. wires and on a very patient day worked 1 then the other and back and forth and finally both worked! Not everyone has has this much trouble but I changed to 12v. on the 6 v. horns and I believe that made it harder, Good luck, DJ

Last I have read (many) times is the are no new cam blanks available for these old mopar flatties, but the cam companies can use your old cam and regrind the lift, duration of the valves with the old if they are in reasonable condition. Some regrind specs for these have been posted in the past and should be able to be found with a search on the forums. Possibly add some newer coating(s) to the cams lifters to make the new grind last longer? Anyone know different on both things mentioned?? New lifters Should be required as they seem to be still available. Thanks, DJ

12 volt pos. or neg. ground? Either way I would hook up to the Hot side ( non grounded bat. connection) with a jumper wire and quickly touch the wires 2or 3? . Any movement? Need to first find out if the motor is already grounded though the mount or which is the grounding wire to the motor. A volt meter in line is a better choice if available. . 2 wires = one speed wiper, 3 wires= 2 speed wipers. Just the basic starting points will help decide the correct wiring, Best of luck, DJ

Do you have a good ground from the motor to the frame? and then to the radiator support from the frame? These old cars suffer from corrosion at contact points that Used to make these connection. Have you checked power to the headlight switch After the switch is on? Bad connections sometimes show up when there is a amp draw on them but not before. Just some thoughts/questions, Sure answer will show up soon! DJ

Sounded like you never went to 5th. gear? With 3.08 and a t-5 do not think you would ever be able to use 5th. gear. Lower rear gears to get some quicker pick-up? Good video, DJ

Concerning the ignition break accomplished with the factory set up. What does it do? Drops rpm to relieve pressure in the trans allowing the OD solenoid to kick in or out of OD. A quick blip off the throttle does the same thing. With my OD wiring setup the ignition break is left out and I just give my Shift-Rite button a push just before I want the OD to shift in or out and a blip off the throttle allows the shift change. Has worked very fine for several years now. DJ

Both pics show to my eye the valve in the middle of pics is not closing(not coming down in contact with the lifter) My reading glasses may be at fault also.? DJ

No cats in the garage!! You go!! Best to ya! DJ

I like the roof height as is! Lower that the others manufacturers at the time. Still enough room for a hat being worn inside- Per Walter C. DJ

Paul, which way does the exhaust flapper valve and weight go as it heats up. Something there just does not look right to me but the whole thing still confuses me somewhat. Mainly the position of parts, spring/start position of the counterweight etc. Have seen a few variations of parts as my car had no motor when purchased and bought several parts? motors to build mine. DJ

I used some Hi-temp paint I found at a Napa store labeled Mopar RED! Years used ?, really do not know but said Mopar on it! DJ

My first question was that all the keel it had?? But for a permanent cabin on the water who cares same with the engine condition. Cheap cabin ON the water. DJ

Bought a Champion Rad. for my 50 4 dr. several years back and had to re drill the mounting holes as they were off about 3/4" in the height location. Other that that it fit very well, so look at their website for measurements. Outlet/inlet locations/type/shape/size- to see what will work for your application.. DJ

Have your machine shop after complete tear down sonic test it to see if re-sleeving your block is a good idea?? DJ

Not to much of a farm boy but do roosters lay eggs? Special breed?

You are right about the suburban not being interchangeable! DUH- I own a 50 suburban and a 50 4 dr.! Book does show that though for the 50 sub. Shows a different # in this book for 51 and 52 suburbans guess that they miss typed for the 50 and I was going along with it. Try measuring from the frame to the outer edge of the rear fenders from side to side? DJ

Belvedere, First thing after a close up of your car is that you do have the wrong trim piece on your fender. Maybe because they somehow seem to be very rare in good enough condition for even for old EBAY. Last pair on the E went for over $300++ for NOS with scratches, I know because I guess I helped the seller get good bucks! Back to the interchange question- My Hollander interchange for these year says- a 50Ply. 4 dr. rear fender interchanges with a 50 ply. suburban,3 pass. cpe., club cpe. & and convertible. 1951 Ply. 3 pass.cpe., 4 dr., club cpe., conv., bevedere?? number may be a 591 vs. a 501 per the book a slight miss print? Most likely because the numbers to the above models are the same 51 & 52. The hole location for the trim may move up or down. They may fit the models listed but exactly the same? Wider? The fender trim piece location between 49 and 50 Ply were changed. The 50's were lower at least the fronts were, too many possibility's for the rear fenders, anyone know about the rear trim locations versus the 51 &52? The Ebay trim pieces were for rears ONLY! EDITED DJ

Checked it out online sounds good but expensive not sure. Cheapest price after a little time spent was $ 80 shipped for a 11lb. spool of .023 wire. Have not bought any mig wire for several years so I'm not up with current prices but that does seem about 3 times what I spent locally for .023 11lb. spool then. Maybe it is worth more if it does save enough grinding time and grinding wheels, but how much more. Supposedly as strong as normal mig wire-general use type. es70 I think?. Also interested if anyone has tried it. DJ

How did you two meet and hook up? Great story and tell him to join the forum with pics of course.

Put on some goggles and go for it! Edit to add: Light those rear skins up and post a video! DJ

A thought Why not post a Craigslist ad (free) near where the parts are for the leftover parts(all) FREE in the auto parts listings. I strongly suspect that a locally located seller of old car parts will be be thrilled to get the leftovers and maybe put to use, especially if he will take the time to advertise and ship- Greyhound anyone? No money for the parts but no regrets as to just scrapping. Best of luck with getting her up and running. \DJ

I'm using one from HF like #66871. 6.75 oz. suction type touch up gun. $13.99. Following your HF link I when to air tools/paint Page #2 near the bottom or just search HF site for the stock #. Your choice I have used this one for small jobs. Primer -sometimes-thinned as needed- Finish paints can spray a nice finish also. Clean up is easy just because of its small size and I have never taken all apart to clean, never appeared to need it. Just get some paint gun lube( avail. at automotive paint stores) to put on the packing seals after use. Your choice of gun type is up to you. Best DJ

Did a Craigslist search for all of Ca. last night for a Mopar 833a trans and only three came up. 1 was in parts for a rebuild for $500 and two in socal for $7-800+. IE not cheap?! Pick and pull is very unlikely in No.ca. for these. DJ

You using one of the HF touch up spray guns? Found they work good and save a lot of time on clean up. Work well for smaller pieces up to dash boards/ etc. DJ

I bought some 49-50 Ply. suburban rockers from him about 6-7 years ago and they fit better than what I had attempted to do on my own after I had bought some from another ebay seller -( ????? for you) - they where just sheet metal straight without the curvature front to back needed. I would give them a go again! Recommend. DJ