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DJ194950

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Everything posted by DJ194950

  1. Try speedwaymotors.com-shock mounts, new are avail two sizes as I remember DJ
  2. Cooler here in No cal. central valley only 105f. with expected high 104! At least we do have a 5 mph wind called the delta breeze. Cooler?? Only 95 expected tomorrow. No rain in sight. DJ
  3. Nicely completed! Congrats on your very nice work. DJ
  4. Jeff if you have an smog test from another car that includes Ca. allowable limits to compare to your truck would also be very interesting. Hope that there are no EPA officials looking at this site if you do post one! Just threw my last test paper with my cars smog output and state std.s away about 2 weeks ago. DJ
  5. If I had a new project I'd go to the pick&pull again and again and also to the other one 30 miles away (twice as big), no older junk yards left here (ca.) unless private and that's DAMN near impossible also, city, county, state all hate old cars! Just looking for one part at a yard is enough excuse to spend a couple of hours looking for ideas. Back to the original poster, you need to get your height desired set and then to your homework as to shocks/lenghts etc. monroe shocks have an online catalog of shocks with everything they make and it's about 40-50 pages long with all measurements, mount styles, application and on and on. Best to luck with your project. DJ
  6. Tim could you even see the ebay link? I can"t. My own post! Old is what i am. F-1 ford parts are My age! New old parts are avail. Some have also used even older Mopar simalar type mounts that can be hard to find. Years-unknown to me, but i'm old and thats the story I'm sticking to! DJ
  7. Many have used and old ford truck front shock mount like these to Bolt on. 1948 1949 1950 1951 1952 Ford F1 Front Shock Mount Hot Rat Rod _ eBay.htm DJ
  8. Looking again I was wrong I believe. Don and 50 desoto I now believe are right. Steel line with a newer insulation cover. See no hose clamps now for a rubber hose. Don't think the headlight rings are correct either per YukonJack. I do like the look of them however! DJ
  9. Still on my wish list! DJ
  10. The rubber fuel line to the carb that appears too close to the exhaust manifold, ready to get fire good and hot?? DJ
  11. DRAIN the gas and get that stuff out your gas tank pronto before you foul all the plugs and need to change them to. Oil change maybe if still smoking after some miles. DJ
  12. Still have the built in factory MC residual valve? Remove it. It will hold 10 lb. to front and back I believe, causing the front to hold too much residual pressure. No effect to rears as both hold 10 lb. to rears. Probably need to remove and clean up the front calipers as Tim said also. Just one more thought! DJ
  13. These forum members have way more experience on rear spring so defer to them, but on my 50 Suburban it had at least 9 springs and also an overload spring that only worked after the rear was heavy? loaded. Took overloads off removed rear springs and removed at least 3 leaves after cleaning and a high pressure grease applied. Old springs are almost already sagged as compared to new stock. How much lower in the rear is totally personal choice. Do and internet search for pics of your year Suburban. Hours worth to look at. Mustang II early springs are readily avail. at most parts stores in a 4 cyl., 6cyl., and 8 cyl. versions! All will depend on your engine and trans. weights. But my experience was I tried all three and ended up with 4 cyl. springs w/1coil cut even with a off brand v-8 an 700 r-4. Will dig around this mess of a computer to see if I can find some side pics. Car is unfinished and in storage. DJ
  14. Easy to check, but under car. Disconnect wire on the governor and check contact for ground. Should Not be grounded. Usually gets stuck where weights will not move out and give a ground to the relay to engage OD solenoid. But in normal operation after achieving a ground at set speed, the governor wire goes to the reverse lockout switch. OD should Never be able to engage when in reverse because the reverse rod in the trans is supposed to push rearward on the OD engagement rod and open the reverse switch ground from the governor then to the OD relay. Some ideas to check? Good luck, glad the OD works, I love mine! DJ
  15. Totally understand that! DJ
  16. 1 question, what about the grindings and the lifter area? Sure you have a plan, just curious. Thanks,DJ
  17. Looks wise: appears front wheels not centered in fender wheel wells? Or just the photo angle? Safety wise: Those body mounts would scare anybody except Maybe Evil Kneilval. Spelled wrong I know! Is that a rag joint in the steer shaft above the front shock mount in your pic? If so, another place just waiting to Fail! SMALL?? details to some can Kill others! Will be a nice project with a Correct build. Best, DJ
  18. One of the problem areas with putting a coating in these cars fuel tanks can be the hidden floating pick up with a screen can get blocked by the coating. Leave it upright to dry and it will stuck in the coating and maybe plug the pickup screen. Leave it upside down and fill the tube of the pickup with coating?. Rotating the tank regularly as it drys seem to help or put a low pressure flow of compressed air thru the tube as it drys. The sealer I've used twice drys too slow and it seems to make it difficult to do either. Seems that you have good luck with however your tank repair guys have done in the past but no one is perfect. Both on my reseal tank jobs had problem with fuel flow because of partial fuel tube or pickup problems and required a good amount of air pressure applied to the output fuel fitting (gas tank cap off!) to not pressurize the tank just the pickup part! It did at POP (which it believe was the blocked screen being blow loose) and after that had a good free flow of air into the tank and upon retest of fuel flow was good. If you have good airflow at low air pressure then that,s not your problem area, but if not: Not too hard to check this at the tank. Will most likely need to test by putting a section of hose onto the tank fitting and put hose lower than fuel level and siphon the fuel to get flow started and measure, it should have a good free flow. Stuff happens. Best, DJ
  19. Just try? saying to your wife, I got a 1 track mind about this car. Most women tend to believe the 1 track part! DJ
  20. Never pass smog in CA.! :( DJ
  21. http://hollythehomemaker.blogspot.com/2013/05/how-to-make-washing-soda-redux.html How to make soda wash from baking soda. If as some have said can be hard to find. Pretty easy to do and Cheap!! DJ
  22. I agree if your motor is in good condition-unless you live in a Very hilly area-Big hills! Finding a 3.54 rear ratio rear of stock type can be hard. If you have one go for it! Best, DJ
  23. Looking forward to that video! DJ
  24. Suggest, Look inside and out at the gasket between intake-exhaust. Holes? Maybe time to take a chance break bolts and replace as needed. Repair if needed or not. All looking good and Maybe last a while? Put a straight edge across the mounting flanges- first across straight and x'ed the faces of the mounting surfaces of the block side. If the are very level, great!. If not, replacing the intake to exhaust manifold bolts loose (replaced if needed) Allow them to settle in with the new gaskets when tightened and Then the intake to exhaust bolts get tightened., ( per repair manuel.) DJ
  25. Tim I was giving you a "poke" ! Bu interesting post on the mfgers. DJ
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