DJ194950

Original seal was a Very thin rubber gasket that over the years just melded into a black mess that creaped out onto the glass to look terrible! I did the same as kented a scraped the goo off with a razor blade, cleaned the lens and put a very small bead of silicone sealer to replace the rubber seal. Works out great. Years ago say one seller on ebay with nos gauge rubber sealers at $15 each! Not for me, thanks. Doug

Where did you get the replacement panels as they appear to be better than any I have seen on this forum and my own remade panels or did you do them?? NICE! Doug

Only rod with elongated hole is on overcenter setup. Other rods show normal wear that needs repair to be correct,should be round holes, see attached pic from 50 mopar parts book. On the spring question I forgot about, if it's like 49-50 ply's. then a spring about 3/4" round at the coil and 6-8" long overall it hooks on the clutch pedal lower tab/w/hole then to a approx.8-10" long wire with 2 hooks formed on the ends that go to a notch on a floor? support. I had to use a ratchet strap hooked to the wire hook and the other end of the strap wrapped arround the rear end and crank the strap down to stretch the spring enough. I have a bad back so you may just get by with a visegrip clamped to the wire and a good pull! Doug plymouth clutch parts-linkages.bmp

You learned well it that welding class-Grasshopper! Looks good to me! Doug

You can use the thread file ONLY with the left hand threads-Unless the set is for left hand threads totally, I doubt it as left hand threads are rare these days on most cars. If I understand Don's link, over $100 could be spent fot the Set (drill, oversize tap for new helicoil, and heli coil.), seems if so, time to find another hub or hub with drum. Maybe check with a local machine shop to do the job for less-they may own the tools. Doug

I agree with Tod, original are fine if in good shape. Noi need for regular grease jobs. BUT- If you want to undate the driveline style , a forum member Pete, rebuild his 50 ply. with all new updated and posted on his site- 50plymouth.com under the frame section a parts list used. This type of part to build a new style drive shaft should be able to be built by your local driveline specialist, they are avail. also everywhere because so many things use drivelines including ag machinery and the type of flat flange to u-joint- slip connect is Very commonly used! Try to post Petes parts list that may apply to your changeover, but otherwise see the web site he made, good reading anyway and concise! Doug

JIM, if you can install a "t" type of fitting and attach a pressure gauge that will show well in the 500-2000 lb. range, I think I would start there before changing MC's, brake pedal leverage ratios, rear ends etc. Like the previous post shows that arround 1000 lb. pressure is required with disc brakes-slightly less will work for drums. Best Doug

Assuming your talking about for home/farm use.? Made offshore most likely and do they really test anything they make? I doubt it ! , therefore 0 ratings! Lawsuits everywhere- too many lawyers! Doug

With motor cold!, try setting the choke arm to achieve about 75% of choke closure. It should go to 100% when starting, then will drop back to the 75% closure and open slowly, but only with the throttle opened slightly because the steps on the throttle stop are rotated with the choke closure to hold the throttle open more until throttle is open more. Full open with a fully warm manifold And choke. Best, Doug

Ya, fuel may cost more but the state also gives you a check for your share of the crude oil pumped in the state to help pay the higher prices! Doug

I like that observation! Then if possible find a short enough stainless steel stud and use a brass nut. I guess a grade 5 stud will work. Mine never had the electic-Sisson chokes installed -factory/dealer. Just did my best guess at home with what I had. Doug

For a first or second try, sounds good to me! Congrats! Doug

I drilled out two differant manifolds for Sisson type chokes. The first I tried 1/4+ and tapped them. With the choke and gasket I only had a couple of threads actually holding the choke on. Not enough threads. Redrilled enough and tapped again to use a 5/8" long bolts. Fine. On the second one tried to do the same and ended up drilling one all the way through, but did Not cause and problems at all. Do not use grade 8 bolts! Too hard to drill if needed in the future. Grade 5 max. Also a little antisieze will increase your chances if removal needed. Just drill straight as possible and maybe have a helper with a good eye check on you. Do not hurry! Best of luck, Doug

Check in the Classifed cloum at top of this site. Under parts for sale I have two rear hubs w/ drums for sale that should fit your car. I can remove the rivits and the drum to cut weight down a lot if not needed. Doug (dj194950)

Try searching on the net- empi 86-1073 d Ebay had them for $10-12 free shipping Lots of other also sites also come up. Shipping from Napa is slow also, many parts come from down south or east coast. If your not in a big hurry- - - Doug

There is also a spray on splatter shield avail. at any welding supply store the keeps the "dingle berryers" from sticking to surrounding steel. Cheap. Can be wiped off and painted over. Best, Doug

50 bus. cpes.should have had a 3.73 as stock unless it was changed. Time to go under and clean the 3rd. member and see! They all sound like the overreving compared to any newer car. Best Doug

Jeff, sorry I ever opened this can of worms! If your current ign. If you never had a drpping resistor there should be NO reason to even consider adding one with the Pertronix changeover. I just suggested from the start for ask them if you were using one on how to wire the new coil up. It just gets mentioned on how to wire their coils with a changeover. I've only done 12 v. and both said that no resistor required with their new coils but some may be needed for other? reasons and could still be used as per stock setups! SORRY AGAIN!! Doug

I often put the timing light pickup on the coil wire on a motor with a miss. Point the light at the block and watch for even light pulses to eliminate a plug or wire problem. It there a missing flash (uneven) them put the pickup on 1 plug wire at a time to isolate which cylinder is the missing cyl. by again just pointing time light at the block. Check the wireing and pull plug to check the cyl. that's missing. If the flash is even (no missing flashes) need to look at carb., timing, vac. leaks and on. Doug

Back in the mid 60's when working in a gas station in central ca. We had one customer who always insisted on using straight weight oils and changed weights with the seasons instead of multi weight. Found out he was a chemical engineer for shell and he felt that all the weight changing additives just reduced the amount on straight oil that was in the qt. of oil for lubrication. So everybody has their opinions! Doug

Dang missed the BBQ this year after going to the last 3. Slipping and fell in the garage and hit my head on a can friday afternoon, OUCH!. Lots of blood and ended up with 10 stitches and 2 black eyes After 4 hr. in the ER made it home at 10:30pm. So I thought it best for me and a friend to not go. Sounds like I missed the biggest yet! And Best! Next year. Ya I'm doing fine now. Doug

Thks for info James. Will PM you you my email so that you couldpls. sen me a copy. Thanks agin Doug

I agree with Tim, Make the phone call to thier tech line. Some times it can envolve weather you need or want to run a voltage drop resistor, but again, ask. I found them nice and also helpfull. Doug

Some the truck/industrial uses ran the bigger clutch with a bigger ID on the throwout bearing colar to match a larger imput shaft OD and a larger OD on the bearing itself . That change made the the ID circumference of the clutch fingers needed to be enlarged ( shorter fingers) on the clutch. to accomadate the larger imput shaft. Easy to check this with your stock type-size colar and bearing held against the 10" pressure plate fingers. Bearing surface should fully cover the fingers. Just 1 more thing to check before sending out for a rebuild. Agree if that if that checks OK, to tell Tenn. clutch with your problem/concerns on the spline roughness before they rebuild your parts. Doug

Tks. for the reply Tod. Been watching the built your own pressure brake bleader forum members have posted for a while and it seems like a cheap and easy thing to do! Doug