DJ194950

Sorry Joe to mention the rears again. I DO remember earlier post and checks, but just in case of something floating in the system causing a problem, I brought it up again, Always re-confirm-even if it seems at pain- I know. I do know that you are a very,very detailed person after all these posts and I only try to make thoughts that may make sense for you to look at. Q.? You took apart the calipers and cleaned per an earlier post, but did you replace all the seals/boots etc.?. The pistons should have micro-polished finish, unlike a brake cyl. or MC. Fit is of major importance. Again, just thoughts. Have a good weekend, goodnight! Doug

Sorry not the clearest post! Front brakes are the issue I assume, not 100% sure, but you are doing the checking. With a single MC if could be front or back if lines/hoses/brake cyls. the problem area or still the MC. Just 1 check. Hope to help get your project to a full time driver! Doug

Crack the fittings from the MC to the residual valve slightly and check if the piston in the MC moves reward with a release of any pressure. Tighten fitting to prevent air re-entering. A change?= MC Problem. No change = front brake issue. Ideas, Doug

Jeff where's the fire bug in ya ? The neighbors can share the fun with you! The fire dept. will love ya with the drought conditions and extreme fire conditions! DJ

I guess that if you like them, strongly suggest they wear life vests and both have locators beacons in them! Not for me and I love boat trips on open water. Do you like wiring jobs? Would love a safe trip to Catalina Island in a Safe small boat! DJ

Joe- is it one of the nuts in the trunk area or in the area of the front several rear fender bolts only accessible from behind the rear seat/and or the panel covering the side rear panel? If you can get access to either, can you get a vice grip to clamp the nut tight and run a tap through the threads? Chase the bolt if original or replace. I've had some place ons my 4 dr. that needed a new but taped thread to get started even after the tap was used to clean up the threads. I just look it to a grinder and make the first threads with a taper and power wire brushed them or ran a small v-shaped file in the area of the ground thread area, worked for me. Best of luck DJ

Suppose that wolf/coyote if marinated and BBQ will taste like dog? Way too many societies end them! I love dogs. Just not enough yard space for the German Sheppard dogs I've loved for years. Have had 3. Not a lover of the predator species though as they eat dogs! Armadillos are Paul's specialty, need to consult him. DJ

Were they a flat type of gasket that the base has a slightly raised center high ridge or a round groove type narrow slot. Not familiarly with the 49 type seal as mine is a 50. Very different. If just a groove I'd suggest a hydraulic place where you should find something to fit or cut one the fit a a 45 degree angle each end made long enough and apply super glue. They used to sell kits with different sizes of o-ring rubber to make your own in the field for repairs. Held 2500 lbs. pressure at least for a while! Should hold taillight gasket together forever! DJ

No, sorry! Time for new sprockets and chain. Not hard to find and somewhat not too expensive. At least here in the states. Understand shipping and taxes make it way worse for you. Check the resources-links on this forum for sellers friendly to the forum! DJ

47 heaven. Take a look at the resources section of this forum- manuals- r-10 maintenance - Page 10-11 Details about a OD unit that stays Locked in (which prevents getting reverse) and how to fix it, fairly easy with only removal of OD solenoid and a screwdriver. Hope its that easy. Forgot to say make sure the OD solenoid does not have power to it, keeping it engaged same idea as above. (bad relay)? DJ

Tightening the starter bolt close to the block? DJ

Where to you get cold air these days in this climate? Low pressure avail. everywhere but not cold. I need some! DJ

And plug in the diagnostics on the computer?? DJ

Manufacturers designed the shocks so that a compression bump stop would hit before shock was in full compressed position, allowing for age on the stop. For rebound the shock was shorter than full travel to limit it to prevent the spring from falling down far enough to allow spring to move out of the pockets formed in the a-arms to hold in proper position and misaligning the spring. On leaf sprung rear ends the same applies as the rear spring shackle could flip in the forward position in a full dropped position as as opposed to to the rearward making for No spring travel . The shock will limit the amount of drop allowed to prevent this from happening. The load on the shock is actually low as the weight load under this condition is only the suspension parts weights, not the whole cars weight as would be encountered if the shock bottomed out on compression. This extension limit of the shock prevents either problem when jacking up a car to get wheel(s) off the ground. Have fun double checking. DJ

One trick I read on several posts that came up with an r-10 trans pages on a web search suggested to also wrap a rubber band (thin) on the freewheeling roller bearings to help hold the in place while installing the tailshaft section.. It really helped me after several attempts with two different greases without the rubber band and some bearings kept falling out. The rubber band will get slide forward with install and cause No problems. Probably get chewed up into pieces in the gears. too thin and small to do anything. Worked great for me twice. DJ

Ok the Ign. coil. I think Tim answered that issue in post #2. Best, DJ

Guess I should add that I've never added soluble oil and Bars Leak to anything that was working OK. Even then-No soluble oil! DJ

Ign. coil? DJ

Way out there thought. Has anyone ever added a soluble oil to the radiator? Many years ago when working on bigger used, just bought, Rough terrain forklifts my rental co. always flushed the radiator and then added antifreeze, some water. 1 cup of soluble oil and a can of bars leak to every motor just before topping off rad. while running- Most of which where Chrysler flat heads Per the older owner instructions! Open the rad. cap and always had an oil slick look on top. Oil in water of the engine oil type will congeal into a gooey mess and Not mix when heated just make a mess. I know a very, very long shot! DJ

From a 50 mopar parts book. Only has a pic of rear fender of a Chrysler, but when only one pic it usually means all brands were the same ideas, parts wise. Hope it's of some help? DJ

Mark, I said that because the main box dis-assembly instruction are Not included in the OD disassemble instructions. Therfore look at main box repair procedures for 49 and up to work on the later boxes may be needed. They may be the same as P-15 boxes. That I have not ever done or looked at that. There is also a change in the type of synchro style used in the OD transmissions which would make some minor change of disassemble/ assemble instructions. Brass (early) type v.s. some type of "pin type" ?. I have only worked with the early style synchros. Later Parts for the main box my work with the earlier boxes, not sure, A phone call to suggested trans parts supplier would be my next step. I do know that the gasket between the back end of the main box to the tailshaft on a std. 3 spd. is different for the overdrive section to main box gasket. DJ

One should be labeled taillight or license plate light which is what you want to hook to the license led bolts. Did not understand the 3 wire? question as your pic shows six. The brake output labeled wire might be intended for your 3rd. brake light if ordered with that. Kind of doubt the the wires have a grounding wire included as most grounds use body the body as grounding source. The ones labeled as left/right turn signal are the taillight stop light and turn signal bulb- dual filament and the brighter of the two. Cannot read all the label in the pic, so went as far as I could ascertain. Get er done! DJ

Overwhelming, yessir I did 2 Mopar OD at the same time-my first manual trans repair! I've been a mechanic for many years mostly electrical gremlins or major mechanical replacement, so all new to me. I read every Mopar OD book I could find. Some are now on this forum and some on the internet. Search borg-marner r-10 transmission. There are several Service and others posted in the resources section for download. However you also need a 49 and up main trans box for std. trans to know how to take them apart as it's required to do as a part of working on the OD section to totally separate the main box and the OD parts. The can of worms you have opened is a Large one, BUT It does not need the skills of a brain surgeon to be checked/repaired if need be. Just the repair and parts pages of the main box and the OD repair/inspection parts will do! The can opened when you started removing the Od section from the main box. There is a gasket between the two main parts that cannot be replaced with pulling the two section apart. But nothing says that you need to continue to take apart the OD section further! There is many OD experienced forum members. So lots of help avail. here! Time to start downloading and enjoy the education! You can do it. Best, DJ

Primer color has a lot of coverage effect on a base color coverage. Always try to use a primer color close to the finish color= less paint to achieve the final color without streaking etc. Since you chose a specialty primer for old paint, discuss coverage with your paint supplier. No time to skimp just for lowest price point of brands and local supplier with knowledge of paints they sell. Remember most of the paint they sell for local refinishers locally better work well. They do listen to their feedback. My local stores can explain the in and outs of various top coats. Get the product application-spec sheet. Tells how to apply their products. coverage, which undercoats(primer) work best with the paint. Best of luck, more info = most likely a great finished product! DJ

Man if your 12 volt on this car I'd definitely look at a harness with fuses for whatever your may add to your car. Rebel looked reasonably priced. Even if staying 6 volt and not worried about the wire not being cloth coated I'd definitely look at the Rebel 6 volt kit. Why- way easier in the long run, more fuses to protect devices as stock only has 1 or 2. + big + they use different colors for each wire and they are labeled for Future repairs if needed! It's very hard to buy many different colors of wire where I live ( No. CA.) plus connectors that usually are in the kits (check). Lastly the wires are pretty straight v.s. rolled wire bought at the parts store. The only possible area of concern is if you keep 6 volt horns and run them on 12v. you will probably need a relay added with heavy wire from the relay to the horns. Your choice, DJ