DJ194950

Joe I can try-but 1 thing I found out about 49 Ply. bumpers and mounting brackets after I bought 3 years ago to possibly use on my suburban. There were at least 4 diff. bumpers used, if I remember right, only one front and three diff. rears. All used diff. mount brackets and none of the brackets where the same for 50, front included. What I bought was a grab bag as the seller did not know anything about app. etc. And no mount bracket at all. Never used them at all, pretty rough shape chrome wise. Will see if my front has some spacers between bracket/bumper and get a pic. if possible for you. Believe the rears may have had something as spacers as I did replace it. DJ

Man Plymouthy, your going to make me crawl under my 50 tomorrow when it's a bit cooler on the outside cement drive and see whats on it!! Now I want to see what a 50 has. Never looked at this. DJ

Good idea on the back-up manual cable-never know- if the kids get locked in playing hid & seek! Surprised no one asked about the use of door poppers to push it out somewhat open when activated. Question- how or where does the water seal fit for the lid? Like your inventiveness! DJ

Plymouthy- What the OD of the spacers? Length? Could be made from a piece of sold stock steel, center hole drilled to clear bolt, then ground at proper angle? DJ

Burntina- Very-very expensive- few have same because of this. DJ

Sorry, some one else's post threw me off about the by pass/no by pass head info, did not catch that a different poster was in there! DJ

Perhaps you just got the Head gasket wrong? No water bypass extra material to cover the by pass hole? DJ

Try cracking the fitting where the line comes out of the residual valve.. Let it bleed any pressure out- tighten. Recheck if brakes locked after making them lock as before. If it frees front brakes and- Check to see if the piston/cup in the MC are now clear of port. Change or No? I'm starting to believe you have a return spring problem In the MC. Binding-too short- not enough spring pressure? Doug

Sorry Joe to mention the rears again. I DO remember earlier post and checks, but just in case of something floating in the system causing a problem, I brought it up again, Always re-confirm-even if it seems at pain- I know. I do know that you are a very,very detailed person after all these posts and I only try to make thoughts that may make sense for you to look at. Q.? You took apart the calipers and cleaned per an earlier post, but did you replace all the seals/boots etc.?. The pistons should have micro-polished finish, unlike a brake cyl. or MC. Fit is of major importance. Again, just thoughts. Have a good weekend, goodnight! Doug

Sorry not the clearest post! Front brakes are the issue I assume, not 100% sure, but you are doing the checking. With a single MC if could be front or back if lines/hoses/brake cyls. the problem area or still the MC. Just 1 check. Hope to help get your project to a full time driver! Doug

Crack the fittings from the MC to the residual valve slightly and check if the piston in the MC moves reward with a release of any pressure. Tighten fitting to prevent air re-entering. A change?= MC Problem. No change = front brake issue. Ideas, Doug

Jeff where's the fire bug in ya ? The neighbors can share the fun with you! The fire dept. will love ya with the drought conditions and extreme fire conditions! DJ

I guess that if you like them, strongly suggest they wear life vests and both have locators beacons in them! Not for me and I love boat trips on open water. Do you like wiring jobs? Would love a safe trip to Catalina Island in a Safe small boat! DJ

Joe- is it one of the nuts in the trunk area or in the area of the front several rear fender bolts only accessible from behind the rear seat/and or the panel covering the side rear panel? If you can get access to either, can you get a vice grip to clamp the nut tight and run a tap through the threads? Chase the bolt if original or replace. I've had some place ons my 4 dr. that needed a new but taped thread to get started even after the tap was used to clean up the threads. I just look it to a grinder and make the first threads with a taper and power wire brushed them or ran a small v-shaped file in the area of the ground thread area, worked for me. Best of luck DJ

Suppose that wolf/coyote if marinated and BBQ will taste like dog? Way too many societies end them! I love dogs. Just not enough yard space for the German Sheppard dogs I've loved for years. Have had 3. Not a lover of the predator species though as they eat dogs! Armadillos are Paul's specialty, need to consult him. DJ

Were they a flat type of gasket that the base has a slightly raised center high ridge or a round groove type narrow slot. Not familiarly with the 49 type seal as mine is a 50. Very different. If just a groove I'd suggest a hydraulic place where you should find something to fit or cut one the fit a a 45 degree angle each end made long enough and apply super glue. They used to sell kits with different sizes of o-ring rubber to make your own in the field for repairs. Held 2500 lbs. pressure at least for a while! Should hold taillight gasket together forever! DJ

No, sorry! Time for new sprockets and chain. Not hard to find and somewhat not too expensive. At least here in the states. Understand shipping and taxes make it way worse for you. Check the resources-links on this forum for sellers friendly to the forum! DJ

47 heaven. Take a look at the resources section of this forum- manuals- r-10 maintenance - Page 10-11 Details about a OD unit that stays Locked in (which prevents getting reverse) and how to fix it, fairly easy with only removal of OD solenoid and a screwdriver. Hope its that easy. Forgot to say make sure the OD solenoid does not have power to it, keeping it engaged same idea as above. (bad relay)? DJ

Tightening the starter bolt close to the block? DJ

Where to you get cold air these days in this climate? Low pressure avail. everywhere but not cold. I need some! DJ

And plug in the diagnostics on the computer?? DJ

Manufacturers designed the shocks so that a compression bump stop would hit before shock was in full compressed position, allowing for age on the stop. For rebound the shock was shorter than full travel to limit it to prevent the spring from falling down far enough to allow spring to move out of the pockets formed in the a-arms to hold in proper position and misaligning the spring. On leaf sprung rear ends the same applies as the rear spring shackle could flip in the forward position in a full dropped position as as opposed to to the rearward making for No spring travel . The shock will limit the amount of drop allowed to prevent this from happening. The load on the shock is actually low as the weight load under this condition is only the suspension parts weights, not the whole cars weight as would be encountered if the shock bottomed out on compression. This extension limit of the shock prevents either problem when jacking up a car to get wheel(s) off the ground. Have fun double checking. DJ

One trick I read on several posts that came up with an r-10 trans pages on a web search suggested to also wrap a rubber band (thin) on the freewheeling roller bearings to help hold the in place while installing the tailshaft section.. It really helped me after several attempts with two different greases without the rubber band and some bearings kept falling out. The rubber band will get slide forward with install and cause No problems. Probably get chewed up into pieces in the gears. too thin and small to do anything. Worked great for me twice. DJ

Ok the Ign. coil. I think Tim answered that issue in post #2. Best, DJ

Guess I should add that I've never added soluble oil and Bars Leak to anything that was working OK. Even then-No soluble oil! DJ