DJ194950

Pics of gasket and tool? DJ

Damn, hate when that happens! DJ

Trade it for a Prius? Wait, I believe you already have one. Leave it the garage? NOT! Feel your pain some but I don't have wire wheels either or such a nice car. DJ

Appears your seal is original type. Hope you have was better luck than I did removing it. Repair manuals show a special three fingered tool with and expander to keep it tight to the seal. Mine were red lock tighted in I believe. Almost ready to use more dynamite! Others seems to cruise thru this! While in this far-suggest cleaning the points inside of the OD solenoid. Not to hard. Remove the two screws for electric connections on it and then after a good soak of rust penetrate on the two nuts on the end of the cover and remove cover. points will show themselves. Also in the resources part of the forum i've posted an rebuild/repair of OD solenoids with pics. Best DJ

Governor cap showing broken wire tab at top of photo. I've had a governor that looked just like yours. I straightened what was left of the tab that's broken and found another like thickness metal that I tinned with solder with my solder gun. Did the same to the broken tab and soldered together to form the same type shape of tab. Carefully hooked up male electric connecter when trans was installed. so far so good at 2k+ miles. May as well remove the governor to do this BUT- you will Never get a wrench on the hex head part to remove! No room! Just carefully use channel lock pliers close to the base to unscrew. No gasket is used. Remove the cover and clean and re-grease the flyweights. When it's opened up you will see what i'm talking about. Very basic! DJ

Your dwell readings show that the distributor is acting like a rev limiter! Follow Tod's req. and then check the movement of the cam play side to side at high point of point opening. Believe your"re close to an answer. Best DJ

As Plymouthy says- If the whole vent mechanism including all the recessed area of the body and the vent lid is in perfect shape with a new gasket and drain is open it Should seal well. Some cars have had big rust damage in the seal-recessed area and will leak. Need to check all if your going to leave it. In the end-your choice! As said before. DJ

Not suggesting that you fill the vent But if you choose to- It's not easy to keep the cowl panel in shape during welding and will require much care and some body work (a lot?) to get it right. Done this once! Came out ok in the end, but if not required I'd choose not to do again. DJ

After looking at his pics are you sure that you can afford Him? , I;m sure I can't! Looks great! DJ

Sorry to say but many newcomers do not have a clue to the rarity of many of these tools. And select parts! The cost when found (if found) can be way out there! Riche's willingness to share these rare tools is totally lost on the new to the forum. Their loss! They do not understand and I'm not one to try to judge them, they just need to listen to an explanation of the reason behind the deposit as I doubt that Rich could Easily replace and of these tools! If they do not understand, tough !!! BYE! Please Rich do not stop your generosity because of them! Thank you for you loaning your tools at Your Requirements. Thanks for doing this even if I have not personally Borrowed and of your tools! DJ

Don't understand why.? I put a 230 crank and rods in a previously 218 motor. Works great! DJ

Can you borrow 2 tools from friends? a pump type vacuum bleeder, because they have a vacuum gauge that can also be used to check an engine vac. as Jeff suggested. a dwell meter to check your point gap, just not at idle but also a higher rpms to see to if it changes. If does much at all will show up any worn dist. shaft bushings. That check can also be done with just set your points on high point of a lobe and manually pushing the top of the shaft toward the high point and then away from it. should have almost no movement of the point gap. I have seen so much wear in the bushings that a car that idled perfectly well after normal tuneup attempted almost be undriveable at any higher speed due to dwell change. Another thought! DJ

Tod after talking to you I did finally revisit your website, Damn just the typing with my 2 fingers would have taken a year at least. Oh ya, the info on there is well organized and very informative. A jewel is what I'm to to say! DJ

So the only difference between the two are only the crank and piston arms( rod bolts-from another earlier post) ?? DJ

Fairly cheap at the US vs. AUS. prices and you could have them overnight air shipped! The only downside is having to pick up at AUS. customs at the airport. Very reasonable shipping! Sorry about saying that but, (12 +) years ago i was in working in Brisbane and then Sidney and occasionally my US co. did Ship packages up to 20 lb.s overnight air from the US. Never saw the price and DID not want to know either ! Was not always sure it was needed that badly. I'm just a worker! As long as I was not paying for it. DJ

My biggest concern about the 33 Ply. was I never had a chance to ride in it! Going only straight on a quiet road of course! DJ

A friends brother in law put a 440? with cross ram manifold in a 33 Ply. fender less coupe about 25 years ago. If believe was a stock frame. Was told it was a blast going straight ahead if you could keep it there, but never accelerate hard in a corner. One wheel would come off the ground about 6"! Saw him do at corner once as he romped on the gas. Just about did a 360 in front of oncoming traffic! Sold the car when a baby came into his marriage. Wanted to stay alive! DJ

My guess- 440 with cross ram-no hemi ? DJ

Easier is sometimes the best way in the long run and add in original operation and looks. I'd look that way first! Your choice! DJ

Since you have looked at universal fire wall mounted MC, have you looked at the under floor universal Floor mounted pedal brake setups? Even more of those avail. out there. I believe that i've seen someone here in the way past post that a co.called mbm brakes? made a floor mounted setup for our cars. (norms coupe? He's no longer with us ). Maybe a web search for the same?? DJ

I absolutely loved Pete's (blueskies on this site) experiences and the way he documented the steps! For those not familiar with him (not on this site much any more, as the car has been sold), Our loss! To see his total build of his 50 Ply. 4 dr. go to: 50plymouth.com DJ

The 50 Ply. parts book only shows two different part #'s used. Stock 1" dia. shaft and a 1 3/8" shaft heavy duty with NO model breakdown per application. So, either should fit all models. Just suggest using a heavy duty cross over shock for 50 Plymouth. Have found Monroe 3100 or 5752 May be what you need. Monroe has a website and look around their site and find the spec. page . gives all open/closed measurements, mount type, size of the mount, etc.of all the shocks they make. Then do a search for that make and # for the best price avail.!! Best. DJ

On a p-15 the base of the light is supposed to be grounded to body and a hot supplied by door switch (s) and/or pillar switch(s). Interesting as the P-17 on did the opposite. Hot to the light full time and switch (s) provided the ground connection.! DJ

Obliviously a not too good a joke!! In high school 67-68 ,another student had a 37 or 38 pontiac 4dr.. Nice car, original interior, new paint with a 389 HP eng. with a (race) hydramatic. Worked good until he raced. Blew it up 3 times in our senior year! Should have raced for pinks with my 64 GTO? I didn't own it though, the bank did. Never raced him. Therefore the core of that joke was about that using that trans. Thought I'd explain. DJ

Check out- Joe Flanagan- recent post on the same subject. Trials and tribulations! Go to members on the top header-find Joe, then click on posts. Sorry Can't seem to just attach the page or link directly. Someday someone here will tell me how They do it all the time! DJ