pflaming

When I haul loose material, I have this plywood cover, quick on, quick off and everything under is secure.

It appears you are going to weld that hood solid, add hinges on the back and open it from the front. Not a bad idea, but I do like the butterfly wings. Or maybe you are making it into a toboggan!

Fill those tires with air, that will separate them from the formed dirt and free them to roll. If you have to, deflate first then refill, put it in neutral, get a good tractor and pull it home. If the brakes are stuck, not to worry, won't hurt a thing.

I grew up with overdrives In the '50's and with muddy, rutty, hilly roads, ice, snow, rain and drag racing I never heard of an overdrive failure. I'm getting ready to install mine. I will change the oil, wire it properly and drive it until it quits. Nice thing about that is that if it quits, you can then switch it in to manual to drive home, then put your three speed back in while you repair the OD. JMHO

Hey, are trucks included?

I have two on each side, to me they are indispensable hardware. The ability to secure what is in the bed is a must!

I understand to repair an R10 is not that difficult, so I'm going to do mine myself. I do not know of a shop, sorry. This is mine, cleaned up but not evaluated yet for workability.

Robert I will heed your advice and use the building structure sparingly, thus I have decided to raise the body with jacks and set it on secure stands. Seems from what I have read here and elsewhere that puts on the least stress. I have ample room for that and then to attend to the chassis as well. Thoughts: I have kept all my questions, ideas, and work on this car in this one thread. I spect at times it's been rebuild 101 to most and maybe to some the simplicity of my work is helpful. As I near the end of getting this car on the road, and by no means a trophy build, I have learned that a car rebuild is much more involved than a truck rebuild which I did twice. I hope some new at this as I once was will understand that perfection is not the only criteria in a build yet safety is essential, uncompromising. People look at restored / rebuilt vehicles for many reasons, many to relive old memories thus the like flathead sixes, for example. So as I reflect for a moment or two, my work has been a mechanical feast, a social experience, a great retirement hobby, and just pure enjoyment. If i I could do one more cross country trip, I would take a 90 day oval trip around this country and have coffee with as many forum members who would meet with me. Some meetings would be individual, others could be small groups, whichever all would be so enjoyable. To all this is my happy New Year message to you from my shop.

My first goal is to get my legs back, the knee replacement has healed yet muscles are weak. My second is to get the Suburban legal and usable, details will be as time and suddenly aging torso allow. In September I'm 80! Yikes! My third goal is make it to September.

I spent part of today researching auto body removal. Since I have a rafter held hoist. I will raise the front end with that and raise the back end with jacks, then set the frame on bridged stands. My building is long enough to roll the chassis forward or backward or entirely out into the alley. So that settles that. The body sans the chassis is not all that heavy.

A couple of weeks ago I cut all the body mount bolts so I can remove it from the chassis. So the question is, how do I do that without torquing, twisting the body. I will have a large fork lift so I will be able to lift it. Now how do I get hold of the body, I would guess putting long forks through the door and window openings will not be recommended.

Today drove to Fresno, 45 miles and stopped at Turners Wreckinng on the way home. So took me a picture.

I have a T 142 48827 engine which is a truck '48/49 engine. What, if any is the difference between that and a car (P) engine of the same approximate year. If memory is correct, the difference is in the choice of piston rings.

I put in a 10' X 10' rollup, none too large.

FIRES MAKE ME NERVOUS!

"airlines, or plan for airlines" !!!! helioport or landing strip? LOL

I pee into a small can, then I territorialize the door sills to keep the cats out! Stops the armadillos also, don't know if it stops the Roos down under. LOL

To replace the shop that burned to the ground four years ago, I went with a steel building with 10' walls and open ceiling. I was told I could only go 8 ' walls but when the agreed that the wall height was measured from the foundation and I said then I will put in 24" cinder block foundation, they relented. The open ceiling is golden. The building is 38' L X 18' W with 10' walls. I have a roll up door in one end. Oh, welder and torch are by the rollup door. Fire protection a must, height a must. I built an office in one end with a old school wall for odds and ends.

Kendall, the food is all frozen solid, will have to wait for spring!LOL

Los, to set up a place for him is very admirable. Even after he is blind, he will know what you are doing and which tools.

Here in central California temps have been around 74 degrees, will cool off next week to mid 60's, and no salt. This is much too warm for the orchards, but nice living weather. We need cold, foggy weather now.

I hate to do this but our high today was 73, 75 for tomorrow then into the 60's next week. This is much too warm for fruit trees which need cold weather to drive the sap down so it will come back up strong in early March with a good bloom.

At 80 in September, I'm the oldest thus far in this thread. My first car was a 37 Ford two door sedan with mechanical brakes and a V8 engine, a bad combination so I didn't drive it very much. I paid $40 for it. My first driver car Dad bought for me, a '50 Plymouth fastback at that time the ugliest car on the road, to me. Drove it three years which included a round trip from Western Nebraska to Fresno, Ca via Las Vegas. I owned only one MOPAR a 1970 Fury III, with a huge engine. Now I have a '52 Dodge truck and building a '53 Plymouth Suburban . I'm getting too stiff and sore for this hobby, yet I really enjoy it. Til I started on the truck , the most I had ever done on a car was change tires and oil.

When it gets cold I always think about these guys.

Branded yes. I measured what I thought would be the rods correct length. Then I put a tight fit hose sleeve over the first push rod, then a stub rod into the end of the hose to complete the length plus some. Then I applied pressure with the pedal to get a nice fit, I removed both rodsm measured the distance and welded on a rod stub that was 1/16th inch shorter. It fits perfect. The brake spring keeps it snug but cannot move the master cylinder plunger. Just my two silver penny's worth.