pflaming

I tap the glass ver lightly with a light mallet to jar the glass bowl free from the gasket to which it is firmly attached, easier to jar loose than to twist.

The problem with driving out the pin is its location. There is little sledge head swing room. I now have the second pin drilled out. Seems the best way for me. I would guess those pins were pressed in at the factory.

I would guess that glass preparation is the foundation of a quality film tint. Any suggestions from those who have tinted their own windows?

I found this in some of my Mom's things, it was never sent. What national building project did Ike start for national defense purposes which we enjoy today? What was his primary campaign slogan? Who was his VP. Which years was he president? Who preceded him? For What specific thing do you remember him?

Drove the truck to pick up the Christmas tree. I got lots of compliments.

TKS for the tip, I knew that, the pin moved then no go. Got to rest the new knee today, overworked it yesterday. But I'll get it out.

The pin shown came out, for the other side I bought a quality short punch and started to drive it with a 30 oz small sledge, it moved an 1/8 of an inch and went solid. I even heated it yellow hot and it still won't move any further. So, will have to drill it out as well. Little stubborn items like this eat up lots of time and energy. Update: I just added up the hard numbers to install disc brakes up front and put new shoes and cylinder kits in the rear, replacement master cylinder and new lines. Currently I have nearly $700 invested. Labor is NOT included. It does add up. Fortunately for me I just sold $1,000 in parts and have been building this Suburban from used parts sales from the other two suburbans I had. Patience on partsneeded can save a ton of $$$.

One spindle is removed. That pin was really tight. All looks good though, now to drill out the holes and tap for the new bolts.

I thought Murphy's cat died in my shop fire!

i could not get that pin to move so I'm drilling it out! The drill bit is all the way through, diiner call stopped the task for tonight. I hope I can drive the other pin. I drilled out where the chisel mark is but no go.

I presented Rusty Hopes list of require parts to three parts stores today. All three at $340 +\-. One offered a cash discount at $280 which I took. It still pays to shop around. now I have a question. My truck spindle had a bolt that centered and locked the king pin in place. This '53 Plymouth apparently has a driven in pin. I spect it will require a good punch and a heavy hammer to drive it out. Maybe an opposing "anvil" as well. Is this how it comes out? Edit: After some more research, that is a pressed in pin. The non-head end will have a deep chisel mark which spreads that part of the pin and secures it. Use a dremmel tool and grind away that swelled edge and the pin the drives out.

We put a meter on it today and it is charging according to the book.

"Something small" how true! I could not get my new alternator to work, when I hit ig I fried wires, so disconnected it. A good friend, a mechanic looked at it yesterday. I had the wires connected to the brush bolts!!! DAH!

1. I had to heat that hub to get it to pop so I wonder if that damaged the seal. The other drum popped free without any heat and the backing plate et.al., is dry. 2. I received my front disc kit from Rusty Hope today, so now I have work to do.

One rear drum is off, will need new cylinder kits and shoes, not much of a surprise.

That is a great looking truck. There has to be plenty of inexpensive axles to replace that one, yet I find it hard to believe it will only go 25 mph. You must be over looking something. I would look under the truck and follow the rods. Good luck!

Looks to me like the turn off to Tim's BBQ in April, but then my eyesight is wanting! LOL

Study how this bushing works, what I recall is that as it draws in, it centers the spring to the frame so you have to quess how far to thread it into the spring before you then attach and thread it on the shackle, oh and I think some are left hand threads, some right hand. Been a while, STML is part of today's existence, but then next year I put an 8 on the front of my age.

It should turn out. I would turn it back and forth to loosen the rust in the threads and maybe put some pressure on the back end to get it past the stuck area. I had similar challenges when I removed a leaf from my springs. JMHO

I saw these two in the Sam garage in Winnipeg two summers ago. Very nice cars, beautiful.

Yesterday I removed the front drum brakes and ordered my second kit from Rustyhope. I fully agree with the above. I also laid in all new lines as well. If $215 warps your budget, this hobby may not be for you. Whatever, be very careful what you do, and my best regards.

Pick n Pull is runnning 1/2 price on everything purchased through Sunday. I'm going to pick up a Cherokee rear axle with disc brakes tomorrow. Very inexpensive brake update for my suburban. You might give your salvage yards a call.

Well, I'm committed! The front brakes are OFF and an order for Rustyhope's disc kit is being prepared. I'm not certain what I will with the rear brakes. So now I have a complete front oem set.

I will be removing an entire set of original brakes front and rear and install discs. For the cost vs benefits and work involved I'm going to go all disc. What I find interesting is that original drums are expensive yet off market are a fraction of the cost. Are the off market parts that inferior or are the original that scarce? Whatever, once removed I will check them for problems, clean them then list them for sale probably mid next week. Front driver's side drum and back plate shown in picture.