pflaming

Need some help? I can trailer it and the "AUXILIARY BBQ ROD SQUAD" can finish it over lunch! They are a special covey of women! LOL

Hey, you going to make the BBQ? Three things remain for me, windshield wipers, check the valves adjustment, and new rear shocks and oh, an 8 track radio and country western music?

This morning I did a cabin sound test using a decimeter ap on my iPad. The result(s): between 1500 and 2200 rpm's the decibels are 98 - 102 hardly discernible to the human ear. Next week I will readjust the valves and test again. The decibel change from 1500 - 2200 was not discernible. It it would be interesting to know what the levels are in other similar trucks. To be continued.

I removed the second from the bottom leaf on all four springs which lowered it 2" front and back. Mine as in my shop when it burned to the ground so I now have a different exterior. I have discs on front, 3:73 rear axle and 12 volt otherwise stock. Your treatment of the original paint looks fantastic, I rattle canned mine, clear, and will redo the with a good gun. Welcome

Brent, I agree! My Dad's tractor, found and restored in 2015.

Will that grill fit in a '53 Plymouth? It would be very close, that is a great grill.

Butter milk, rye bread, butter and sliced cucumbers! YES bring buttermilk!

"Well, there goes all the fun. Now what will I do?" We behave ourselves! We do not cross even the fine line, that is the beauty of this forum. I've been forewarned and I accept that.

My son downloaded a DecibelMeter ap. I will do a second reading now and report back. Then I install new body mounts, adjust the valves, and reexamine my door seals and do a third decibel test. My final applications will be an AM radio with Wille Nelson, the coal miner's daughter and the Sons of the Pioneers music turned up! I'll put a rifle rack across the rear window with a Daisy Air Rifle, some "Sock It To You" mud flaps, my "Make America Great Again" white cap on the dash, and maybe hang a donkey tail from the back bumper.

Plymouthy told me a number of years ago to be very careful not change the engineer's decisions because they engineer per optimum results at the start. That might not be a fully accurate paraphrase of PA but it serves correct in this discussion. I went to the car manual to rediscover that the overdrive was matched with a 4:11 rear axle. The above comments show what happens when put with a 3:73 and with a truck body. So I'm not going to put the OD in even though it would be fine for the driver who understands the limitations. Since this truck will go to my daughter, the sensible thing to give her is the simplicity and dependability of the three speed with the 3:73 rear axle. Once again the value of this forum especially for the novice mechanic, which I remain. Now I have an R10 Overdrive for sale. Interested, price is negotiable.

I can still recall when Dad came home with a car exactly like this one except for the whitewall tires. Options were: backup lights, rear windshield wiper, and under the front passenger seat heater. I wonder how they ran defroster tubes, maybe it had two heaters.

Horses always drop their apples in the same location. Observe them to determine their habits, change the environment just prior to their arrival to force them elsewhere. They will not return. A radio with harsh drum music turned low might do the trick. If he has dogs and you do not, play HIGH sounds to annoy his dogs at night, keep them awake while you sleep, get some of Plymouthy's pet armadillos and turn them loose at night, or maybe an old feral pig. Hide an automatic cat feeder on his property an refill it each night, got to get quietly creative. Plant a off set dual row of columnar evergreen trees with a row of popular trees, thebpopular trees will out grow the evergreen trees but the evergreen trees will out live the popular trees.

Question, if the engine in OD is just above the lugging down point, wouldn't it tend to run hot!

Here is my original blue. Sure hated to lose it.

Tire size, rearend ratio, and rpm = speed P235 75 15 = 28.8 inches in diameter With 3.73 at 2500 RPM = 57 mph 3.73 @250440NDand OD= 2162 rpM Anything under 2000 rpm might not be the greatest and you are getting under the powerband... I have a 3.73 rear so with OD at 2162, mph would be 57. That certainly would not be of help in the mountains and on rolling hilly roads marginal? Maybe better rethink the OD. Would be nice in many Calif freeways but that's not where the fun stuff is.

"So why do you need overdrive if your cruising on the freeway at 2500 rpms? Do you plan on cruising at 80 mph? At what speed is your 2500 rpm?" As I find noise reductions, my need for overdrive is waning, yet on the open road after a couple of hours a quieter ride would be much less tiring. I love to drive this truck distances. I enjoy locking the foot in place and listen to the engine as I go. The trek to the BBQ is about 2.5 hours so preparing for that one next. My speedometer is not accurate so I need to get me a pace car and determine what 2500 in fact is.

Saturday I mothballed my suburban until my legs are stronger and my carpel Tunnel is relieved. So I'm detailing my truck for the BBQ weekend.

Jeff, yours like these? So I just spent $250 sooner than I should have?

Yesterday I replaced my aggressive rear truck tires with new passenger car tires of same size. Checking off noise makers in the B3B. Valve readjustment is next, then new body mounts. Getting ready for the BBQ weekend. I'm planning on driving home via Jamestown then Sunday through Yosemite, join me, be great fun to caravan a number of old MOPARs and other makes through that valley. Waterfalls should be great then.

T120, be thankful for cold clean AIR!

The trucks which hauled sugarbeets and ear corn often had such beds. Grain tight was not required, and drop down sides made for fast unloading. I would keep that bed, unusual for certain.

Your letters have a different font than mine. Note especially the corners on the" E". Your holes look like they were punched not drilled. What was its previous life ? At second look, your gate print is quite different than mine

I was having similar challenges, would charge, wouldn't charge so I drove it to a generator/alternator shop. The alternator was working fine but . . . He backed off a bit then said, tighten the belt, which he and I had checked. I tightened it and bingo. My adjustment arm took me just to the line, New longer arm required. And I'm noticing my battery cables look questionable, so tomorrow new cables with attention to how clean the ground cable is to the engine, gets dirty under there. Good luck on your challenge.

Offer to help him with any mechanical problems he might have with his vehicles.

To the mechanical expert forgive me for the simple things I personally discover as I work my new hobby. For example, I just learned why the acid junk accumulates at the battery posts. If the accumulation is on the positive post the battery is being over charged, if on the negative post the battery is being undercharged. I am assuming that even in the best care for system over and under charging is on going, thus the need to periodically clean the posts and why felt protectors are used and terminal cleaners exist. That said, then if improperly maintained, the posts are constantly corroding and stress is constant on the generator/alternater and battery. H,m,m,m.