Merle Coggins

Need more information. What did the temp gauge show? How full was the radiator before starting the engine? If it was too full to begin with it is normal to puke out a bit of coolant to find the proper level. Did you check the temps with an infrared temp gun? Was the cooling system flushed/cleaned at all during the revival from its slumber?

$66 seems steep to me, but I haven’t priced one lately. I recall that I gave $25 for a set of duals at a local swap meet 10+ years ago. Do the horns on the truck not work, or are you trying to achieve a more period correct look?

They can be cleaned up and painted.

I believe a couple of the bushings are left hand thread, but I don't recall which ones. Maybe this video from Tim Estrada, a.k.a. "48Dodger" will help you.

I believe it's 5 quarts, without a filter. May need up to 6 with a filter. If it's the original engine it should be a 218 CID. Check the flat milled surface just above the generator. The engine number should be stamped there. If original it would be T172*_ _ _ _ . Of you need to do some measuring. Measure the length of the head. 23" engines are basically 2 different displacements with the difference coming with the stroke. To measure the stroke you need to remove the small 1/8" pipe plug over #6 piston and measure the stroke length with a long piece of wire. That's the only way to know for sure.

You guys don't know jack... ? I found this jack at a Restore a few years ago for $10, or so, and had to buy it. I don't use it, but it was too cool to leave there. I have a storage box in the bed of my truck to keep a few things. One of those things is a jack similar to this. It's much more useful when needed. So far it's only been needed to help others, but it's been handy to have. I haven't tried, but it would it might even fit under the seat

4 or 5 tumblers, but each one usually has 2 or 3 possible lengths. So that expands the spectrum a bit more, but still possible to duplicate combinations.

My truck only has one key for ign and door.

Don’t need to hear it. That’s why there’s a tach on the dash. I can see when the engine’s running. ?

I have a small handheld CB in my company truck. It gets used for communication within quarry’s where my customers work. I’ll turn it on once in a while while driving, but don’t hear much chatter on the roads anymore. I also have one built into my Honda Gold Wing. Use that one for communication during group rides.

Oil filter mounts there. It’s a full flow system vs. your bypass system.

I've seen some that leave the bell housing in the chassis, but you'll have to pull the trans, clutch, and flywheel in order to separate the block and bell housing. Or you can remove the clutch and brake pedals so that the whole assembly will clear the steering shaft. It can be done either way.

Nice looking truck. I'll let someone else verify the air filter oil, but I believe anything SAE 30 or heavier would work. The filter canister looks the same as mine, a Deluxe Filter, which uses the sock type filter. Is there any information stamped into the top cover ? If it is a Deluxe Filter, it would specify a JC filter element. I recommend the Baldwin JC405. It's a better fit than the Wix, or Napa, filter. The fuel gauge may be disconnected after the 12v conversion. It would need a voltage reducing resistor to lower the supply voltage. Also, if the sender, and tank, aren't well grounded the gauge won't work either. That is fairly common on these older trucks, especially if the tank has been painted, or coated. The horn doesn't look right for a Dodge. The back isn't as rounded on the original horns. However, why would you want to put a 6 volt horn on if converted to 12 volts?

My opinion, for what it’s worth... Spend the money and do it right the first time.

Invest in a good battery maintainer/charger. And as mentioned earlier, if you have a AGM battery, be sure the charger/maintainer is AGM compatable. I have one that I keep on my truck over the winter, or during longer periods of non-use. My last battery lasted close to 6 years.

You could also contact Antique Auto Parts Cellar, (a.k.a. Then-and-Now Automotive) for a rebuild kit for your existing pump. They are good quality parts that will hold up to today's gasoline's. http://www.then-now-auto.com/fuel-pumps/

I was going to suggest the same question as Don stated above. It sounds like you are on ported vacuum, not manifold vacuum. Also, for future reference, vacuum is measured in Inches of Mercury, or inHg, not PSI. It would actually be a negative number if reading PSI.

I don't see a rubber mount between the cab and the mount arm. This is the cab mount arrangement from the shop manual. I don't have any measurements.

Unless it’s worn into the cam lobe, it looks normal to me.

I don’t know what your width requirement is, but I believe early 2000’s Jeep Grand Cherokee’s have 5x5” wheels. It may be an axle option for you. Also, some of the 70’s - 80’s Ford sedans had 5x5” wheels too

Looks like the fuel pump lobe.

I have this dwell meter. It is marked 12v, but it works just fine on my 6v pos ground truck. It only has 2 wires. One goes to the wire between the distributor and coil, the other goes to ground. Just need to verify your polarity. Since most 12v vehicles with points use some sort of voltage reducing resistor for the ignition system, the points work with approximately the same voltage as a 6v vehicle.

Welcome to the "family" Dogeed. Your fuel tank is 15-18 gallon. I believe there were a couple of sizes available. Is it a 3 speed, or 4 speed? Column shift, or floor shift? 3 speeds should be synchronized in 2nd and 3rd. Early 4 speeds are spur gear (no synchros), but the later 4 speeds have synchros. As for the gauges, the oil pressure and temp are mechanical. If they aren't working they may not be connected, or someone cut the capillary tube for the temp gauge. The ammeter should be connected inline with the entire electrical system, so if it's not working it may have been bypass for some reason. Has someone upgraded to 12 volts and an alternator? And the fuel gauge issue could be the sender, or not connected because of the 12v conversion(?).

Awesome craftsmanship and ingenuity.

I couldn't read the model, but the serial number would identify it as a '49 B-1-C build in the Los Angeles plant. Saltrock, the column shift didn't start until the B-2 series. That floor shift could be either a 3 speed or a 4 speed. Also, it looks like it may have had a rear axle change. The one picture looks like a dual style wheel. Unless someone found dual wheels with a 5 X 5" pattern, and put longer studs in, I would suspect an axle swap.