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Merle Coggins

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Everything posted by Merle Coggins

  1. When I disassembled my engine most, if not all, valves were stuck pretty good. I managed to get the cam to rotate enough to push all valved to their open position. Then I flipped the block up-side-down, so all of the tappets were away from the cam, and pulled the cam. Once the cam was out I could remove the tappets and used a long punch to drive the valves out from the bottom.
  2. That's interesting. I just looked in my parts catalog and I see that they changed to a straight bore front wheel cylinder with the B3's, at S/N 82267098. Before that they used the step bore cylinders, with the larger bore to the rear.
  3. It could, if there is a high load and at lower RPM the water pump and fan spin slower. Do you have any interior sound deadening material in your truck? That goes a long ways to quiet things down.
  4. Is that the same chassis that you pulled the engine out of? Edit: Never mind... I just went back and looked at the pictures and answered my own question...
  5. I wonder if someone had a company nameplate riveted across the tailgate at one time.
  6. Yup... That certainly looks like a 3/4 ton bed side panel with the front cut off. Since you're building on a different chassis you will likely need to modify a bed to fit anyway. If you keep your eyes open you will probably find a decent set of bed sides that will suit your purpose. Also, You may want to start a new thread about your truck.
  7. Both, although I haven’t seen him post here in quite some time. Www.rustyhope.com.
  8. Can you post pictures of the bed panels? I wonder if someone cut down 3/4 ton bed sides to fit a half ton truck. “Original under the dash AM Radio”... They were never under the dash, so I don’t believe it’s “original”. Sounds like an aftermarket add on. The proper factory radio has a vertical tuner dial and mounts in the dash to the left of the steering column.
  9. I believe the original wood was southern yellow pine. It may have been different on the west coast built trucks. Mine is made out of hickory because a friend had a bunch of left over hickory boards that were too light for his cabinet building. We glued them up to get the width needed and he milled them for me based on specs I provided. I got the milling instructions form Mar-K. I also got my bed strips from them. http://www.mar-k.com/_assets/images/instructions/bed_wood_dimensions.pdf Do you know anyone with a wood working shop?
  10. I'm guessing this truck doesn't get driven much. Very nice show piece though.
  11. Cheese? LOL!!!
  12. Interesting... My wife is also from Wisconsin I never have that problem...
  13. Why would an Industrial 251 be any different than a 251 in a DeSoto car, or Dodge Truck? The basic engine should be the same, except for any installation specific items. I doubt you'd be able to find an oil pump gear. By the time you track one down and spend the time swapping it onto your pump you could have installed a new replacement pump with a new gear. Merle
  14. I don't see lock rings in your pictures. It's quite possible someone updated the rims. I don't know the larger trucks very well, but I remember them having 20" rubber.
  15. My front support bracket looked pretty much the same. I welded it up and haven't had any issues so far.
  16. Looking at some pictures I have when I rebuilt my brakes, It appears that you could possibly replace the outer seal without removing the brake assembly. Drill a couple holes through the seal and use sheet metal screws to pry it out. I have little slide hammers with replaceable screw tips for this purpose. But this begs a question... Are the outer seals bad? Are they leaking grease? If they are, and the grease is a bit runny, that would indicate that the inner seals are bad and the gear oil has contaminated, and diluted, the grease in the bearings.
  17. Could it be from condensation, or has it been open to the elements at any time? Are you sure it's coming from the cooling system? Maybe change the oil, run it, and see if the water comes back?
  18. The upper port is in the oil pressure galley and would be the pressure feed to your bypass filter. The lower port is the return/drain from the filter. It goes down through the oil pressure regulator spool. When pressure is low, and the spool is closed, it will block the return flow so that you can't flow oil through your filter. When the oil pressure is at a "normal" value, the valve is open to allow flow from your filter to return to the sump.
  19. Well, I guess you're working at the right place for that kind of inside knowledge...
  20. Will you need any of the wiring / ECU's for the engine or trans? Are you going to keep the floor and firewall and graft the new cab over the top of it?
  21. When you mentioned a "3 jaw puller" I was picturing one of these... What you have IS similar to what I posted earlier, but as Tim said, the other ones are a bit beefier, and with the slugger wrench on the end you can gain a lot of leverage with a decent size hammer. It is often recommended to leave the nut on the end, loose, to keep things from flying when it pops loose.
  22. A slide hammer puller isn’t going to get it done. You need one of these...
  23. I ran over there as a spectator only on Friday. That show is about a 45 minute drive west of me, but I am rarely able to get over there that weekend.
  24. You need the proper hub puller. NOT a 3 jaw puller. The proper puller attaches to the lugs. A 3 jaw can/will ruin your brake drum. The drum to axle connection is on a tapered shaft. These can become rather attached to each other.
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