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Merle Coggins

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Everything posted by Merle Coggins

  1. The Wix 51011, or Napa 1011, are correct cross reference replacement filters for the Deluxe JC element. However, they seem to be manufactured too fat. They will fit if you roll them against the bench like kneading bread dough, then pressing it into the canister. Not much fun. I have found that the Baldwin JC405 is a much better fit. Slips in without much effort and fits nicely.
  2. My first thought was heater hose passing over that area. It could also be a head bolt seeping coolant past the threads and oozing out under the head. It’s unlikely that a leak at the thermostat housing would not leave any evidence in #1 & #2, and collect in #3, but I suppose it’s possible.
  3. I used AW32 Tractor Hydraulic fluid from Farm and Fleet. I believe that's about as close as you're going to get.
  4. I had to drill out the lock screw on my truck. I was then able to retap it and replaced it with a normal set screw with a Allen wrench type end. I don't recall the size, but #4 or #5 seems to stick in my head. I remember it was small. If you have the inner door panel off you can drive out the old one with a good punch and hammer. However, since it is damaged anyway you won't have to worry about drilling into it while extracting the retaining screw.
  5. I believe it’s a metal plug, similar to an electrical box knockout plug.
  6. There is a pipe plug in the end of the oil pressure gallery, behind the bell housing. It not be tightened properly? Or the welsh plug at the end of the camshaft bore is leaking?
  7. Go to the hardware store and get a piece of 5/16 key stock. Then either use a Crescent wrench on it, or bend a 90 on one end and make it into a wrench
  8. Is that extra length just to allow room for the retaining nuts on a FD unit?
  9. Got a vacuum leak somewhere? Manifold gasket, carb base gasket, somewhere?
  10. I think Don's points are a slightly different design, and likely a different manufacturer, so may connect differently.
  11. Hmm... interesting... I don't remember how mine hooked in, but once I figured it out it was fine. Could it go on the inside of the copper band and hook underneath it?
  12. I had the same issue with a set just like you linked. That extra spring piece should hook into the points arm. I don't have a picture to show it, but there should have a slot in the arm for the tab to hook into. Then when it wraps around the pivot and is attached to the screw post it will add the tension you need. Once I figured that out they worked just fine for many years.
  13. If it was leaking at the seat gasket there would also be soot in the cup area.
  14. One of my previous company trucks had 1 bad license plate light out of the 2 in the bumper. I determined that the socket/fixture was faulty, as a new bulb didn't fix it. I picked up a new light assembly at Ford and put it in my desk drawer for safe keeping until I could get the time to install it. A few years after that truck got sold I discovered the light assembly still in my desk drawer. Oops...
  15. I have a 218 in my truck with an 8 hole crank flange, because my truck has Fluid Drive.
  16. Most modern auto stereos draw 2-3 amps max., so your 5 amp converter should be sufficient.
  17. You'll still have to plug the bottom outlet. If you can't get a line fitting to seal in the threads why would a plug threads seal? Maybe inspect the port threads closely when you have it apart. There may even be a crack in the housing at the port that is causing your leak.
  18. I'm confused... You say that the crank is turned 0.030" under, and you found bearings for 0.040" under journals and you are looking for another crank? Why not turn it down another 0.010" and use the bearings you found? No 0.030" bearing shells available anywhere? Did you have your machine shop check with their sources?
  19. They just go by Then and Now Automotive now. The web site says, "A Division of Antique Parts Cellar". I've used them a couple of times for fuel pump kits. Good quality parts, and good folks to deal with when there's a question on what you have. http://www.then-now-auto.com/fuel-pumps/
  20. That card with the thin "washer" shrink wrapped to it... That's your shims.
  21. Based on that picture, I’m guessing that the stamped cups hold it all. Likely a brass thrust washer between 2 steel washers.
  22. Mine is different, with Fluid Drive, but I'm thinking the spacer should be between the pedals, not between the brake pedal and the shaft support bushing. On the B-series trucks parts manual it shows a support bracket between the pedals, but otherwise a similar setup.
  23. If it was described as having a thrust bearing, and not a thrust washer, I'd make them correct it. The bearing will provide much better steering effort.
  24. There you go, Ed. Brent and I are just expanding the meaning of the day. Maybe it should be "International Work On Your (or somebody's) Truck Day. ? Either way we're doing our part to keep old Dodge trucks on the road.
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