Merle Coggins
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Everything posted by Merle Coggins
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I believe it’s a metal plug, similar to an electrical box knockout plug.
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There is a pipe plug in the end of the oil pressure gallery, behind the bell housing. It not be tightened properly? Or the welsh plug at the end of the camshaft bore is leaking?
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Roxanne - She don't have to put on the red light.
Merle Coggins replied to FlashBuddy's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Go to the hardware store and get a piece of 5/16 key stock. Then either use a Crescent wrench on it, or bend a 90 on one end and make it into a wrench -
Is that extra length just to allow room for the retaining nuts on a FD unit?
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Got a vacuum leak somewhere? Manifold gasket, carb base gasket, somewhere?
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I think Don's points are a slightly different design, and likely a different manufacturer, so may connect differently.
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Hmm... interesting... I don't remember how mine hooked in, but once I figured it out it was fine. Could it go on the inside of the copper band and hook underneath it?
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I had the same issue with a set just like you linked. That extra spring piece should hook into the points arm. I don't have a picture to show it, but there should have a slot in the arm for the tab to hook into. Then when it wraps around the pivot and is attached to the screw post it will add the tension you need. Once I figured that out they worked just fine for many years.
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If it was leaking at the seat gasket there would also be soot in the cup area.
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One of my previous company trucks had 1 bad license plate light out of the 2 in the bumper. I determined that the socket/fixture was faulty, as a new bulb didn't fix it. I picked up a new light assembly at Ford and put it in my desk drawer for safe keeping until I could get the time to install it. A few years after that truck got sold I discovered the light assembly still in my desk drawer. Oops...
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I have a 218 in my truck with an 8 hole crank flange, because my truck has Fluid Drive.
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aftermarket radio and speaker installation
Merle Coggins replied to bluefoxamazone's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Most modern auto stereos draw 2-3 amps max., so your 5 amp converter should be sufficient. -
50 B2B master cylinder rebuild question
Merle Coggins replied to Iowaboy's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
You'll still have to plug the bottom outlet. If you can't get a line fitting to seal in the threads why would a plug threads seal? Maybe inspect the port threads closely when you have it apart. There may even be a crack in the housing at the port that is causing your leak. -
I'm confused... You say that the crank is turned 0.030" under, and you found bearings for 0.040" under journals and you are looking for another crank? Why not turn it down another 0.010" and use the bearings you found? No 0.030" bearing shells available anywhere? Did you have your machine shop check with their sources?
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They just go by Then and Now Automotive now. The web site says, "A Division of Antique Parts Cellar". I've used them a couple of times for fuel pump kits. Good quality parts, and good folks to deal with when there's a question on what you have. http://www.then-now-auto.com/fuel-pumps/
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That card with the thin "washer" shrink wrapped to it... That's your shims.
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Based on that picture, I’m guessing that the stamped cups hold it all. Likely a brass thrust washer between 2 steel washers.
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Brake and clutch pedal binding
Merle Coggins replied to TylerB46's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Mine is different, with Fluid Drive, but I'm thinking the spacer should be between the pedals, not between the brake pedal and the shaft support bushing. On the B-series trucks parts manual it shows a support bracket between the pedals, but otherwise a similar setup. -
If it was described as having a thrust bearing, and not a thrust washer, I'd make them correct it. The bearing will provide much better steering effort.
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7th Annual "International Work On Your Truck Day"
Merle Coggins replied to 48Dodger's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
There you go, Ed. Brent and I are just expanding the meaning of the day. Maybe it should be "International Work On Your (or somebody's) Truck Day. ? Either way we're doing our part to keep old Dodge trucks on the road. -
So, you cranked until you got compression on #1. Did you then rotate the crank to the 0 TDC mark on the pulley before indexing your wires? Maybe you have an exhaust valve, or 2, that are sticking open causing the backfire through the carb?
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If the plural for Goose is Geese, would the plural for Moose be Meese? ?
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Need more data to formulate suggestions... 1. I assume you pulled the distributor out when you replaced the points, etc? Did you reinstall it with the rotor pointing the same direction it was when removed? It sounds like it may be 180 degrees off. 2. How did you set the points gap/dwell? 3. Have you connected a timing light yet, or set your static timing with a test light?
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Couple of observations... 1. I see 8 nuts, 2 bolts, and 2 studs that came out with the nuts. That equals 12. There should be 13, so I'm thinking you missed one. 2. The conical nuts/washers are installed incorrectly on the two studs shown. The cone side of the nut should fit into the cupped side of the thick washer. 3. To answer your question about the ends of the bolts... These bolts/studs go into the water jacket, so the ends have corroded off due to the coolant exposure. When you reassemble, use thread sealant on the bolts and studs. Not all go into the water jacket, but many of them do.
