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Merle Coggins

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Everything posted by Merle Coggins

  1. Merle Coggins
    Is that extra length just to allow room for the retaining nuts on a FD unit?
  2. Merle Coggins
  3. Merle Coggins
    Got a vacuum leak somewhere? Manifold gasket, carb base gasket, somewhere?
  4. Merle Coggins
    I think Don's points are a slightly different design, and likely a different manufacturer, so may connect differently.
  5. Merle Coggins
    Hmm... interesting... I don't remember how mine hooked in, but once I figured it out it was fine. Could it go on the inside of the copper band and hook underneath it?
  6. Merle Coggins
    I had the same issue with a set just like you linked. That extra spring piece should hook into the points arm. I don't have a picture to show it, but there should have a slot in the arm for the tab to hook into. Then when it wraps around the pivot and is attached to the screw post it will add the tension you need. Once I figured that out they worked just fine for many years.
  7. Merle Coggins
    If it was leaking at the seat gasket there would also be soot in the cup area.
  8. Merle Coggins
    One of my previous company trucks had 1 bad license plate light out of the 2 in the bumper. I determined that the socket/fixture was faulty, as a new bulb didn't fix it. I picked up a new light assembly at Ford and put it in my desk drawer for safe keeping until I could get the time to install it. A few years after that truck got sold I discovered the light assembly still in my desk drawer. Oops...
  9. Merle Coggins
    I have a 218 in my truck with an 8 hole crank flange, because my truck has Fluid Drive.
  10. Merle Coggins
    Most modern auto stereos draw 2-3 amps max., so your 5 amp converter should be sufficient.
  11. Merle Coggins
    You'll still have to plug the bottom outlet. If you can't get a line fitting to seal in the threads why would a plug threads seal? Maybe inspect the port threads closely when you have it apart. There may even be a crack in the housing at the port that is causing your leak.
  12. Merle Coggins
    I'm confused... You say that the crank is turned 0.030" under, and you found bearings for 0.040" under journals and you are looking for another crank? Why not turn it down another 0.010" and use the bearings you found? No 0.030" bearing shells available anywhere? Did you have your machine shop check with their sources?
  13. Merle Coggins
    They just go by Then and Now Automotive now. The web site says, "A Division of Antique Parts Cellar". I've used them a couple of times for fuel pump kits. Good quality parts, and good folks to deal with when there's a question on what you have. http://www.then-now-auto.com/fuel-pumps/
  14. Merle Coggins
    That card with the thin "washer" shrink wrapped to it... That's your shims.
  15. Merle Coggins
    Based on that picture, I’m guessing that the stamped cups hold it all. Likely a brass thrust washer between 2 steel washers.
  16. Merle Coggins
    Mine is different, with Fluid Drive, but I'm thinking the spacer should be between the pedals, not between the brake pedal and the shaft support bushing. On the B-series trucks parts manual it shows a support bracket between the pedals, but otherwise a similar setup.
  17. Merle Coggins
    If it was described as having a thrust bearing, and not a thrust washer, I'd make them correct it. The bearing will provide much better steering effort.
  18. Merle Coggins
    There you go, Ed. Brent and I are just expanding the meaning of the day. Maybe it should be "International Work On Your (or somebody's) Truck Day. ? Either way we're doing our part to keep old Dodge trucks on the road.
  19. Merle Coggins
    So, you cranked until you got compression on #1. Did you then rotate the crank to the 0 TDC mark on the pulley before indexing your wires? Maybe you have an exhaust valve, or 2, that are sticking open causing the backfire through the carb?
  20. Merle Coggins
    If the plural for Goose is Geese, would the plural for Moose be Meese? ?
  21. Merle Coggins
    Need more data to formulate suggestions... 1. I assume you pulled the distributor out when you replaced the points, etc? Did you reinstall it with the rotor pointing the same direction it was when removed? It sounds like it may be 180 degrees off. 2. How did you set the points gap/dwell? 3. Have you connected a timing light yet, or set your static timing with a test light?
  22. Merle Coggins
    Couple of observations... 1. I see 8 nuts, 2 bolts, and 2 studs that came out with the nuts. That equals 12. There should be 13, so I'm thinking you missed one. 2. The conical nuts/washers are installed incorrectly on the two studs shown. The cone side of the nut should fit into the cupped side of the thick washer. 3. To answer your question about the ends of the bolts... These bolts/studs go into the water jacket, so the ends have corroded off due to the coolant exposure. When you reassemble, use thread sealant on the bolts and studs. Not all go into the water jacket, but many of them do.
  23. Merle Coggins
    Well Ed, I did sort of work on my truck too... Not really working on my truck, but more working around my truck as I got my garage squared away after wrapping up a couple other projects. Part of that required clearing off the things that accumulate on top of my truck. I love my touneau cover, but it creates a great flat surface to collect things.
  24. Merle Coggins
    Poor brakes on that Ford... ran it right through the back wall... LOL...?
  25. Merle Coggins
    You can have the same issues on a 12 volt system if you have bad connections. A bad connection won't carry enough current regardless of what voltage you have.
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