Jump to content

Merle Coggins

Members
  • Posts

    9,399
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    87

Everything posted by Merle Coggins

  1. That card with the thin "washer" shrink wrapped to it... That's your shims.
  2. Based on that picture, I’m guessing that the stamped cups hold it all. Likely a brass thrust washer between 2 steel washers.
  3. Mine is different, with Fluid Drive, but I'm thinking the spacer should be between the pedals, not between the brake pedal and the shaft support bushing. On the B-series trucks parts manual it shows a support bracket between the pedals, but otherwise a similar setup.
  4. If it was described as having a thrust bearing, and not a thrust washer, I'd make them correct it. The bearing will provide much better steering effort.
  5. There you go, Ed. Brent and I are just expanding the meaning of the day. Maybe it should be "International Work On Your (or somebody's) Truck Day. ? Either way we're doing our part to keep old Dodge trucks on the road.
  6. So, you cranked until you got compression on #1. Did you then rotate the crank to the 0 TDC mark on the pulley before indexing your wires? Maybe you have an exhaust valve, or 2, that are sticking open causing the backfire through the carb?
  7. If the plural for Goose is Geese, would the plural for Moose be Meese? ?
  8. Need more data to formulate suggestions... 1. I assume you pulled the distributor out when you replaced the points, etc? Did you reinstall it with the rotor pointing the same direction it was when removed? It sounds like it may be 180 degrees off. 2. How did you set the points gap/dwell? 3. Have you connected a timing light yet, or set your static timing with a test light?
  9. Couple of observations... 1. I see 8 nuts, 2 bolts, and 2 studs that came out with the nuts. That equals 12. There should be 13, so I'm thinking you missed one. 2. The conical nuts/washers are installed incorrectly on the two studs shown. The cone side of the nut should fit into the cupped side of the thick washer. 3. To answer your question about the ends of the bolts... These bolts/studs go into the water jacket, so the ends have corroded off due to the coolant exposure. When you reassemble, use thread sealant on the bolts and studs. Not all go into the water jacket, but many of them do.
  10. Well Ed, I did sort of work on my truck too... Not really working on my truck, but more working around my truck as I got my garage squared away after wrapping up a couple other projects. Part of that required clearing off the things that accumulate on top of my truck. I love my touneau cover, but it creates a great flat surface to collect things.
  11. Poor brakes on that Ford... ran it right through the back wall... LOL...?
  12. You can have the same issues on a 12 volt system if you have bad connections. A bad connection won't carry enough current regardless of what voltage you have.
  13. You could advance a little more without an issue. I believe I'm running close to 5 BTDC. The vacuum advance on these works on ported vacuum, so with the throttle closed there should be no vacuum on the advance unit. You could disconnect and plug the line if you'd like, but as long as you have the proper idle setting it really isn't necessary.
  14. May not work on my truck this weekend, bit I do plan to work on a Dodge truck. The plan is to assist Kris Bolstad on a brake job for his '49 1 ton... Which reminds me... Can anyone tell me the size of the spindle nuts on the rear hubs for a B-1-D?
  15. It would help to know what filter housing you have. Is there a name on it anywhere to identify the manufacturer or model?
  16. I used to get to Asheville a couple times per year, or more, for training at Volvo Construction Equipment. Now they’ve moved their North America Headquarters, and the training center, to Shippensburg, PA, so I don’t get down there anymore.
  17. I”be been wanting to go there for a long time, but haven’t made it yet. And now I don’t get down that way as much as I used to... Brent, if you are cruising the Blue Ridge Parkway you’ll be going right through Asheville, NC. Stop and see the Biltmore Mansion. It’s an amazing estate to see.
  18. Yup. Definetly a ‘48-‘52 high side 1/2 ton bed.
  19. Ball type thrust bearing and metal bushings are much better than nylon and washer thrusts.
  20. Maybe someone swapped cabs somewhere along the way...
  21. Yes, that’s the residual valve in your fingers. Remove it from the spring and reassemble. You can probably loose the rubber washer on the end cap that it seats against too.
  22. There is a special tool to align the front seal to the damper/pulley hub when tightening the front cover bolts. In lieu of that you can install the pulley, then tighten up the front cover bolts. There is also a special tool for installing the pulley, or damper. It’s essentially a longer bolt/stud that goes into the crank to draw it on. Don’t hammer it on. That can cause damage to the thrust bearings.
  23. Maybe when I was young and foolish... Now I’m not as young... ?
  24. I'd rather rent, or buy, a tow dolly for something like that. Or, you can usually pick up a tow bar, fairly inexpensive, that can be attached to the front frame rails of the project car. Towing with a chain and second person on the towed vehicle is a LAST resort for me.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use