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Merle Coggins

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Everything posted by Merle Coggins

  1. Yes, that’s the residual valve in your fingers. Remove it from the spring and reassemble. You can probably loose the rubber washer on the end cap that it seats against too.
  2. There is a special tool to align the front seal to the damper/pulley hub when tightening the front cover bolts. In lieu of that you can install the pulley, then tighten up the front cover bolts. There is also a special tool for installing the pulley, or damper. It’s essentially a longer bolt/stud that goes into the crank to draw it on. Don’t hammer it on. That can cause damage to the thrust bearings.
  3. Maybe when I was young and foolish... Now I’m not as young... ?
  4. I'd rather rent, or buy, a tow dolly for something like that. Or, you can usually pick up a tow bar, fairly inexpensive, that can be attached to the front frame rails of the project car. Towing with a chain and second person on the towed vehicle is a LAST resort for me.
  5. Are you sure it’s aluminum? Could it just be zinc coated?
  6. If you click on the "Store" tab in the header of this page it will bring you to a link for making donations to the forum.
  7. Take that frame out and get out your tape measure. There are plenty of seats that can be made to fit. There should be 2 bolts at each corner that attach the seat frame to the riser. Pretty easy at this point with out the cushions.
  8. I didn't see the pics at first, but now they are there. I just assumed it was our firewall blocking them. If you look at your linkage pic you'll see another screw at the top. This is the pinch screw that tightens the linkage arm onto the shaft. It may be slightly loose and allowed the linkage to work its way off the shaft during use. Loosen it more, push it back on, and tighten it up. Good to go...
  9. When I rebuilt my engine I got one of Bernbaum's kits and rebuilt my water pump. There's a blind pin that retains the bushing that must be extracted before pressing it apart. This is a real bugger, but if not done you will break the housing. After all that it leaked out the shaft. Apparently the new seal didn't seat properly. I then went and purchased a new one and it's been good ever since. Save yourself the agony and just buy a new one.
  10. The AW32 oil should go into the Fluid Drive, not the transmission.
  11. I hadn’t checked recently, but I got ISO AW32 tractor hydraulic fluid at Farm & Fleet many years ago when I needed it. It’s a common hydraulic oil for ag tractors.
  12. Did you check Fleet Farm?
  13. Battery prices are climbing. I just got a new battery for my motorcycle this spring and was amazed how much more it was than the last one I got, 4 years ago.
  14. The pin you see through that hole is the king pin. That should be a threaded hole. There should be a bolt there to retain the king pin. Drill a hole in the top welsh plug and pop it out. Then use a hammer and drift to drive the king pin out the bottom.
  15. I used a slide hammer that I had available. Others have reported good ideas about using a spacer tube and the brake drum, then use the hub retaining nut to pull out the axle a little at a time. You'll need different length spacers, or shims to lengthen it as you go.
  16. That should work. Also, pick up a parts cleaning brush at your local parts store. It’ll help scrub the nooks and crannies.
  17. Mineral spirits may break down the sludge better than brake clean.
  18. That ring is a circlip of sorts that locks the 3 tab brass plate into the button. When assembled the large spring holds the brass plate into the locking fingers, and the smaller spring keeps the button contact away from the brass plate (against the circlip) until you push down on the button. Pushing the button should complete the circuit between the wire terminal and the steering column (ground). You’ll need to double check your ground wire and horn button assembly to check for an inadvertent path to ground.
  19. With 110 psi compression on the two suspect cylinders it’s unlikely that a head gasket is the culprit. You’re either not getting the spark properly or there’s a total blockage in the intake manifold feeding the front 2 cylinders. I’d first double check the plug wires to be sure they’re not crossed/reversed.
  20. I realized that after I looked closer to the picture, but it still looks like a slant flattie. LOL.
  21. Looking good Paul. Maybe this new concept of painting things will have a good influence on you... ?
  22. Lookin’ good... Are you trying to convert your flattie into a slant 6?
  23. Only if there is a valve at the back of the head that is closed. Otherwise it becomes a radiator bypass loop.
  24. B-2-B, long bell housing, and column shift (?)... Likely a Fluid drive with 3 speed unless someone has modified it.
  25. As long as you can’t see the core tubes you have enough coolant in there.
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