Merle Coggins

This is what was behind the nuts on mine. Also, a quick reminder that the 8 studs and crank flange holes aren't symmetrical. One is slightly off so that it can only go back on one way. Hopefully you marked it before removal. Otherwise study the flange closely to determine which hole is different from the rest. Then study the studs to find the one that is off a bit. Line those two up for reassembly.

1/2 - 1 ton trucks were available with FD starting with the B2 series. As for engine braking, it all depends on RPM. At higher RPM there is less slippage through the FD so it acts much like a regular setup. But at low RPM you will experience some extra ‘slippage’. I’ve never had to worry about it getting away from me on a hill due to lack of engine braking.

I just got some simple 1” nylon webbing strap from the hardware store and made up new ones.

Clutch and flywheel must be removed before removing the bell housing. The upper part of the bell housing goes between the flywheel and block. 1. Remove transmission 2. Remove clutch 3. Remove flywheel 4. Remove bell housing 5. Replace core plug 6. Reverse order for reassembly

We’ve been talking about possibly going to BBT50’s again this year.

The bow in your axle may be normal. I don’t have knowledge of the larger chassis’, but on the light trucks the front axle even has a bend in it. Some see this and believe their axle is bad, but it’s normal... I had taken some photos of a spare 3/4 ton axle for someone not long ago but I must have deleted them for some reason. Can’t seem to find them now.

Because Pat Sajak wasn’t available to buy a vowel? But didn’t the Route Vans use the “E” designation?

I believe the picture you responded to has been removed.

Well...there you go... I wasn't aware anyone offered them. Thanks Brent.

Ha... nice use of a storm window latch. There should be a “U” shaped spring at the bottom of the door, inside, to hold it closed. Nobody repops them as far as I know. Go with what works...

I have to wonder if you got the distributor in 180 degrees off after your tuneup. This would have the ignition sparking at the end of the exhaust stroke instead of on the compression stroke. If the exhaust system is loaded up with fuel from extended cranking, trying to start it, that delayed spark can ignite that fuel vapor exiting the cylinder and causing the explosion that took out your muffler. Did you have the distributor out to replace the points?

Is there a "park" mode with the vacuum wipers, or do they just stop where ever you turn the switch off? I never used the vacuum wiper setup on my truck. During my build I acquired a parts truck that had electric wipers. I swapped the electric setup into my truck.

Here are my original rims, being painted, and one that I kept from my parts truck that is now my spare. These are for a 3/4 ton with 5X5" pattern.

Right turn Clyde...

That's for those days when you're not sure whether you're coming or going... ?

I haven't found a way to pack longer arms under the seat... ?

The original door panels on my B2C had embossing. And when I sent them to Quiet Rides for patterns, so that they could make the proper B1-B2 door panels, the new ones they sent back to me had similar embossing.

I have my "spare" fuel pump stored with a couple of studs, made from threaded rod. If I ever need to install this unit in the field I can insert the studs, slip the pump over them, and tighten down the nuts. Once it's snug against the block I can always remove one nut and stud at a time and reinsert the proper bolts. That's my theoretical plan anyway. I haven't needed to put it to a test yet. This idea came to me as I was replacing the pump in a parking lot several years ago. I struggled to get the bolts started, especially the second bolt, as I had limited reach with both arms together. I eventually got it, but I kept thinking that if I had long enough bolts, or studs, it would have been much easier.

Do you have a volt meter to confirm that you have voltage at the IGN connection with the key on? You can also check that the wire to your horn button is truly grounding when pressed. These are a couple of the tests Plymouthy is referring to. VOM = Volt/Ohm Meter. (A.K.A. Multimeter)

I put around 1800 miles on mine in one week this past fall. I drove it from Wisconsin to Tennessee for a WPC Annual Meet. It was about 800 miles one way. We broke the trip up into a couple of days each way to minimize the stress on us, and the truck. I traveled mostly on the Interstate highways at around 70 MPH. I also have 3.73 gears.

I’d be killing the power to it until it can be investigated thouroughly, and repaired. Don’t need I starting the house on fire.

Head bolt heaters were an aftermarket thing. It's basically a heating element built into a replacement head bolt. Like any other engine heater/block heater, you'd plug it in and it heats up, warming up the coolant/engine.

Hey, I just saw that you are in Sacramento. You need to check out Tim's BBQ party in April, down in Lodi/Clements.

You'll need to find doors without vent windows and remove the glass and front track. The regulator is the same, as far as I can tell, but the bottom channel for the glass is different, and there is a channel/track at the front of the door to guide the window. Once you have those pieces you can remove your glass and cut out the tabs that support the vent window and front track/channel in your current doors. Then it's just a matter of swapping in the other track and windows.

It has a head bolt heater. Don't see them anymore. Also, that's an interesting looking coil, and it doesn't look like the coil wire is going into the center post of the cap.