Merle Coggins

Looks like a couple guys that are out standing in the field... or are they outstanding in their field?

That could go both ways. If it wasn't for a fumble the Packers may have had 28...

I think it left a stain on my door... Go Pack Go!!!

Matching the assembly line card?

Look closely to see if there are any signs that the spring perches were cut off and re-welded on the bottom.

So, at these guys have shown, that wire is for the horn. The “loose end” under the car should be coming out the end of the steering box and go to the horn relay to provide a ground to activate the relay. When you press down the horn button/ring you complete the ground for that wire, and the horn circuit.

Lid is not sealing. Better remove it and inspect the gasket to be sure it didn’t slip out of place.

No replacements available that I’m aware of. They’re pretty robust tempered glass. If you find a parts truck they’re likely in decent shape. I’ve got a spare set on the shelf from a parts truck I had, just in case... They need a bit of cleaning up, but they’re in good condition.

I have 3.73 gears in my truck and cruise easily at 65 MPH. I can push it up to 80 when needed, but I don't like to push like that if I don't have to.

I'd start by removing the critter carcasses, then spray down the cylinder walls with a good penetrating oil. On any valves that are open spray some of that same oil on the valve stems to help lubricate the valve stem/guide area. Get yourself a large socket and breaker bar to fit the crankshaft bolt and try to get it to rotate. Once it rotates, continue to lube the cylinder walls and valve stems. Check that all of the valves close fully. There is a tendency for valves to stick open when the guides and stems get a little rusty. Once you have everything moving freely, reinstall the head, get some gas flowing into the carburetor, and fire it up.

I agree. Don’t bother spacing out the rears. It won’t be noticeable.

License plates are too small for Mark... He collects tailgates. ?

Keith is right. However, before measuring the axle bearing end play you MUST have both axle shafts installed. The other end of the axle shaft presses against a thrust block in the center of the differential. If you try to measure one side without the other side assembled you will get a false measurement. You are actually measuring total clearance of both sides together.

You can't monopolize all of his time... ? Remember, he needs to take his California grass to Ed's house for Brent... ?

The B-series 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks used stepped bore wheel cylinders on the front and dual cylinders in the rear (similar to the fronts on the cars). I wonder if the T, and W-series trucks used the stepped bore cylinders on the front and rear. If this is indeed a '39 truck axle that may indeed be the answer. Maybe one of the earlier series truck guys can chime in on this... I don't believe anyone makes the step bore cylinders anymore, but places like Whitepost or Hagens(?) can sleeve them and revive them.

Good to see you back, Tony. I haven't seen you on the forum in quite a while.

You can use We Transfer to share larger files that are too large for email. I have used it many times with great success. It's a free service for files up to 2GB size. https://wetransfer.com/ Just upload your file, add an email address and message to the recipient, and send it. The recipient will get an email with a link to download the file. Or copy the link created and paste it into a personal email or PM.

My truck originally came from Iowa and it was titled with the Chassis Serial Number, although there was a typo in it. They had an S in place of a 5. It's still that way as Wisconsin wasn't interested in correcting it.

I do have a Dropbox account and have used that to transfer files to colleagues. I started with the free account but quickly exceeded my minimum storage space, so I upgraded to a paid account with much larger file space. I have also used We Transfer many times with great success. https://wetransfer.com/ This is a free service for files up to 2GB. Just enter the email address of the person you wish to send the file to, upload your file, add a message to the recipient, and click Transfer. The recipient will receive an email with a link to download the file. Easy Peasy... I believe you can also create your own link and send it in a personal email, or copy it to a forum post, if you wish to do it that way.

The links worked for me on my phone...

Or in this instance, for Paul's picture... An Interesting photo opportunity I have run across...

I completely agree when it comes to vintage equipment, and documentation. However, in the modern day the electronic formats can be updated whenever a change is made in machine design, or when errors are discovered in the service, or parts, information. Our information is updated weekly so we always have the latest and greatest information. That’s not possible with printed formats.

In my daily job all of our parts and service manuals are in a digital format, albeit in a much easier to navigate/search format than PDF scans. I have become quite used to using the computer to research service information. Then when I find the section I need I'll print it out to have on hand in the shop. When they get greasy or oily, or blow away in the wind, I just go print out another set. We still have printed manuals for many of our machine models, but most just collect dust on the shelf now. Pretty much all of our Tech's use the computer version now.

I found an original B2 series Shop Manual many years ago, when I was building my truck. It has served me very well over the years. However, before I found that (on ebay if I remember correctly) I purchased CD versions of the Shop Manual and Parts Catalog. I found the scan quality isn't the best, which kept the file sizes manageable but makes for poor quality pictures. None the less I have saved those files to my computer for reference when I'm at the desk and don't have access to my printed book. I also have them saved in my Dropbox so that I can access them with my iPad too. I have also found a couple of cases of missing pages in the parts catalog CD version. Possibly the pages were missing from the book they scanned, or they stuck together going through the page feeder of their scanner.

I agree with the clutch slippage theory, but it also sounds like you have a failed seal in your FD unit. Once you get oil on the clutch disc it will slip, and won't necessarily smell. When I built my truck I got solvent on my clutch disc when cleaning everything. I brake cleaned it and hoped for the best. All was good for 2 or 3 years, then I would notice slippage in 4th gear when under a load. The slippage continued to get worse throughout the summer. That winter I pulled the clutch and FD unit. I had my clutch, and clutch disc, rebuilt by Fort Wayne Clutch. I also pulled the driven plate from the FD unit and had it surfaced by a local shop. (the same shop I took the clutch to, and they sent it out to Fort Wayne Clutch for rebuild). After reassembly it's been slip free to this day...