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Old CWO last won the day on December 2 2018

Old CWO had the most liked content!

About Old CWO

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Northern Nevada
  • My Project Cars
    1952 B3B


  • Location
  • Interests
    Guns, Trucks and Curvy Women

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484 profile views
  1. Sounds like my kind of place. Well, except I'm sorta picky about coffee... I don't know what it is, but all the cool "guy" places to hang out seem to be going extinct: traditional auto parts stores, real barber shops, neighborhood bait & tackle, electronics supply stores, hobby shops, etc. I guess we just order it all on the internet cheaper so there's no reason to go in and chew the fat with the local guy anymore.
  2. I worked the counter at a couple of traditional parts stores (with machine shops) when I was a kid. Honestly those jobs had more long term value for me from a technical perspective than any other place I've worked. I learned so much I still use today: pipe and hose sizes and fitting types, how to properly measure bearings and seals with a caliper, parts interchangeability, making custom crimped hydraulic hoses, basic machine shop tasks, fastener sizes and thread pitch by sight, clutch up-sizing, etc. etc. This was just before the lookup computers became common place so I learned to be a catalog commando. Love em. Way more information in the old school catalogs than digital lookup by make and model only. (psst. Look in the back...that's where the good info usually is!)
  3. Well, if I were looking to go automatic this is the path I would pursue: Wilcap flattie to GM adapter GM TH200-4R. It's essentially the same size as a TH350, has good ratios (2.74 1st, .67 OD), and can certainly handle the power range required. You would have to figure out the TV cable, but I don't think that's an insurmountable task. Lots and lots of aftermarket support for that transmission and reasonably easy to find. Deep rear end gears. Like 4.56 or 4.88 depending on tire size.
  4. The Pertronix for 6V positive ground has been fine for me as well. Simple to install and dead reliable so far. After installation I just ran the timing up to max vacuum at idle, backed off a little and locked it down. Starts and runs really smooth. It's not a deal breaker or anything but I do like that it retains a stock appearance as opposed to using a different distributor. In the "old days" I wouldn't be too worried about just keeping the points ignition for a low RPM flattie but it sure seems like any of them you buy now are substandard quality.
  5. Capitol Clutch and Brake in Sacramento can rebuild your pressure plate. They are reputable and prices are not unreasonable. I sent them mine recently for a rebuild and while talking with them we discussed the spring situation. They told me that the standard truck PP has half as many springs as one intended for a forklift. The information was that they could sell a new forklift PP that would fit or simply add the springs into a rebuilt unit if required. He did think it would be pretty stout with all the springs installed. Mine was returned to stock so I can't speak to that but I trust this shop to know what they are talking about. I have to assume there is a similar shop somewhere in the LA basin but I don't have any first hand experience with one.
  6. Well stated. I would add that tire diameter is also an important variable to consider in the mix. As a general rule, the taller the tire the deeper the gearing needed. I have also found that lower power engines (like four bangers or flatheads) seem to have better pep when leaning a little lower rather than a little higher with final drive ratios. If the math comes out for a rear end ratio that is in between what's available, choose the lower (higher numerically) option. I believe if you've got an OD trans don't be afraid to go deep in the rear end. Many people are surprised by how low they can go and keep reasonable highway cruising RPM.
  7. Oh, my mistake. Looked like a 280Z from the angle in the photo. Either way, interesting mashup.
  8. Slant Six in Datsun Z car? Well played sir.
  9. Had a Chevy truck once that previous owner installed an Olds 403. Torquey engine but didn't like to rev; spun mine a little too hard and the bottom half let loose. Years ago I met a guy who dumped an Olds Toronado 455 with transaxle in the back of a Datsun truck. He had no joke a full bucket of rusty nails and random hardware bolted to the front crossmember where the four banger used to live. He claimed it needed the weight up front for steering. It had a tonneau cover hiding the engine and was apparently quite the street sleeper. How about an early Bronco with EFI 4.9L straight six? It looked like the guy notched the firewall darn near a foot to fit that monster in there. Was sort of cool in a dare to be different kind of way.
  10. It's funny you post this, my answer is also Lineman's Pliers. Sometime around 1988 or so I found a nice pair of red handled Japanese made lineman's pliers sitting on the side of the road at the intersection of Jackson Highway and Ione Road in California. Back then that was considered "out in the sticks" so finding them laying there all by themselves in good shape seemed odd. The pliers are still in my toolbox and get used regularly; the cutters are just now starting to get dull.
  11. Thankyou. 

    1. Old CWO

      Old CWO

      You are most welcome sir.

  12. Langdon's Stovebolt web site has what you are looking for.
  13. I am very happy with a Cherokee rear axle, manual front disc conversion and properly functioning stock steering. Handles, stops, steers just fine and retains that vintage truck feel. Those are cheap, easy and well documented upgrades for the B series trucks that really make a huge difference. The flattie... I love the flattie for how I use my truck as a weekend cruiser/enthusiast toy/Home Depot hauler. Nothing says cool like a straight six flathead under the hood, especially those that are dolled up with dual carbs and such. I would be hard pressed to get rid of mine. I do however find she's under powered when there's any kind of weekday traffic. I am sure one of our Canadian friends is going to chime in shortly and say that a souped up big inch flathead is plenty of power. I will respectfully agree to disagree. My opinion based on my experience is that something the size, weight and shape of our trucks needs at least 200 HP and 275 TQ or so to be a confident daily driver in city traffic. That's not a tall order and there are many ways to get there reliably. I would also posit that any upgrade effort should also include some type of fuel injection and overdrive transmission. I believe those technological improvements are a big reason why modern vehicles are more pleasant to drive. So for the sake of bench racing (and spending other people's money!) here's a recipe: XJ Chrysler 8.25 rear axle with drum brakes and 3.55 gears Disc brake front kit and XJ master cylinder 12v conversion go through the stock steering and suspension, fix everything to like new Radial tires Good running stock or mildly built DODGE 318/360 topped with Holley Sniper EFI Vintage Air NV3550 5 speed from Dakota or NV4500 from Ram 2500 if you're ever going to tow or put big power through it (real trucks have 3 pedals - say no to the auto) Can't live without power brakes? Switch to hanging pedals and put booster/master on the firewall. Also probably facilitates the trans swap and exhaust clearance Can't live without power steering? Axle mounted rack and pinion or one of those whiz-bang universal electra-steer units Would be like driving a Dakota except the chicks will dig it and you didn't have to turn your Dodge truck in a Chevy car..😉
  14. I bet this topic ends up getting a lot of discussion! Air conditioning? Vintage Air. S10 chassis: I don't see why you couldn't or wouldn't keep the GM drive train intact once you accept the notion of a non-Mopar power plant. I would only entertain the 4.3 V6 engine. The other original engines aren't even worth considering for this application. SBC does swap into S10s relatively easy so there's that possibility. You will still have to sort through the hanging pedal conversion, steering column integration, radiator, firewall clearance, 12V upgrades, shifter or clutch linkage, etc., etc. I personally wouldn't take the project on without an entire functional S10 to cannibalize; finding and buying all the needed fiddly bits runs up the T&M real quick. Is the S10 swap less work than doing some targeted modern upgrades to the original chassis? I think not necessarily but those going through it right now can perhaps chime in with first hand experience. One thing for sure, any S10 you source is still a decades old truck and will require some refurbishment just like the original Dodge parts. There's no free lunch there. Also you're basically putting the equivalent of an 80s mid size GM car under your truck. Whether that is a net negative or benefit is up for debate. It is for sure more fun to drive a vintage truck to work than some boring hybrid hippy car or generic SUV. Good Luck! Oh, and KEEP YOUR MOPAR MOPAR!😁
  15. Plenty of Jeep rear axles will work but best option in my opinion is the 29 spline 97-01 XJ Cherokee Chrysler 8.25. It's common, strong and already set up for leaf springs so no link suspension brackets to cut/grind. Those are drum brake axles but can be converted to disc if you are so inclined. It makes for a clean and easy swap - there's one under my truck and I like it. I think a cool (but bigger pain in the neck) option would be a Ford 9". I am thinking a large Ford passenger car like those giant early 70s Mustangs or maybe a Torino is about the right size to start with and has the small five lug pattern. I know the 9" rear from a 67-72 F100 is the right width for early Mopars and has 11" brakes but that is factory with the 5x5.5 pattern so would have to be dealt with.
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