Merle Coggins
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Everything posted by Merle Coggins
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Yes, close enough. Especially since my truck runs just fine with it. LOL… it’s actually nice here today. Low to mid 80’s with a nice breeze.
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I just performed the test on my truck. I got 4 oz. After 15 pump pulses. It would be a little low based on Ed’s spec., but it’ll hold 4.5 psi on a pressure test. So I’ll use this as a guideline too.
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Yes, that oil pressure is too high. It's possible that your oil pressure regulator spool is stuck closed. If you want to verify with another gauge look at the left side of your engine, where the current gauge connects, and you'll see a raised ridge that runs the length of the block. This is the main oil galley and it will have 4 ports (1/8" NPT) along the length. One is where your dash gauge connects. Any of the other 3 can be used with a manual gauge to verify the pressure.
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Thanks guys. This gives me a target to shoot for. As Robert said, this is not stated in the truck shop manual. It only references the pressure. And, in the test procedure it states 3-1/2 - 5-1/2 psi, but if you look in the Specs pages it shows 4-5 psi. (Gotta love inconsistency in service literature 🤔) It’s good that the Plymouth manuals state it. I might do a test on my truck one evening this week for comparison/baseline.
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Hello. I’ll be helping a friend to diagnose a potential fuel pump issue this coming weekend. I have what I need to check the fuel pressure, and I have that spec (4-5 psi). However, I can’t find a spec for the pump volume. I’m aware of volume tests where you disconnect the line going to the carb and direct the flow into a container, then crank the engine for a certain amount of time and measure the volume. Does anyone know that spec for our trucks?
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Anytime I’ve experienced backfiring out of the carb after distributor work, I found that the distributor was installed 180 degrees off. Double check #1 TDC on the Compression stroke. Then recheck your plug wire placement. Also, extremely retarded timing could be firing the spark plugs on the intake stroke, causing backfire in the carb. Either way, double check the timing.
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Your stick may not be holding enough brake pressure to activate the switch. Get a helper to step on the brake pedal while you test it, or rig up your test light so that you can see it while stepping on the brake pedal.
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If you connect the 2 wires together at the brake light switch will the brake lights come on? Have you done a continuity check of the brake pressure switch with pressure applied?
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If you have power to the brake light switch, but nothing coming out when you depress the brake pedal, then you likely have a bad brake light switch. I used to go through them every few months when I’d get them from Napa. The contacts would build up a corrosion layer that would block current flow. I finally bought a Standard brand from Rock Auto and it’s been working fine for many years.
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🤣🤣 I’ve done that too. “ Cant fnd someting I know I have… Finally give up and buy a new one… Come up with the “Perfect” place to store the new one so I can find it again and find the original in that exact spot. Glad to know it’s not just me…😎
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I've made a few 'custom' wrenches for special needs over the years. Some are still floating around in my tool boxes somewhere.
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You probably could, as long at the length was correct. However, it wouldn't help the wrench access issue.
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Half moon wrenched help in that situation.
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The people at Then and Now Automotive are pretty good at identifying the pumps and telling you which kit you’ll need to rebuild them. If you can sent them photos, or any identifying marks they’ll know what you need.
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Isn't Red Green still on? Haven't watched it in several years.
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I rebuilt a 383, from the family '70 Dodge Polara, in High School shop class. As far as we knew this engine had never been apart so we were surprised to find the rod journals 0.010" undersize. We then discovered a stamping in one of the counterweights "R010". We speculated that it was ground 0.010" under from the factory.
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Double check the points. In particular the spring. If the spring doesn’t get locked in correctly the tension will be low and will lead to points bounce at higher RPM. I know this from experience. Idle was smooth and timing right on, but when driving it would start bucking and loosing power badly as I sped up. I was able to confirm with a timing light. When I’d rev up the engine the timing would get wildly erratic and retarded. I checked and found the points spring not locked in correctly. The copper strap was the only thing acting as a spring. Once I corrected that it ran perfectly. -
A little temperature increase when you stop is normal. At idle there is less coolant circulating and less air flow because the fan is spinning slower. This causes a bit of heat soak and your temp gauge will go up some. It should stabilize and go down again once you have more RPM and air flow.
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Good to know that Joe got his RV unstuck. It was a bit of an ordeal getting a wrecker out there to pull him out.
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It's also good to change out the air in your tires from winter air to summer air.
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I didn’t think it was too difficult when I did my Rusty Hope upgrade. If you have access to a good drill press you can drill and tap the spindles without much issue. If not you’ll have to rely on a shop to do that. I think the spindle nuts gave me the most grief, but I made it work.
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I was out in the garage yesterday, shuffling things around and wrapping up a couple of smaller projects and I decided it was a good time to fire up the truck and let it run a bit. I switched on my priming pump for a bit, then gave it a crank. Fired right up and settled into a nice idle. To many other vehicles in the way to get it out for a drive, but it was tempting.
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Wasn’t a D25 an import version of the Plymouth P15 in Dodge trim? If so it’s likely the 25” version of the 230 CID engine. It may have come out of a Fargo, but it would have originally been in a Dodge car.
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Installing inner front fenders.
Merle Coggins replied to Los_Control's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
That video is me. I didn’t have a YouTube channel at the time, so Tim posted it on his and shared it on the forum. Yes, the inner fenders come out, and in, through the top. It’s a tight fit, and you will need to wiggle it around to find the right angles. Be careful though. I ended up scratching the paint on the firewall a little bit. -
Good one Brent… Flights and hotels are booked. See y’all there…
