Merle Coggins

If he were to rotate the distributor housing 180 degrees the oil cup would be at the bottom and he wouldn't get oil to flow uphill to where it needs to go. The oil cup should be near the top. On mine the oil cup is are around the 2 O'clock position. So if anything I'd suggest that the distributor be rotated clockwise a bit. May need to move the plug wires 1 position anti-clockwise in the process.

How much room do you have to swing a hammer? Those clips can usually be removed by hooking a punch/chisel/screwdriver onto the turned up lip at the bottom of the "U" and give it a smack with a hammer.

So, there you go... 218's were fitted with Fluid Drive units back in '41. We learn something new every day. Thanks Tim.

I did a fall color ride several years ago. Should make time for one every year, but it just doesn’t seem to happen.

It appears that you changed from a Carter B&B to a Stomburg. You need to find a proper air filter for the Stromburg.

You need to be sure that all of the shift forks are correctly engaged with the sliding gears. It sounds like you may have at least one misaligned.

1/2 and 3/4 ton B-series trucks came with the 218 CID 23” engines, and starting in 1950 were also available with the Fluid Drive option. The 1 ton trucks have the 230 CID engine and also had a FD option starting in ‘50. As I understand the car world, only the Plymouths use the 218 engine, and Fluid Drive was never an option for Plymouths. Any 23” 218 or 230 engine would be a direct replacement for the truck in question, but he’d need a 218 that was originally from a truck equipped with FD. I am also curious why the engine is “beyond repair”. If it’s just a blown head gasket the head can be shaved to make it flat, block checked for flatness, and reassembled with a new gasket.

Doesn’t look like you have much head room… Cool find.

A spring around the new cable??? As in abrasion protection? I don't recall any springs. There should be a p-clamp to attach the cable housing to the firewall just above where it comes through the floor.

Looks like you just broke the crank bolt. It probably couldn’t handle the torque you were applying to try to get the engine to rotate. You may need to get underneath and work the flywheel ring gear with a pry bar. You’ll have more force to try to rotate the crank.

The purpose of the brass nuts is so that they don't rust and bond themselves to the studs. This aids in their removal in the future. As Mark said, just get them all good and snug. Then come back after a few heat cycles and recheck them all. As for the bolts that hold the two pieces together, I would just use normal grade 5 bolts. Anti-seize could be used but I don't have much faith in it's efficacy over time, given the hot environment. When you are installing the manifolds leave these 4 bolts a little loose so that the manifolds can align themselves to the block. Once they are tightened to the block come back and tighten these 4 bolts.

You assumed wrong… When 2 of the pistons are at TDC 2 others are on their way towards the bottom and 2 others are on their way up. They are 120 degrees apart.

I took my clutch and disc to a local clutch shop. I believe they sent it out to Fort Wayne Clutch to have it rebuilt.

As I saw this thread again I was thinking it may be a bad belt. Then I read your post. Good find. Easy fix.

Are you sure you don’t have a bad spring, or binding track? Can you temporarily disconnect the door opener to check the movement of the door? You should be able to lift it with little effort if everything is working properly.

You could also have a plugged relief/vent port in your master cylinder. When things heat up it may be building up pressure within the master cylinder if the piston chamber isn't able to vent back into the reservoir. This may account for your loss of free play. You may also have your brake pedal adjustment too tight which is not allowing the piston to return fully to uncover the vent port. This would give a similar symptom.

@Worden18 How's the brake job on this guy coming along? It seems that the American, Meadowbrook, and B2C are getting all the love lately.

My oil fill pipe offsets to the rear, and there is a clamp near the top that attaches at the coil bracket mount bolt.

I think the originals are hex head.

1/8” NPT pipe plug

The rating is likely based on the basin size, not the fluid capacity.

Driveshaft angle isn't the important one. You need to match the pinion shaft angle to the transmission tail shaft angle. The best way to do that is to measure the u-joint flange angles with the driveshaft removed. A magnetic angle finder tool is your friend here.

I would separate them. The clutch will come off quite easy as you can spin it to access all of the bolts.

I did mine the hard way. I laid the engine on it’s side, removed the oil pan, rod caps, and main caps. I then removed the crankshaft with FD attached. Once it was all out I then separated the FD from the crankshaft.

This morning I saw a post on the Pilot-House FB group. There’s a gentleman trying to unload a 1 ton chassis in Reno, NV. Might have a viable differential for you… https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/374000674060289/