Dodgeb4ya

All 1946-1950 MoPar flatheads ...Plymouth, Dodge, DeSoto and Chrysler.... both six and eight cylinder engines all use the same reach spark plug. The correct plug number back then for all 1946-1950 Chrysler's was an AR8. I use Autolite's on all my MoPar flatheads.. 295's and 306's or Champion J11C's..all 1/2"....to tip of electrode But of course others use their own preferred plugs.

Super great job!?

The same "Horseshoe" clip as used to retain the brake shoes is used on all 1946-54 MoPar car master cylinders. Push them on in the groove and squeeze the ears tight. An "E" clip could be used too...just not original style retainer.

Don't mess with that plug. That top plug is for main oil control valve access. No need to do anything with that. The oil level/fill plug is on the passenger side of the trans 1/2 way up. Use 10 weight oil. Shown is both the Transmission and Fluid drive Coupling fill locations.

Absolutely a wonderful restoration job. What a sucessful way to finish off 2020 too..... And a great start for 2021?

If you use a air chisel you can carefully chisel the manifold off the two long studs. Hopefully the studs will survive...otherwise drilling out those studs will be next.

Boy does that look familiar..the last resort? Ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

It is the straight eight. This removable cartridge OP relief valve design started in the very early Chrysler production cars...and is also found in the big Moly Block DT engines too. Up thru 1948 on the cars a cast iron dome is used to cover the adjustable relief valve. On the trucks and 1949-50 Chryslers a big hex nut covers the valve...shown is the Moly block regulator...

I've sold all my round black anti-stall solenoids... have only one left...they break easily. Be careful with it! Also those BXVES-3 Stromberg carbs seem to have loose throttle linkage side lever to throttle shafts... A lot of times people will try to solder the two together to prevent looseness between the side lever and shaft to prevent erractic idle speeds. You might want to look at that too.. good luck with the engine.

At least Chrysler relief valves are easy to service being a cartridge style valve...and easily adjustable too.

1946-48 chryslers have that same windshield welting. It's stapled to the moulding.

1951-52 Coronets have the M6 transmissions that's why the electrical accessories and semi hard to find Stromberg carb with the round antistall solenoid on the side. Probably damaged though?

Leave the fresh air package...just remove the heaters. They will come out separate. Pulling the fresh air center housing and all the linkage is complicated. Tons of parts.

I just use the larger size valve stems in the oval hole rims. Has always worked for me. There cannot be any rust pitting. Also steel stems work too.

Very cool?

Those two studs are the worst manifold removal problem IMO on the old flatheads. Keep on doing what ever you have too. I had a 1942 DeSoto heat riser job....had to air chisel the exhaust manifold into pieces and get another one to finish the job. Those long rusty studs suck big time. ..

With 85-140 you got it covered... Good for the North Pole❄ Good for the Mojave Desert? Also dandy oil for a slightly worn gear set...You did fine.

Used to work on a lot of HH series Tecumseh's....company now gone.

Some of the small outdoor equipment engines use a camshaft compression release mechanism to hold a valve slightly open for easy starting. Many require the piston to be at 1/4" past top dead center to properly check valve lash. Just more info on small engines...of course does not apply to the MoPar flathead engines..??

Dave is a great guy!

If you lived in the Seattle area I could fix you right up with a NOS 1941 Chrysler trunk lid....same except for license stop lamp holes.

I don't think I have much to worry about. The car is on a 14,000lb four post lift. The rear of the car is raised off the runways using a 7000lb rolling jack on the safety lock. The bottle jack is only used to prevent the axle from "bouncing" while pounding on the hub puller dog bone. On any lift with the rear axle just hanging by the leaf springs you lose way too much hammer impact to the hub puller. You'll never get the drum off easy with the axle and drum bouncing while pounding on the dog bone style drum puller. This is the reason I always lightly support the axle with the bottle jack by the backing plate. The bottle jack is not used for safety at all.

To be sure of no leakage of brake fluid on the new brake linings ...yes have the cylinders sleeved unless you can find new. Usually all old cylinders will have a ring of tiny deep pits mainly at the bottom of the wheel cylinder right where the piston cup lip sits. Moisture in the brake fluid sits in low areas like mentioned and eats into the cylinder bore. You can try to hone the pits out. They are deeper than you think. A year later you most likely will find leakage coming from the still pitted wheel and or master cylinders. Sleeving cylinders is costly but so are new linings and all the time re-doing the brakes a second time. You might get lucky honing but that's only on nearly pit free used cylinders.

Most likely will need all sleeved cylinders so as not to leak.

Bad mileage and you don't care is driving one of these... 30" Nickel Moly block DT engines...comes only with a 25 gallon or larger fuel tank. 5-10 MPG...