Dodgeb4ya

Washington used the engine number at least thru the middle 50's.

Sometimes a very hard part to find OE. Just use an internal snap ring using 90 degree snap ring pliers.

Looks like this....sometimes I've seen just the ring portion in the groove of the torque shaft. I think because the "ears" of the clip are broken off.

A retaining spring clip fits in a groove of the torque shaft on the frame side of said shaft.

Old jeeps, AMC cars..really old AMC Ramblers and a host of other cars and trucks had tapered axles. Brake shops and regular repair shops had these drums off quickly...no fooling around...good tooling ...knowledgeable mechanic. Get'er done....the customer needs their car next day. Diy'er newbies might take a week or more for some to get two drums off. Just the way it goes first time. I started on these type drums and axles when I was sixteen. Never waited for them to pop. I got them off just like the old guy up the street did them. He had a pretty good sized hammer and seemed like a strong old man. He taught me and now I'm just like him? I've removed hundreds of tapered axle style drums from the small Plymouth's to the big V12 Packards. All good exercise too.

I started having rotating pic issues about two months ago. Using the cell phone pictures and also using pics stored on my win 10 desktop. Never ever had an issue. Anyway I would edit/ rotate ..do a small resize and save it. Come here to post the pic...it would end up sideways, upside down...crazy!!!! Read on this issue endlessly. Exif data on and on. Finally out of frustration I post pic....delete it... re-post it and then magically it posts properly. These can be pictures I have posted on this site with no problems before. Anyway I will try to get the picture right two try's after that it will be posted any orientation that happens. Frustrated to the point where I don't care anymore.?

Don't be cheap on an auto darkening helmet...that's your eyes it's protecting.... I looked, talked a lot to welder supply houses and the guys at the welding shop before I bought one. I've had my helmet now for over 15 years and no issues at all. It cost me $450.00. Oh yeah $$$$... but to me it was worth it. As for welding inside....nope.. I do it all outside...sparks run 20+ feet. Don't want a fire. Read too many stories on welding sparked fires in the garage.

Hylomar....re-useable, expensive, for close fit applications like machined case halves etc. I've sealed leaks on valve covers no one else could. Goes on super thin...great sealant. Ultra grey like Honda bond another wonderful gasket "maker"...on and on just like which oil should I use... But dry gaskets don't leak either in the right applications. You pick....better not leak!

Are ya sure you are not trying to get rich? That's your name !?

RTV probably has destroyed thousands of engines over the years from improper usage. But...now days that's how many engines, transmissions and rear axles are sealed up from the factory. If you use it do it right and sparingly. Ya don't want the oil pick up half plugged up.? Sealers can also cause gaskets of some types to "squirt" out of position and fail.

Those orange box old Carter kits are the real deal to use. There are two versions.. A very very complete kit and then the standard quick rebuild kit with the needed parts kit for a typical rebuild. The Kits sold today consist of pretty much a couple styles of needle and seats, accelerator pump, couple small balls and a pile of gaskets for four different Carter BB carbs. Some new kits might include a new mixture screw too.

I like it...

Wish the video wasn't private.?

A sample out of a 2005 RI harness catalog P15...early/ late changes in harness options depending on serial#.

Be careful to note where the horn relay is located.. Early or late model p15's have the horn relay mounted in different places...in front of the radiator drivers side and or drivers side inner fender panel...requires a different harness. I don't remember if RI lists more than one production model change...call them and ask questions before ordering. Do you still have your old harness to compare old to new? Anyway RI instructions are good and clear...and the factory wiring diagram is a must too.

RI is a great choice...I have installed several in 1946-52 MoPars. Better than Y&Z....weak connector and labeling issues.

If using a large heavy hammer and just a jack stand you are losing a lot of impact shock through the jack stand..... If you feel the need for heat in this instance.. It needs to be hot and fast...oxy acetylene to quickly expand just the axle I beam area and not let that heat soak to the pin and expand it too. 10 minutes with mapp is heating both....won't work very well. Personally I don't like heating a critical part on steering or suspension. A good press or king pin removal tool is needed on some tough pins. A snap-on king pin tool shown. I realize most don't have these tools but some can be rented or have a shop do it. JMO.?

And some more continuing good education on needle and seats... https://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Fuel_valves.htm

I have never used the Daytona valves. They are nothing new and whether made of aluminum or brass thousands have been made and sold over the last 50 years or more. .

Ya know if I had purchased something I didn't quite understand what or how it worked I would call the seller or manufacturer or search online. I want the right facts.. That funny looking needle valve has been around for years. It originally was called a "Parker" float valve. A good one at that. Call up Daytona and ask/learn about it. Bernbaum wouldn't have a clue. I have used Daytona for really old carb parts and very happy with their service. Here is some Daytona needle info... https://www.daytonaparts.com/m/float.html

The C40 Crown Imperial M5 transmission certainly should be the same as your six cylinder C38 M5 trans although the rear emergency brake drum U-joint yoke will be bigger than the smaller C38 six cylinder yoke as on your trans. Just swap the rear brake drum and band assembly from yours if needed. The trans bolt patterns are all the same...all six and eight. The M6 trans is 1949 thru 1953 all Dodge, DeSoto and Chrysler cars. Will not fit the 1946-48 cars.

I use both these "C" clamp style valve spring tools on MoPar flat heads besides the small spreader/lift type. Also shown are the two styles of keeper tools...a KD magnetic type and the ar rt Sunnen clip loaded type.

A little tight but has always got the job done. I also use the big "C" clamp style compressor too. Also I always use a pencil magnet next to the keepers when removing so as they don't pop off and go flying. I have a Sunnen keeper install tool to install those keepers too.

This KD style spring compressor usually always works on all the MoPar flatheads.

Don't forget about the floor shifter... Floor panel has to be removed to be able to pull the trans back the 10" or so...then drop it down. 3 speed I assume.