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bigdaisy19k

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  • Posts

    33
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Tacoma, WA
  • My Project Cars
    Edna, 1952 Windsor deluxe, all original runner<br />
    Harry 1952 Windsor (great grandfathers car), in waiting for more space.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Too busy for hobbies
  • Occupation
    MX engine support

Converted

  • Location
    Tacoma, WA
  • Interests
    I come here because of my hobbies. HAHA

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  1. The spitfire in the Windsor is already fluid torque.. But you are right about missing parts. I have a hopeful line on a spare 331 that may have them.
  2. Speaking of news, found water trapped in a couple of cylinders. But it wasn't too rusty red. Removed water, added penitrant and will need to pull heads. Fingers crossed.
  3. If only for my semi auto trans this would be great info.
  4. I'll have to print this out, helpful stuff. Thanks
  5. Hopefully the larger engine bay helps. I was going to try and make a bit more power, but we'll cross that bridge when we get there.
  6. That's relief, I was worried about steering box interference or a much too weak rear end. But those things are manageable too.
  7. Basically if it says stop leak on it no matter who makes it and what it's for, avoid it.
  8. It's amazing what a good polymer can do. Also, there's a whole testing service built around oil, SN was the last rating I remember, but as long as it's the highest S* rating it's good for anything built before that rating. Mostly just don't let the oil oxidize past 90 days or so, once the additive package is used up change it. No matter if it sat over time or ran the mileage. Now using C-* oils rated for diesel engines is ok, but the additive package is deferent as CGI metals and high load cam facings require their own grading. Modern engines run variable displacement on oil pumps to control oil flow for fuel economy. It really is a rabbit hole as previously noted by other posters. Bottom line on sealing the valve stems, if you changing the guide material anyway, it might be fine. But it's also your engine to do as you like, so we don't much matter when it comes to that end of it.
  9. Picked up a 53 331 long bellhousing hemi this weekend. Thing is how crazy am I to try and put this into my 52 six cylinder windsor with it's fluid torque drive? I mean it's going in no matter what, but if there's some notes on differences between V8 and 6 cylinder cars I'll need to note, (like heavier front springs), I'd appreciate the advise/opinions. For 500 bucks it was listed as refreshed, but I still need to start a little teardown to know for sure.
  10. Making progress on the 52, carb rebuild and new battery cut off switch make everything so much better. Still need to finish making the brake lights work. But not bad for original unrestored. Unfortunately for me she needs to go. Too many projects lol.
  11. I'd go with sheets, we used them to cover all kinds of nice horse drawn wagons, grandpa would collect. Much to Grandma's ire I suppose.
  12. I feel you Greg, the whole process would have been a lot cheaper if these filters didn't cost so much, lol. But it's a good cautionary tail, be careful with additives, even seafoam in the oil will clean a lot of crud out in a hurry and put it all in the pan/filter. You only need a plugged pick-up tube for a few moments to lunch the bearings.
  13. Both full flow. What's up? Don't use detergent oil on a bypass filter set up?
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