Dodgeb4ya

You've got it now!!

As stated in the above article DOT 4 has a higher boiling point (30-50 degrees) than dot 3. Really should use it over DOT 3.

Just make sure the cam and crank gear dots line up with a straight edge (across the centerlines of both the cam and crankshaft when properly assembled. You don't really need to care that when the dots are lined up the #1 cylinder cam lobes are up and not at TDC. Most engines have this same design. Number 6 cylinder is on the TDC compression stroke (cam lobes pointing down) with the cam dots lined up-this is normal and correct. Rotate the crankshaft one full rotation (360) degrees to set the engine up to # 1 cylinder to get it to TDC if you want it there for distributor installation and start up. BTW Crankshaft rotates 2 times for every one revolution of the camshaft. Bob

Yes it was a extremely rare option and is listed in the Dodge truck parts book. Looks the same as a 1953 dodge car hood ornament but has larger rams. Bob

The MoPar interchange book supercedes to 1346572. 1950 Plym and 1949-50 Dodge. Bob

The core offset --the forward/rearward location of the radiator core in the mounting straps and or location in the core support. Some sloppy slang used in the auto repair trade. I forgot to mention the 51-2 upper outlet points staight out and to ther rear as the 49-50 upper tank outlet angles down and to the rear. Bob

1949 to 50 tanks are big and wide, 1951-2 tanks are narrow and more modern looking tanks. Cores are a different offset too. They won't interchange! Bob

He's the best in my book!

I didn't think P23's had the high rise intake. What is the part# of the intake manifold? 1951 and later started out with a 1300... part #. 1950 and back used vacumn wipers which required that vacumn port for the wipers. 1951 and later cars all had electric wipers.Trucks did use that type of manifold with the vacumn port. Bob

It should slide all the way back. Looks like the bearing is on the sleeve backwards! Bob

Here are some pictures of the rear pickup fender bolts. Bob

I would try to avoid most all all long steep grades. It will be hard on that little flathead! People behind you might not have much patience.

Excellent design/welding and finish work! Bob

I use a set of these "Pink" - only color available-5000 lb. Gojaks. Sometimes they roll too easily though.

I put a 6" Midland on my 1 ton. Otherwise brakes are stock and work really nice. Easy pedal too and high. Bob

Looks like a china-ese replacement product-gotta love that!

Does that clutch pedal really weigh 40 lbs?

Here's a picture of a factory B-3 and 4 series rear view mirror. Would be the same for B1 and 2 trucks I would think. Bob

You need to check how worn out the pivot holes in the clutch linkage rods/ pivot pins ect. are. these being overly loose can cause your difficult adjustment situation. All linkage should be fairly tight at all pivots. Bob

I agree 100% ! Never had a problem doin them this way. It's easy too.

With the engine shut off and the clutch pedeal depressed can you shift it into any of the gears-if if you can your clutch disc is stuck to the cluch cover/flywheel. To attempt to break the disc loose, put the e-brake on apply the brake pedal firmly, put it in 3rd and with the clutch pedal depressed try to crank the engine over. Hopefully the disc will break loose. Bob

That shifter handle looks custom shaped at the top end-never seen a dodge shifter like that. Bob

A pic of the rollers.

Wheels are wrong!

Never have had or heard of a crankshft problem with any of the straight 8 cars. Exhaust manifolds are the problem for the 8's and thats only when they do break- then it's hard to find a good one. I've had some of my "8" cylinder cars for well over 30 years and love em! Bob