Dodgeb4ya

Size the O-ring to fot the 5/16"X18 bolt tread and to fit the counter bore recess in the retainer and some sealant and you are good to go. Bob

How does he do that Don?

Now thats a "BIG butt" Dodge! Nice work.

I think it's the camera shot or lens when they shot it or most likely the YouTube upload changed the quality.

Here is the full size one with the optional Dalmation accessory as shown in some T&C brochures. Bob

Saw this good rust free Eastern Washington dodge PU for sale at the Portland swap meet yesterday for $1650. Has the fresh air package/rear bumper and guards too! Here are some pics with the phone # . Looks like a nice one to restore. Bed wood is rotted and glass is fogged- typical from the east side of the state heat. Might still be available. Bob

It's a T&C for sure-though a bit smaller than usual.

The screw gommets are small rubber O-Rings on each of the 3 retainer bolts. They seal up the counter bored screw holes in the bearing retainer. Bob

Ed, If that 8 cyl. NewYorker has a good exhaust manifold-and I stress good you will be closer to retirement if you can get it off in one piece and market it to the big buck T&C guys. These manifolds cannot be permanently repaired(welded) and they are a delicate manifold and crack in the hidden collector part of the manifold. They are a 3 piece setup and don't easily come apart and should not be taken apart either. They are hard to remove though! Got to pull it to see if it's any good. 1946-1950 are the $$$$ years! Bob

Some COE info for you Gene!

Chryslers use this type of joint With bolt through ears. Detroit style. They are tough to find. Six and eight cylinder joints look the same but the eight cylinder joints are wider/bigger.

Never have had the need for fuses in my 52 PU which I have owned for the last 37 years! It's simple and it works for me. I like the cloth wiring too as long as it's in good shape. Bob

Sounds like the correct way to me! Just pull the drive shaft yoke and remove the drum. Here is some pics of a dodge truck 5 speed-procedure is all the same. Just check the brake drum hub seal wear area for a worn groove-if there is wear a speedi-sleeve should be installed on hub for new seal to seal against. Yes use a socket that matches the OD of the seal so you don't cave it in and carefully tap the seal into place after 1st lubing seal rubber lip. Sealant can also be applied to the od of seal to seal and help seal go into place. Bob

I'd just do a good splice job.

Probably best bet is to call the wrecking yards for some good original lines.. The truck most likely is too old for NOS dealer parts. Otherwise splice the bad parts with steel tube or hack it with high quality rubber hose.-or call a tranny shop and ask them about options? Is this a restoration of sorts or just a repair?

I wouldn't give up after all the efforts if it was mine! I'd get my trusty hot wrench out and carefully heat and let it cool a couple of times and take that darn plug out and throw it as far as I could! I must say I do a lot of welding so I know I could get er out as long as there is something to grab onto. If I was close by I'd do it for ya! Bob

Here is a real (maybe more like unreal) heck of a deal on a Ammco 1750 on E-Pay right now! They just get higher and higher it seems. Bob

Those 1946-8 Chrysler speedos are the biggest thorn in my neck too! The tripometer gears strip out and it then binds up. I have at least 10 speedos all with the same problem. I have a NOS one but it needs to be cleaned and re-lubed. All the numbers get out of wack-thats the clue your in for trouble with it! Speedo will work but the mileage numeral drums stop working correctly.Ply/Dodge and Plymouth's don't have this issue-they can be fixed easy. Never have heard from anyone with a c38/9 car who has sucessfully had one of these fixed 100%. Parts are just about non-existant for these speed heads. The gears that strip out are diecast too-big problem. Bob

My brother ran used 90 weight gear oil in a tired 1968 VW bug for over a year because of a real bad rear main seal leak and got t used 90 weight from a heavy equipment shop next to where he worked-never blew up till he got it fixed. Sure did stink too!

Not much to these MoPar 6 cyl piston clips. Here is a picture of a NOS factory 3-1/4"X.030" piston and clip installed. The factory clip is completely flat. Don't over compress them more than necessay when installing them. Bob

Fred, When old our MoPar cars were new and shipped from the factory the arrows were positioned as said earlier. Now you must understand all the shoe webs and shoe lining thicknesses/drum diameters were all at a set factory standard that the factory engineered for all the new cars. Also remember that the factory new drum diameters were all at the new spec's !0/11/or 12" no over sizes so that meant that the brake anchors would all be set the in the same positions as all new tolerances were the same from the factory in most all instances. A lot of the aftermarket supplied shoes/linings were not manufactured to the same exacting factory dimensions. Also the drums wore to a larger diameter or were machined to a larger diameter after complete brake overhauls. This is where it was necessary in a lot of cases to do both major and minor adjustments for a good firm/high pedal(for 100% customer satisfaction)-IF the proper tools were available! At times these tools weren't available at some repair shops. Another thing that usually isn't/wasn't done was to measure the drum diameter and then machine arc the shoes to match the drum diameter BEFORE doing a major adjustment. If the shoe radius doesn't match the drum diameter you can never get the full face of the brake lining to be centered/adjusted properly to fit the oversized drum with any of the ammco or miller tools! And yes, if the shoes aren't centered/adjusted to the drums, yes they will wear at the toe or heel prematurely-depending on lining thickness or drum over size diameter. Wouldn't worry bout that-Just check the shoe wear pattern after a few hundred miles to see were they are hitting and then adjust the anchors just a tad bit-all this for if you don't want to deal with making or buying the special brake tools. These double anchor Lockheed brakes don't automatically produce a hard pedal after a reline like all the more modern cars because the shoes are not free to float and center in the brake drums. Bob