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Dodgeb4ya

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Everything posted by Dodgeb4ya

  1. Dodgeb4ya
    Hand crank nut is a 1-11/16" or 1-13/16" socket size.
  2. Dodgeb4ya
    1951-3 Chrysler 331 Hemi's only had the integral 6" bell housing extensions. 1954 and later didn't and therefore are much more desirable. The chrysler hemi's are bigger than a DeSoto too- reason they weigh more. Bob
  3. Dodgeb4ya
    Look for something better. I wouldn't waste money on a chrome shop trying to redo a funky piece of pot metal. You'll find it on ebay. I've located almost all NOS 51-2 NeYorker NOS mint chrome through Ebay for my coupe-thats rare chrome too!
  4. Dodgeb4ya
    I shipped a set of those 16 spline axles in a piece of 4" PVC pipe. Woked great! 16 Spline are for 53 and later. Bob
  5. Dodgeb4ya
    All 4 are different part #'s. They will not interchange.
  6. Dodgeb4ya
    Probably the syncro teeth points are rounded off the input shaft-seen it many times-maybe mikes issue? And if so he'll need some more parts too.
  7. Dodgeb4ya
    Low oil, bad oil ,banging shifts when you are 16, drunk and not using the clutch, bad /loose input shaft bearing, mainshaft output nut loose at brake drum, weak detent springs in shift cover and or high mileage!
  8. Dodgeb4ya
    Mike, The front case should be stamped "PT" and the date next to the shift cover if it's a pin type trans. Pin types can wear out syncro's pretty bad and syncro gear teeth too. Parts can be hard to get for them .Your mechanic should be able to tell you what type you have. Your buddy Frank might have one. Bob
  9. Dodgeb4ya
    I looked for a long time-15 years to finally find a NP syncro 5-speed OD trans in a 1952 JA series 2-1/2 tonner dump bed truck. The OD's were made in both synco and non syncro versions. Here are pics of a standard syncro Non -OD case (no OD stamped at rear of case by drain plug) and a syncro OD trans ( OD stamped in rear of case) in my 1952 JA dump. Syncro transmission versions are not as heavy duty of a transmission as the non syncro tranny's. I plan to put the OD 5 speed in my 1 ton 52 pickup later and just put a regular 5 speed back in the dump. Here's some ID pics. Bob
  10. Dodgeb4ya
    Yep, Neil Riddle is the best! Bob
  11. Dodgeb4ya
    It's good that it's in eastern wash. because it will probably be pretty rust free! It's really hot and dry over there. Bob
  12. Dodgeb4ya
    It's in eastern washington 200 miles east of seattle.
  13. Dodgeb4ya
    Exhaust valve guides have the counter bore end always up.
  14. Dodgeb4ya
    Here are the tools available for valve/spring removal.
  15. Dodgeb4ya
    You probably should get the special side valve spring compressor tool to remove the valves and springs completely. Then with the lifters pulled up/and or the block upside down-so the lifters will fall away from the cam, then the cam will come out easily. It is possible to do it like you have tried but the valves have to be wedged up to the very limit and then keep twisting the cam around and back and forth-it should come out, but a lot of extra effort.
  16. Dodgeb4ya
    Thats a great car. As for your safe wheel chock-keep using it. The brake band can be adjusted tight and correct and you someday you might hear a pop-(the e-brake handle ratchet pawl just let loose) and away rolls the car! I'd use a wheel chock for peace of mind as you are doing. I have replaced the ratchet pawl and rack in one of my Chrysler cars but still don't trust these e-brake ratcht handles 100%. Have seen a couple other cars that got away-not a pretty sight-lotsa broken potmetal! Glad you joined in. A lot of good advice here too. Bob
  17. Dodgeb4ya
    Great economical nice lookin carpet job Fred! Did you do the back too? Bob
  18. Dodgeb4ya
    I installed a 265 Chrysler "Spitfire" engine in my 1952 PU in 1973. Had to move the radiator 2" forward on the yoke and used a Hot Wrench to reshape-not cut, the front of the frame where the front crank pulley assembly fits. You will also need a 1-1/2 ton or bigger truck oil pan and pickup With the dipstick in it-sump is in the front. Also the front frame rivited seam slightly hits the front of the pan sump-requires a slight bit of clearance rework there too.
  19. Dodgeb4ya
    Whoa-that was harsh!
  20. Dodgeb4ya
    Absolutely awesome! Love it!
  21. Dodgeb4ya
    A very common 2 door chrysler.
  22. Dodgeb4ya
    Is it a Six ? Looks like a Windsor front nose.
  23. Dodgeb4ya
    On a 50 DeSota, it's pretty tough just to get up in there-kinda like a 50 Chrysler.
  24. Dodgeb4ya
    I have a 1951 60 passenger Dodge bus with the 306 ci. big engine-229" WB. Built by "Paccar". Any Dodge bus is quite rare. Would like to see pictures of the bus in the salvage yard. Bob
  25. Dodgeb4ya
    The use of a copper backer bar held tight against the joint helps big time. Flux core wire is not the way to go either. Use of C25 gas /solid wire is your best bet-if your machine uses gas. Gas welding is the better way on a lot of sheet metal pin hole jobs as Tim said. I'm in the middle of one of these jobs on a 50 Chrysler right now.
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